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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Yes, either a dry joint or a crack in a PCB trace. If you are using modern lead-free solder then I understand that dry joints and good joints can look identical (I always use the old 'poisonous' solder). If you showed us the circuit we could probably tell you where to look for the problem.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: North-East England
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I'd look for an op amp input fed by a capacitor, that also has a resistor to ground, or to some other circuit node that direct current can flow out of.
If that resistor is not properly connected, the small bias current flowing out of the op-amp input charges up the capacitor and hey presto, the very fault you describe. Probably, learn to solder properly, you've got a dry joint at the end of a resistor. Before you fix it, look at it, see how it looks different from good joints. As DF96 says (and I paraphrase a little) "use proper solder". As DF96 also says, possibly a crack in a pcb trace. They can be very fine indeed and still be an open circuit. But my money's on a dry joint. Last edited by Simon B; 15th April 2012 at 10:33 PM. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Cracks in PCB traces can be obviated by tinning all of the PCB tracks with solder, but doesn't work that well for high current tracks. rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I couldn't find any obvious bad joints, but I "untangled" some blobs where lots of leads met. On the third one the buildup disappeared, and the output is DC-free!
![]() Thanks a lot to everyone, and especially to Simon B. I went untangling the capacitor junctions first. The troubled capacitor was closer to the output, but was a part of the feedback loop. It's the rightmost C2 in the schematic attached. There are 'before' and 'after' pictures, if anyone's interested. DF96, sorry for misleading, but I didn't realize at the time. As you can see, the before picture doesn't have obvious 'bad' joints, just lots of evil blobby ones. Guess I underestimated their evilness. My next project will be adding a high pass filter before the Linkwitz Transform. My speakers have Visaton W170S woofers, and the LT extends them to Q=0.7 and F3=30Hz. They don't do 30Hz like I expected. Distortion is bad, and cone movement is scary with anything except music. My room needs less deep bass anyway. Going to use a 1st order high pass at 50Hz. If I mess that up, I'm gonna end up with a flat forehead, from a wall.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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My bad, the affected capacitor is C3, not C2.
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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As I said:
Quote:
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