I want to add an IR remote volume controller to my tube amp (C3g+6C4C). There are a lot of circuits based on microcontrollers (AVRs, PICs, '51s etc.), but I have found 0 (zero) pure analog ones. Are there any special funtion IC, e.g. RC5 decoders, or discrete solution I can utilise to control an Alps RK168 series potentiometer?
I use the TA7630AP (also TDA 1524a) which are pure analog and would like to make it remote controlled but I know nothing about pics. The chip's volume, bass etc. is controlled by a 0-5v variable voltage on their pins and I was wondering if one could use a microcontroller to vary the voltage on these pins?
http://novelbooks.weebly.com/camm-equitone-preamplifier.html
Last edited:
Well, I would want it to obviously use a tv or similar remote control, maybe have a learning ability and would control 4 lines: Volume, bass, treble and balance. It must have mute, fade in fade out and have a preset switch on volume. But as I mentioned don't know the programming side of things, but must say my pre amp is a great sounding one.
Will it be that difficult? I'm sure the guys who write pic programs will be able to write a program that will take the remote controls input, say for volume, and output it as a voltage on the relevent pin.
http://novelbooks.weebly.com/camm-equitone-preamplifier.html
Hi there. Stumbled across this old thread you started and wanted to ask why you're trying to avoid a uC based IR remote volume controller? Are you concerned about noise?
I've personally developed a preamp controller product that utilizes a uC to handle IR remote decoding as well as other things on a DIY preamp board as well as fully integrated preamp product. They happen to utilize LDRs (light dependent resistors) so the audio signal and control signals are both electrically and optically isolated. Noise has not been an issue.
Having built a uC based IR decoder I had to get intimately familiar with the details of how IR signals work and how to detect and decode them. While I'm no analog circuit design maven I can't imagine doing this in a purely analog fashion. It requires a precise timer and interrupt driven logic. Even a specialized IC will still be essentially a digital device - a specialized uC if you will.
Best,
Morten
Hi,
I think you can use the TA7330P by using Digital Potentiometer for each control and a micro. The only problem it is finding the right digital potentiometer that match your control resistor. Analog device have some but they are increment of 5K,10K,50K 100K. The micro can read the remote code and then adjust each potentiometer. I do not think it is to hard to built.
I think you can use the TA7330P by using Digital Potentiometer for each control and a micro. The only problem it is finding the right digital potentiometer that match your control resistor. Analog device have some but they are increment of 5K,10K,50K 100K. The micro can read the remote code and then adjust each potentiometer. I do not think it is to hard to built.
You'd have to build your own remote, too - wouldn't you?
How about something based on the method used for RC cars and planes? At least in the old days they just used a carrier and varied the phase of a pulse. That should be easy enough to adapt to IR. Or maybe just use the RF control and receiver along with some model servos.
How about something based on the method used for RC cars and planes? At least in the old days they just used a carrier and varied the phase of a pulse. That should be easy enough to adapt to IR. Or maybe just use the RF control and receiver along with some model servos.
You can do it all analog, but it won't be the cheapest way.
- Build a simple IR remote control that generates two different frequencies. Modulate them onto a standard 38 KHz carrier. For example, it might emit a 1 KHz signal for volume up and 2.5 KHz for volume down.
- Use a standard IR receiver chip. Couple the output to two tuned filters, one for 1 KHz and one for 2.5 KHz.
- Use the filter outputs to drive an H bridge connected to the pot motor.
This is the same scheme as used by some cheap radio-controlled toys. In fact, you could probably use the electronics from one and wire the receiver's motor drive outputs to the pot motor...
If you do this, you can remove the transmitter's circuit board and mount it in a more stylish case. You won't need an external aerial for short ranges. When shopping for one, look for one without a separate on/off switch on the transmitter. This type only powers the transmitter when a button is pushed. Some of the ones with on/off switches run the transmitter continuously and will discharge the battery if left on. (Some have the switch but do not transmit contiuously, but you can't easily tell without disassembling it.)
- Build a simple IR remote control that generates two different frequencies. Modulate them onto a standard 38 KHz carrier. For example, it might emit a 1 KHz signal for volume up and 2.5 KHz for volume down.
- Use a standard IR receiver chip. Couple the output to two tuned filters, one for 1 KHz and one for 2.5 KHz.
- Use the filter outputs to drive an H bridge connected to the pot motor.
This is the same scheme as used by some cheap radio-controlled toys. In fact, you could probably use the electronics from one and wire the receiver's motor drive outputs to the pot motor...
If you do this, you can remove the transmitter's circuit board and mount it in a more stylish case. You won't need an external aerial for short ranges. When shopping for one, look for one without a separate on/off switch on the transmitter. This type only powers the transmitter when a button is pushed. Some of the ones with on/off switches run the transmitter continuously and will discharge the battery if left on. (Some have the switch but do not transmit contiuously, but you can't easily tell without disassembling it.)
Last edited:
How about DTMF? Telephone tones. The chips are cheap and easy to find. 10 functions.
Or maybe one of the early, crude TV methods. A photo-cell at each corner of the chassis. Depending on which one you hit with light, volume would go up or down. You could use a laser pointer to hit the target.
I've been able to turn off streetlights with a laser pointer, you should have no trouble.
Or maybe one of the early, crude TV methods. A photo-cell at each corner of the chassis. Depending on which one you hit with light, volume would go up or down. You could use a laser pointer to hit the target.
I've been able to turn off streetlights with a laser pointer, you should have no trouble.- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.