Selector switch - replacement - shielded wire?

[Ecaroh]

I'm replacing the selector switch on my Arcam Delta 290 integrated. Failures of this remote-controlled Alps switch are well documented on the Web.

Pretty straightforward, I have a nice small Grayhill switch that will fit. Wires will travel two inches or less for one channel, an extra inch for the other channel, crossing over those for the first one. Connecting into the pinouts for the old, board-mounted switch.

I’ve seen plenty of selector-switch wiring without shielding but have seen various recommendations to the contrary for build-your-own preamps.

Option A: no shielding

Option B: I have some shielded, six-lead wire, and I could use a length of this for each channel's inputs, running the board end of the shield to a convenient ground, and using another length of shielded for the switch's out. This could help isolate the channels from each other.

Option C: Run separate shielded wires, or twisted pair, for each input, and run all shields to ground at board end. Pretty cumbersome, with 14 shields requiring connection to ground. But this would isolate all sources from each other.

So it seems like it's Option A or Option B. What do knowledgeable people suggest? Thanks.

[DF96]

You might get away with a couple of inches unshielded, provided you are inside a grounded metal case and nowhere near any internal power wiring. Don't do option B, as that might give you crosstalk between inputs.

You could try some unshielded, using your source with the highest output impedance (as this is where any trouble is likely to be worst). If OK, then do the rest.

[AndrewT]

Does the selector switch only the Hot signal connection, or does it switch both the Hot and Return signal connection?

[Ecaroh]

Originally Posted by AndrewT

Does the selector switch only the Hot signal connection, or does it switch both the Hot and Return signal connection?

The old switch, and the board, only do the hot (diagram attached - SW202).

Thanks for replies so far.