Im looking for an elegant solution to house a miniDSP, with control for source, and for volume..
I have found this maker of beautiful of passive pre amps. Who can make custom units.
www.akustyk.com - High Quality Passive Preamplifiers
My plan was to have three digital inputs, with a selector knob on the front.
With the DSP inside, would run into the miniDIGI board. power over usb.
Then to two volume control attenuator controlled by one master knob on the front.
Any thoughts? Would allow digital source selection, master volume control after the DA conversion. All in one handy small usb powered box.
I have found this maker of beautiful of passive pre amps. Who can make custom units.
www.akustyk.com - High Quality Passive Preamplifiers
My plan was to have three digital inputs, with a selector knob on the front.
With the DSP inside, would run into the miniDIGI board. power over usb.
Then to two volume control attenuator controlled by one master knob on the front.
Any thoughts? Would allow digital source selection, master volume control after the DA conversion. All in one handy small usb powered box.
Hi,
I´d ask the supplier, what kind of VC circuit is used, resp. how the output impedance of the VC behaves over volume setting.
If the output impedance is not low and constant, it won´t be a top solution as VC regardless of resistor image or quality other than for very short cable runs.
Other than that, looks the build quality rather basic, with all those visible and protruding screws and unscreened -not even primitively drilled- cablingm, in a non-screening casing and differing color of Frontplate and knobs. But then again the pricetag seems ok for the actual VC-device.
jauu
Calvin
I´d ask the supplier, what kind of VC circuit is used, resp. how the output impedance of the VC behaves over volume setting.
If the output impedance is not low and constant, it won´t be a top solution as VC regardless of resistor image or quality other than for very short cable runs.
Other than that, looks the build quality rather basic, with all those visible and protruding screws and unscreened -not even primitively drilled- cablingm, in a non-screening casing and differing color of Frontplate and knobs. But then again the pricetag seems ok for the actual VC-device.
jauu
Calvin
Hi,
VC stands short for Volume Control.
The Q wether or not the MiniDSP puts out enough signal voltage depends on the required input signal voltage level of the following device and rather not on the VC, assuming that the lowest attenuation -or insertion loss of the VC- stays close to 0dB/100%. The VC does nothing else but attenuate the input signal. Most amps or devices will require less than 2Vrms. Afaik the MiniDSP can put out either 0.9Vrms unbalanced or 2Vrms balanced. 2Vrms should be enough for all typical applications but 0.9Vrms might be a bit tight.
jauu
Calvin
VC stands short for Volume Control.
The Q wether or not the MiniDSP puts out enough signal voltage depends on the required input signal voltage level of the following device and rather not on the VC, assuming that the lowest attenuation -or insertion loss of the VC- stays close to 0dB/100%. The VC does nothing else but attenuate the input signal. Most amps or devices will require less than 2Vrms. Afaik the MiniDSP can put out either 0.9Vrms unbalanced or 2Vrms balanced. 2Vrms should be enough for all typical applications but 0.9Vrms might be a bit tight.
jauu
Calvin
I suggest you a proper & clean linear psu inside that box instead of usb power.
A 5V linear psu will not only provide power to miniDSP + miniDigi boards but could power a usb to i2s or spdif interface like M2tech Hiface as well.
So my suggestion is to use a little bigger box and leave some room for a future linear psu.
I am using a wooden enclosure in order to house the following:
miniDSP & miniDigi.
M2teach Hiface Two usb to coaxial interface.
2 x linear 5V psu's (one for dsp boards and the other for the Hiface)
I am also planing to include 4x buffer - gain stages in order to much the low output of minidsp 0,9V to my amps (input 1,5V sensitivity).
I am using the digital volume of miniDsp.
I am not very happy from the back side of my box, but i usually look at the front so it doesn't matter.
I believe that wooden enclosures sound better than aluminum.
miniDSP & miniDigi.
M2teach Hiface Two usb to coaxial interface.
2 x linear 5V psu's (one for dsp boards and the other for the Hiface)
I am also planing to include 4x buffer - gain stages in order to much the low output of minidsp 0,9V to my amps (input 1,5V sensitivity).
I am using the digital volume of miniDsp.
I am not very happy from the back side of my box, but i usually look at the front so it doesn't matter.
I believe that wooden enclosures sound better than aluminum.
Attachments
Update*
I have purchased a miniDSP 2x8, with the Vol-FP and Digi-FP.
This i'm hoping will work as a complete digital pre-amp/active XO with digital input selection, volume control.
I have a rather unique design for a case, I'm hoping to start putting it together soon after the dsp arrives. But made from solid oak and fumed oak.
I just need to buy a power supply...
