Hi , I bought the NE5534N opamp . from here
Find 2pcs NE5534N Dual Low Noise OP Amplifier IC m on eBay Global Buying, with worldwide deals on items in all your top categories
Now just to be sure , is this opamp is dual ? can you find me the datashit ?
i found data **** for the 5543 which is single . but for the 5543N which is dual i can found ?
i want to build a simple active stereo preamp I will be glad if you recommend for me a nice schema for that .
thanks and have a nice day
EDIT : ok now i see that the 5534 is a single opamp .
can some one give me a draw of nice preamp design for this opamp ?
Find 2pcs NE5534N Dual Low Noise OP Amplifier IC m on eBay Global Buying, with worldwide deals on items in all your top categories
Now just to be sure , is this opamp is dual ? can you find me the datashit ?
i found data **** for the 5543 which is single . but for the 5543N which is dual i can found ?
i want to build a simple active stereo preamp I will be glad if you recommend for me a nice schema for that .
thanks and have a nice day
EDIT : ok now i see that the 5534 is a single opamp .
can some one give me a draw of nice preamp design for this opamp ?
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There are some who would disagree, but in my opinion the NE5534A is an excellent value for experimenting in general audio applications. You'll have to spend a lot more to get significantly improved performance in most applications; usually there will be other factors (besides the choice of opamp) limiting the overall circuit performance.
There are several basic preamp projects shown on Rod Elliot's "ESP Project Pages" at < http://sound.westhost.com/projects-2.htm >. I haven't actually built any of these specific circuits, but they are quite similar to other circuits I HAVE successfully built. In general, the NE5534 should work in any of his circuits, though you will have to add a compensation capacitor between pin 5 and pin 8 to make sure the '5534 behaves nicely at the low gain levels used in Elliot's circuits.
(A capacitor value of 22 pF should be quite acceptable in any of the circuits shown; lower values down to 10 - 12 pF may give measurable improvements in bandwidth and transient response. No additional capacitance should be necessary if you modify Elliot's circuits for gains of 3 or more.)
I'm sure that if you seed the DIYAudio "Search" function with "NE5534" or "NE5534A" you will uncover MANY other designs specifically using those chips.
Dale
There are several basic preamp projects shown on Rod Elliot's "ESP Project Pages" at < http://sound.westhost.com/projects-2.htm >. I haven't actually built any of these specific circuits, but they are quite similar to other circuits I HAVE successfully built. In general, the NE5534 should work in any of his circuits, though you will have to add a compensation capacitor between pin 5 and pin 8 to make sure the '5534 behaves nicely at the low gain levels used in Elliot's circuits.
(A capacitor value of 22 pF should be quite acceptable in any of the circuits shown; lower values down to 10 - 12 pF may give measurable improvements in bandwidth and transient response. No additional capacitance should be necessary if you modify Elliot's circuits for gains of 3 or more.)
I'm sure that if you seed the DIYAudio "Search" function with "NE5534" or "NE5534A" you will uncover MANY other designs specifically using those chips.
Dale
It needs dual power supply +15V -15V and you are using single.It does not work this way.
If you want to use single supply you need to create a "virtual ground" between +15V and 0V or Ground.
Your circuit, as drawn is getting there, but the signals you're inputting swing +ve and -ve with respect to ground (0v). If the op-amp doesn't have a -ve voltage supply it can't produce an output that's -ve.
There are two possible solutions to this:
Either provide twin rail power supplies, ie a +ve and a -ve, say 10-15v +ve, on pin 7, and 10-15v -ve on pin 4. Not too much, the Texas Instruments 5534 can only take +/- 20v, ie a total of 40v, dc max, and when you rectify ac to dc, its voltage can end up higher.
Or, keep the single +ve power rail, and let the signals going through the op amp swing around a point half way between V+ and 0v. You could do this by adding another two 100k resistors, one to each channel, from the junction of the input capacitor, the 100k resistor and the 1k resistor to the +ve supply.
Unfortunately though it seems that you have a more serious problem to deal with first.
If you're feeding the chips what ought to be +20v, to pin 7, and what you actually measure is 0v dc and 1.5v ac, then something is definitely very wrong. I think you need to disconnect your power supply from the preamp, and see if it's working ok - what are you using to provide power?
It's clear that you're quite inexperienced. We all were once, though mostly we like to forget about the sort of frustrations we suffered through ignorance and bad soldering. There are quite a few things you could be doing wrong and because you don't know what to look for, it's frustrating for people on here who might help you, so keep your brain plugged in, think about it, try to provide as much relevant information as you can when you do ask a question. Try to read around the subject, with the net you have a big library to look in.
There are two possible solutions to this:
Either provide twin rail power supplies, ie a +ve and a -ve, say 10-15v +ve, on pin 7, and 10-15v -ve on pin 4. Not too much, the Texas Instruments 5534 can only take +/- 20v, ie a total of 40v, dc max, and when you rectify ac to dc, its voltage can end up higher.
Or, keep the single +ve power rail, and let the signals going through the op amp swing around a point half way between V+ and 0v. You could do this by adding another two 100k resistors, one to each channel, from the junction of the input capacitor, the 100k resistor and the 1k resistor to the +ve supply.
Unfortunately though it seems that you have a more serious problem to deal with first.
If you're feeding the chips what ought to be +20v, to pin 7, and what you actually measure is 0v dc and 1.5v ac, then something is definitely very wrong. I think you need to disconnect your power supply from the preamp, and see if it's working ok - what are you using to provide power?
It's clear that you're quite inexperienced. We all were once, though mostly we like to forget about the sort of frustrations we suffered through ignorance and bad soldering. There are quite a few things you could be doing wrong and because you don't know what to look for, it's frustrating for people on here who might help you, so keep your brain plugged in, think about it, try to provide as much relevant information as you can when you do ask a question. Try to read around the subject, with the net you have a big library to look in.
then,
for a non-inverting topology the ratio of the feedback resistors should be 4 to 1, i.e. 39k & 10k gives X4.9 and Rin = 39k
If you use inverting topology then the feedback resistor ratio should be 5 to 1, i.e. 51k & 10k gives X5.1 and Rin = 10k
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I should think it would do, though I can't see that he said that he'd done that. Some of them at least are on thin ice when fed 44v as opposed to 40v - think about it, and don't take the p*** too much - pride cometh before a fall, as I never stop finding out myself
And please, pretty please, let him get the thing working a bit before we try to get his gain up from 4 to 5 - first things first!
Simon, I don't know who you are directing all that diatribe at, but it seems to me to be inappropriate.
The schematic shows all those PINs tied to -ve rail.
I don't know the answer to my question and that is why I asked. I have probably read or been told the answer, but I don't remember. That is why I led in with "remind me".
The schematic shows all those PINs tied to -ve rail.
I don't know the answer to my question and that is why I asked. I have probably read or been told the answer, but I don't remember. That is why I led in with "remind me".
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Ah relax Andrew - come on! Diatribe? Nah!
You might possibly be right about the output being shorted to ground, I was hoping he saw those "100k straight lines" as resistors, not wire links - maybe a bit over optimistic of me!
The inputs look ok to me though, not tied to ground at all! I hope we're looking at the same schematic....hand drawn, bit feint and blurry?
there is only one schematic.
A quick mental arithmetic on the 3 PINs gives me about 500mV on +IN and 500mV on -IN and this results in about 1500mV on OUT.
That confirms all these PINs are tied to -ve rail.
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