Help me wire up my SUT correctly (Tamura TKS-27) - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 5th February 2013, 08:12 PM   #11
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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Good idea about adding duct seal around the KAB add-on weight and weighing the total. I guess I need to go buy a little digital scale.

I found an interesting DIY additional counterweight here --
DL103SA VS. SL1200: How I won the battle and lived happy (for a while) - The Art of Sound Forum. It's ugly, and it looks fiddly, but it looks like I could do it.

I found some specs and a price on the Jelco 750D here -- Jelco SA-750D 9" Tonearm | USA Hi-Fi. It looks like it still won't accept the 14.4g Soundsmith Gold without a little extra weight (stated maximum cartridge weight is 12g). I suppose 2g wouldn't be too difficult to put on there, somehow.

I think I might change my RIAA preamp's output stage to a cathode follower using a 6DJ8, instead of the common cathode 5687 it is now. That should give me a more 'standard' 40dB of total gain from the preamp. I didn't like it that the subjective level from my records was a couple of ticks lower than from the CD player, but I guess that's a small price to pay for being able to use the SUT in the system.

I have some work to do. Not today, though. Back to doing dishes!

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Old 5th February 2013, 11:42 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rongon View Post
I found some specs and a price on the Jelco 750D here -- Jelco SA-750D 9" Tonearm | USA Hi-Fi. It looks like it still won't accept the 14.4g Soundsmith Gold without a little extra weight (stated maximum cartridge weight is 12g). I suppose 2g wouldn't be too difficult to put on there, somehow.
You can get the 170g "heavyweight" c-weight for the 750D on ebay.

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I think I might change my RIAA preamp's output stage to a cathode follower using a 6DJ8, instead of the common cathode 5687 it is now. That should give me a more 'standard' 40dB of total gain from the preamp. I didn't like it that the subjective level from my records was a couple of ticks lower than from the CD player, but I guess that's a small price to pay for being able to use the SUT in the system.
Is this your design or a published circuit?

jeff
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Old 6th February 2013, 03:17 AM   #13
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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Ah, then the Jelco 750D will definitely work. Good to know. It wasn't hard to find articles on how to fit that arm onto the SL1200. The arm looks well made, and looks good on the turntable, sort of like it belongs there. I like that.

My preamp is a variation on the Arthur Loesch circuit published in a Sound Practices article from many years ago. SY and others helped me get it right, in this thread, starting here: Cathode Bias questions. The final schematic happened way after that, which I've attached. I call it the "Gutbucket" because it's in a really ugly steel chassis. I took a lot of suggestions from that thread, wound up with LED bias for the first two stages.

--
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File Type: jpg Gutbucket_phono_pre_09-2009.jpg (58.0 KB, 36 views)
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Old 6th February 2013, 04:53 PM   #14
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Ah, then the Jelco 750D will definitely work. Good to know. It wasn't hard to find articles on how to fit that arm onto the SL1200. The arm looks well made, and looks good on the turntable, sort of like it belongs there. I like that.
Many choose the 750D because it works so well with the low compliance DL-103/103R.

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My preamp is a variation on the Arthur Loesch circuit published in a Sound Practices article from many years ago.
Interesting, thanks.

jeff
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Old 6th February 2013, 04:59 PM   #15
rongon is offline rongon  United States
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I might have an easier way to get the gain lower in the preamp. I have a stash of 6J9P tubes, which I could use in the first stage instead of the 6J52P that's in there now. That should cut the gain in half, and let me use the transformers.

I think I can put together some kind of additional weight for the counterweight end of the arm. Maybe a bolt with the same threads as the KAB extra-weight, and some nuts to thread onto it.

Will take some experimenting, but should work...

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Old 6th February 2013, 05:29 PM   #16
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I think I can put together some kind of additional weight for the counterweight end of the arm. Maybe a bolt with the same threads as the KAB extra-weight, and some nuts to thread onto it.
It doesn't need to be pretty, it just has to work.

jeff
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