That is the one I will use as well (as soon as I sell some stuff to build up Paypal balance).
The diyGENE.com R-Core is basically half the price of the SumR toriod.. That would be nice to pay half if the R-Core unit is equal or superior to the SumR toroid. I need to do some research and learn which unit would be best for this application. I have already put so much $$ into my build, i don't want to cut any corners at this point.
Tweaks
Although there must be a lot of subjectivity in tweaks of an alredy almost perfect product atleast I would appreciate to know what changes to the original components and settings that people appreciate, hear differences in etc and how the tweaks is or seems to affect the original.
I guess it will most have to do with signal resistors, bypass caps and current settings.
Any artistic descriptions is welcome
I had to jump to other stuff last weeks but my separate PSU version 0.1 is taking shape and the boards are stuffed with 8,2 and 10R settings resistors. Im also making a dummy chassie (some clamped plates and the sinks in general).
Best regards
Staffan
Although there must be a lot of subjectivity in tweaks of an alredy almost perfect product atleast I would appreciate to know what changes to the original components and settings that people appreciate, hear differences in etc and how the tweaks is or seems to affect the original.
I guess it will most have to do with signal resistors, bypass caps and current settings.
Any artistic descriptions is welcome
I had to jump to other stuff last weeks but my separate PSU version 0.1 is taking shape and the boards are stuffed with 8,2 and 10R settings resistors. Im also making a dummy chassie (some clamped plates and the sinks in general).
Best regards
Staffan
Turn the whole assembly upside down, the transistors won't mind.
The PCB will now be under the sink and run cooler.
The sink fins will now be pointing upward and thus dissipate more heat for a lower Ts.
The components on the pcb will now be in the coolest air.
Three gains and no downsides.
diyGENE.com R-Core - The shipping to the US to MN for me was about 30 bucks... So keep the shipping in mind..
I've read this forum on and off for a while and I've read a couple posts on people using the diyGENE RCores and say good things. Some running the 50VA ones and others running the 100VA ones. I thoght RCores were the most recent technology and best... I'd guess a high end toroid VS this RCORE is not really a comprimise either way.
I'm going high end parts too... Texas Componenets, Caddock,
I thinking Mundorf Silver in Oil on the.47 caps on the board?
I've read this forum on and off for a while and I've read a couple posts on people using the diyGENE RCores and say good things. Some running the 50VA ones and others running the 100VA ones. I thoght RCores were the most recent technology and best... I'd guess a high end toroid VS this RCORE is not really a comprimise either way.
I'm going high end parts too... Texas Componenets, Caddock,
I thinking Mundorf Silver in Oil on the.47 caps on the board?
In post 2260 AndrewT provides very useful info on transformer selection. At 600mA you need a 36VA transformer minimum. 50VA will run cooler, but Andrew recommends double the required VA or 72VA. Since these are hard to find, I will go 100VA to keep temps as low as possible.
My research said that a very good toroid is as good as an rCore.
U
Shipping is a big part of the cost (they are heavy after all).
This the quote I got on the sumR:
The transformer 100VA ,
a/ with an electrostatic screen and core band is Cdn $ 74/e
b/ Above shielded and totally encapsulated into toroid container is Cdn $ 85/e
Shipping extra. CDN$ are at par with US$ for some time now.
For the 100VA, Antek is $18, $21.60 shielded. Shipping is only $12 in the US, but Canada/Mexico is $43 and International is $63.
DIY Gene is $46 + $38 shipping from Hong Kong.
Shipping is a big part of the cost (they are heavy after all).
This the quote I got on the sumR:
The transformer 100VA ,
a/ with an electrostatic screen and core band is Cdn $ 74/e
b/ Above shielded and totally encapsulated into toroid container is Cdn $ 85/e
Shipping extra. CDN$ are at par with US$ for some time now.
For the 100VA, Antek is $18, $21.60 shielded. Shipping is only $12 in the US, but Canada/Mexico is $43 and International is $63.
DIY Gene is $46 + $38 shipping from Hong Kong.
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DIY Gene is $46 + $38 shipping from Hong Kong is the exact same charge I got shipping to MN, USA for the 100VA Model: R80-53 which I think is the right one to get.
