If I were you, I would try it out and see whether it is a good device or not.
I believe also some good high end manufacturers uses this fine volume control, including Pass Labs.
I don't think these people are fools that would put a junk controller on their finest designs.
Bob Katz measured Muses THD <0.002%, including the rest of his pre-amp
Katz's Corner Episode 8: My Current Affair | InnerFidelity
Katz's Corner Episode 8: My Current Affair | InnerFidelity
Found an interesting comparison here for a tkd stepped vs an academy muse board
scroll down to amusing the masses
tkd stepped versus muse
And for those who want measurements, see this one (the tkd won in measurements btw)
measurements
scroll down to amusing the masses
tkd stepped versus muse
And for those who want measurements, see this one (the tkd won in measurements btw)
measurements
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Hi,
here you can find some pictures of avaible muses boards
Muses 72320 Volume Attenuator - Phono - Restaurierung und Selbstbau - Analogue Audio Association
here you can find some pictures of avaible muses boards
Muses 72320 Volume Attenuator - Phono - Restaurierung und Selbstbau - Analogue Audio Association
Too bad there isn't another member here who's willingly to take meldano's boards and populate them with all those nasty, hard-to-solder SMDs then sell them to folks like myself who aren't interested in soldering SMDs but want a MUSES 72320 volume control system for a reasonable price.
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Too bad there isn't another member here who's willingly to take meldano's boards and populate them with all those nasty, hard-to-solder SMDs then sell them to folks like myself who aren't interested in soldering SMDs but want a MUSES 72320 volume control system for a reasonable price.
Well if you want something with a wider lead spacing, you could go with the DS1882 it's still surface mount but it's SOIC-16 which has a 0.05 lead spacing that's only half of what a DIP chip would be. It's much cheaper ($1.76) available from Mouser and Digi-key. It's used in the lower end Pass Labs products like the XP-10, XP-20, and INT-60. And the input impedance is higher (45K ohms). Most people agree that the MUSES72320 sound slightly better in fact the replacement to the XP-10 the XP-12 will replace the DS1882 with the MUSES72320. However the XP-10, XP-20, and INT-60 still I am sure made the Stereophile super excellent list and will all be classics. The attenuation is only 0dB to -62dB in 1dB steps. Just like the MUSES there are no built in Op-Amps.
First THANK'S to meldano. I bought some of his PCB and programmed controller. Took some time to get the parts (especially the MUSES72320)...SMD soldering is OK (except some 805 resistors I never found again ) .... and the kit worked from the beginning perfect. I would say a new dimension of a type of preamp. I run the kit with the Power Amp Hypex NC400 or a AVM8000 clone, directly from my Pioneer Bdp LX88. No additional buffer or amplification necessary. Crystal clear , no harsh, you feel each movement of the bass drum and the spatial resolution is great. No more experiments which concept is the best, no more matching of transistors... Remote programming was easy and it works perfect. With some luck a friend brought me the Japanese MUSES kit from akizukidenshi.com. Much easier to solder, there were all SMD parts presoldiered. The ideal base to check out how the different OP Amps can sound... till now I can say that no opamp is the best choose. The only missing link is a remote input selector balanced. Maybe someone can help.
) .... and the kit worked from the beginning perfect. I would say a new dimension of a type of preamp. I run the kit with the Power Amp Hypex NC400 or a AVM8000 clone, directly from my Pioneer Bdp LX88. No additional buffer or amplification necessary. Crystal clear , no harsh, you feel each movement of the bass drum and the spatial resolution is great. No more experiments which concept is the best, no more matching of transistors... Remote programming was easy and it works perfect. With some luck a friend brought me the Japanese MUSES kit from akizukidenshi.com. Much easier to solder, there were all SMD parts presoldiered. The ideal base to check out how the different OP Amps can sound... till now I can say that no opamp is the best choose. The only missing link is a remote input selector balanced. Maybe someone can help.
I assembled a few 72320 volume control kits from akizukidenshi.com but all of them went into trouble now.
The first one get into problem (please refer to #348 of this thread), add a bit of soldering work and the problem disappeared. However the popping sound returns and this time; no matter how I solder and desolder the decoder, the pops remain there.
The second one went into trouble recently. It generates some high pitch ringing noise. I took out the decoder and connect to the PCB with extension leads, the ringing reduced but it is still there. I changed it to an ALPS VR and the noise is gone. Can anyone give me a clue on what is the problem with this? If you look at the schematic, there are two 10pf caps C1 and C2 in the circuit (refer to thread #353), what is it for? Can I increase the capacitance to cut out the ringing?
The first one get into problem (please refer to #348 of this thread), add a bit of soldering work and the problem disappeared. However the popping sound returns and this time; no matter how I solder and desolder the decoder, the pops remain there.
The second one went into trouble recently. It generates some high pitch ringing noise. I took out the decoder and connect to the PCB with extension leads, the ringing reduced but it is still there. I changed it to an ALPS VR and the noise is gone. Can anyone give me a clue on what is the problem with this? If you look at the schematic, there are two 10pf caps C1 and C2 in the circuit (refer to thread #353), what is it for? Can I increase the capacitance to cut out the ringing?
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I did not change any value of the kit except swapped the 10pf caps to silver mica and the input 33R from 1/4W metal film to larger AMRG 3/4W made by Japan Amtrans.
Do you mean I have to trace the lines from input to output by the oscilloscope?
What is the function of the 10pF caps? Does this control ringing?
Do you mean I have to trace the lines from input to output by the oscilloscope?
What is the function of the 10pF caps? Does this control ringing?