Behringer CX2310 Toroid wiring

[anilva]

I am trying to rewire a Behringer CX2310 from 110V supply input to 230V supply input.

The toroid in the CX2310 has a black, blue and red wires on the primary side. Presently the unit is wired with black and blue for 110V AC supply and the red wire is insulated and tucked away in a corner.

My suspicion is that the red wire on the toroid is for making the unit into a 230V AC input unit. The secondaries are yellow-brown-yellow.

Can anyone confirm if my assumption regarding the 230V tap on the toroid is correct?


TIA.

[Cloth Ears]

Can't confirm it, but the manual says there's 4 models (120V/60Hz, 240V/50Hz, 230V/50Hz and a general purpose - which I would assume was switchable between 2 of the above). Possibly they use the same toroid in all, or, possibly the blue is the +120 and the black is the 0 and the red is the -120.
You can always try Behringer, although they may balk at giving you instructions on how to modify their equipment. Then again, if you just ask about their toroid as if you're trying to replace it, they may give the the advice you're seeking. They've been helpful before when I've asked them questions about my stuff (not to modify, you understand).
Good Luck!

[Andy5112405]

With the transformer powered up with 110V across BLACK and BLUE, measure the AC voltage between the RED and the BLACK and the RED and the BLUE.

If either combination gives you 240V then those are the connections for 240V.

[anilva]

Originally Posted by Cloth Ears

Can't confirm it, but the manual says there's 4 models (120V/60Hz, 240V/50Hz, 230V/50Hz and a general purpose - which I would assume was switchable between 2 of the above). Possibly they use the same toroid in all, or, possibly the blue is the +120 and the black is the 0 and the red is the -120.
You can always try Behringer, although they may balk at giving you instructions on how to modify their equipment. Then again, if you just ask about their toroid as if you're trying to replace it, they may give the the advice you're seeking. They've been helpful before when I've asked them questions about my stuff (not to modify, you understand).
Good Luck!

Thanks.

[anilva]

Originally Posted by Cloth Ears

Can't confirm it, but the manual says there's 4 models (120V/60Hz, 240V/50Hz, 230V/50Hz and a general purpose - which I would assume was switchable between 2 of the above). Possibly they use the same toroid in all, or, possibly the blue is the +120 and the black is the 0 and the red is the -120.
You can always try Behringer, although they may balk at giving you instructions on how to modify their equipment. Then again, if you just ask about their toroid as if you're trying to replace it, they may give the the advice you're seeking. They've been helpful before when I've asked them questions about my stuff (not to modify, you understand).
Good Luck!

Originally Posted by Andy5112405

With the transformer powered up with 110V across BLACK and BLUE, measure the AC voltage between the RED and the BLACK and the RED and the BLUE.

If either combination gives you 240V then those are the connections for 240V.

Great idea. Thanks. Why didn't it occur to me?

[anilva]

Thanks to everyone. Managed to change the primary connections from black-blue to black-red and the unit now works on 230V instead of 110V. I can throw the step down transformer away and some hum along with it.

Another interesting point is that the unit was picking up a lot of ground hum at the inputs. Tried different things but didn't work. Finally removed the signal ground connection from the chassis/power ground and the hum is gone now. Electrically the unit is still pretty safe since the chassis is still connected to power ground earth and no risks of electrical shock.