I have purchased a miniDSP 2x8, with the Vol-FP and Digi-FP.
This i'm hoping will work as a complete digital pre-amp/active XO with digital input selection, volume control.
I have a rather unique design for a case, I'm hoping to start putting it together soon after the dsp arrives. But made from solid oak and fumed oak.
I just need to buy a power supply...
Here is the idea for the case.
A switching power supply in its on box.
2x8 in another, with top mounted turned volume control.
Oak and fumed Oak.
A switching power supply in its on box.
2x8 in another, with top mounted turned volume control.
Oak and fumed Oak.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If I am recalling correctly, I once asked the MiniDSP folks if the 4x10 could be used as a preamp. They told me that the front panel selector could be configured to switch between analog and digital sources, similar to a preamp.
Your 2x8 board is the same one that is in the 4x10 but you will need the volume control and the source selector unit (DIGI-FP? I forget the exact part number). You can control everything from one knob...
-Charlie
Your 2x8 board is the same one that is in the 4x10 but you will need the volume control and the source selector unit (DIGI-FP? I forget the exact part number). You can control everything from one knob...
-Charlie
Hello Charlie. I purchased it with the volume control and DIGI-FP, so yes it should work as a pre-amp (even has a learning remote inbuilt)
I searched for ages for a way to use the miniDSP with multiple inputs, I recently purchased a Rotel Pre and Power amp, just to use the analogue switching and volume control. I was keen on purchasing the Audiolab MDac again for the same reasons, but dropping £500+ on a product with which the DAC isn't used seemed silly.
Do hopfully for under £300 I have a pretty amazing product. Twinned with the mic I should be able to do room calibration.
I want to start commercially producing speakers, and the 2x8 allows me to have a few pairs or large 4ways rigged up.
I now have a spare 2x4 DSP, MiniDIGI and MiniAmp that I can allocate in my workshop for testing.
Just need a nice case for my 2x8, its bigger than I thought, and my old case idea might need adjusting.
Louis
I searched for ages for a way to use the miniDSP with multiple inputs, I recently purchased a Rotel Pre and Power amp, just to use the analogue switching and volume control. I was keen on purchasing the Audiolab MDac again for the same reasons, but dropping £500+ on a product with which the DAC isn't used seemed silly.
Do hopfully for under £300 I have a pretty amazing product. Twinned with the mic I should be able to do room calibration.
I want to start commercially producing speakers, and the 2x8 allows me to have a few pairs or large 4ways rigged up.
I now have a spare 2x4 DSP, MiniDIGI and MiniAmp that I can allocate in my workshop for testing.
Just need a nice case for my 2x8, its bigger than I thought, and my old case idea might need adjusting.
Louis
Dear all,
I used to have a preamp in a wooden box, and the hum was not objectionable, until I got rid of hum from the rest of the system. I would still make a preamp box out of wood, as it looks nice
I would never condenser a wooden box finished if it did not have shielding, as I coudl now listen for the hum and not expect it to be present. I suggest Aluminium foil stuck with PVA around the inside, of your boxes.
If you have come to like having non conductive containers, you could cover again with paper, after the first layer dries
Regards
Owen
I used to have a preamp in a wooden box, and the hum was not objectionable, until I got rid of hum from the rest of the system. I would still make a preamp box out of wood, as it looks nice
I would never condenser a wooden box finished if it did not have shielding, as I coudl now listen for the hum and not expect it to be present. I suggest Aluminium foil stuck with PVA around the inside, of your boxes.
If you have come to like having non conductive containers, you could cover again with paper, after the first layer dries
Regards
Owen
*Update,
Finally found ten minutes to machine down and cut to size some really figured American Black walnut. And now I have a 8 channel power amp, I can fully utilise the DSP.
The plan is to make a simple box, with through dovetailed joints, and a turned walnut control knob. I have some slate I would like to use for the top, not sure how to cut it though!? And have some sheets of copper which would make a amazing top with good shielding.
Trying to work out the best way to isolate the power supply from the board, do you think having a simple division of wood wrapped in some foil is enough? I could have a slice of copper going across, or fold it around the psu.
Ideas most welcome.
Finally found ten minutes to machine down and cut to size some really figured American Black walnut. And now I have a 8 channel power amp, I can fully utilise the DSP.
The plan is to make a simple box, with through dovetailed joints, and a turned walnut control knob. I have some slate I would like to use for the top, not sure how to cut it though!? And have some sheets of copper which would make a amazing top with good shielding.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Trying to work out the best way to isolate the power supply from the board, do you think having a simple division of wood wrapped in some foil is enough? I could have a slice of copper going across, or fold it around the psu.
Ideas most welcome.
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