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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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First a brief history:
I started to build a 3 band Equalizer using NE5532 as per this website. 3 band EQ First I tested the second part of the circuit on a breadboard and it worked as expected. ( attachment: graphic eq on bread board.jpg ) Then I made a quick PCB and built it. Upon first power up it worked nicely but I found 2 problems 1. after some 10 seconds the sound started to spark 2. and gain reduced. I touched my fingers at the input and it became normal again for another 10 seconds. I added a 100k bypass Resistor infront of the 10uf/63v Electrolytic cap like this below in the input and the problem was solved! (Kindly see the attachment EQ FIX 1.png ) After some days I replaced the electrolytic input caps with a bigger nonpolar 10UF/100v caps. I found the sound was improved . I was happy. But after some 5 minutes the previous problem reappeared. i.e gain reduced and sparking noise. I monitored the voltage ... +-15v okay, no over heating of the ICs, No pcb foil line is damaged. I tried my best to solve that but alas... As a last resort I had to use the electrolytic caps again with the 100k biasing resistor. Could please help me fix this problem so that I can use the bigger caps instead of the el-caps? eq question how to solve .jpg Thank you, Best regards, Som.
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Warm regards, Som Last edited by csom; 14th December 2012 at 09:37 AM. |
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#2 |
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Owner and operator of irc.tenettenba.info
diyAudio Member
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sounds like an earthing issue to me, possibly a ground loop issue.
Reason for thinking this is that you touched the input with your fingers and that fixed it. Get some perfboard and put the project onto that.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Dorset, UK
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The positive input to the 5532 needs a resistance to earth to give it a reference. Move the top of R15 to the junction of C1 & R1.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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Thank you freax.
I am lost as the el-caps are working perfectly with the 100k resistor but the bigger nonpolar ones ( which are dramatically improving the performance) fail. I checked the ground continuity too. No problem there .
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Warm regards, Som |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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Quote:
Is the gain of that buffer stage 2? If yes can I use a 47k instead of that 100k ?
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Warm regards, Som |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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That was the second thing I did Freax It worked okay . Although the buffer stage was not there. Its the buffer stage that's the culprit here.
Here is the pic
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Warm regards, Som Last edited by csom; 14th December 2012 at 10:11 AM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Your schematic does not correspond to original.
Original shows an inverting opamp config. You enter into + input. when this one should be grounded. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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Quote:
Thank you so much bobo for pointing out that! Re-designing the PCB now! Sigh!
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Warm regards, Som Last edited by csom; 14th December 2012 at 10:19 AM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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Fixed the prototype. No more sparking or gradual gain reduction now.
Improvement: Noise is minimized to a great extent. But the stereo image/ sound stage is reduced. weird. Earlier it was better. Could you please suggest what can be done to increase Stereo image ? Regards, Som.
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Warm regards, Som |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: India
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Problem solved! One of the pots ( midrange 100k ) had a dry solder joint.
All fixed now! Sound stage restored again ! Working great now! Thank you all! If any newcomer, hobbyist ,like me, wants a quick, simple yet very effective Equalizer solution and add it to your DIY amp, please go ahead and give it a try, you will be surprised to see its performance. ![]() Regards, Som
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Warm regards, Som Last edited by csom; 14th December 2012 at 05:07 PM. |
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