I think the .22uF is correct. I’ll go with that. I am just building a pure buffer. No attenuator.. Just one input pair of RCAs direct to the DCB1 and then direct out to the output RCAs.
I think the .22uF is correct. I’ll go with that. I am just building a pure buffer. No attenuator.. Just one input pair of RCAs direct to the DCB1 and then direct out to the output RCAs.
Assuming you mean the rCore, shipping is $60 for 2 (vs. $38). Helps a bit, but only saves $8 each. May be worth it if a re-ship isn't necessary.
madisonroberts is running caddock on the power supply caps..with some nice looking heat sink. is this resistor worth going high end? I am sure it can't hurt to go big in this spot I'm sure... I wasn't planning to.. This photo alone makes me tempted. Caddock just looks the best. Once ya start going big I have trouble stopping ;-)
I agree, I have a problem with ONLY buying top quality parts.. It is kindof dumb really. Optimally, I think i should build a stock unit with normal everyday resistors/caps and then slowly upgrade to the high quality parts. This way, I could learn first hand what impact these parts have on the sound (if any at all).
Some of the descriptions of the "sound" of these high quality parts is soooo subjective. It would be wrong to take these comments as gospel. Everyone's system is different in so many way.. Everyones ears are different, etc..
Some of the descriptions of the "sound" of these high quality parts is soooo subjective. It would be wrong to take these comments as gospel. Everyone's system is different in so many way.. Everyones ears are different, etc..
The Caddock MP-930, when properly heatsinked can reach upwards of 30W. These resistors are top notch. They are $7.95 at partsconnexion.com.. They sell the recommended heatsink as well ($1.50). So $20 total for this upgrade. I feel it is fully worth it. I have attached the datasheet if you are interested in taking a closer look.
The top quality parts bug got me. I just purchased the 2 Caddock resistors with the 2 heatsinks!
Not sure if this matters.. I was on the PartsConnexion page for Caddock > MP Series and went to the 10R and purchased 2. The purchase came thru with the "MK-930" detail below... Should I worry?
Quantity Name SKU Each Total
2 CADDOCK-62246 10R / 2.25 (to 30*) Watts, MK-930 Series, 1%, Radial Lead, Precision Metal Film, Each CADDOCK-62246 $7.95 $15.90
2 ACCESS Heatsink for Caddock Resistors - Clip on ACCESS-72307 $1.50 $3.00
Subtotal$18.90
Not sure if this matters.. I was on the PartsConnexion page for Caddock > MP Series and went to the 10R and purchased 2. The purchase came thru with the "MK-930" detail below... Should I worry?
Quantity Name SKU Each Total
2 CADDOCK-62246 10R / 2.25 (to 30*) Watts, MK-930 Series, 1%, Radial Lead, Precision Metal Film, Each CADDOCK-62246 $7.95 $15.90
2 ACCESS Heatsink for Caddock Resistors - Clip on ACCESS-72307 $1.50 $3.00
Subtotal$18.90
The same thing happened to me. Not sure why it does that. You got it right, don't worry. The "Caddock-62246" is the part number for the 10R MP-930.
I just finished tapping my sinks and i mounted everything on a spare piece of aluminum i had left over from another build. Just wanted to get all the measurements worked out so i can reproduce it flawlessly when i get a chassis.
I know (now) that the rectifiers do not need to be sinked when running 10R resistors. I had already placed an order with heatsinkusa.. I figured it wouldn't hurt them in any way and I might want to crank up the current in the future. This is the same reason i bought large heatsinks. Haha, this is the first time I have ever drilled and tapped my own heatsinks. I bought 4-40 tap originally.. I broke it.. Went back to the hardware store and bought a 6-32. I made sure to look at an online tutorial this time.. Among other things, I didn't know to use oil while tapping. Anyway, most everything is a learning opportunity. I am quite happy with the looks of things thus far though...
All i need is a transformer and a chassis to complete the build. I will keep ya posted.
I am thinking matching exotic wood front panels for my DCB1 and F5. DCB1 with wood knob. Small LED on/off indicators on both units. Not really sure exactly yet..
Regards
I just finished tapping my sinks and i mounted everything on a spare piece of aluminum i had left over from another build. Just wanted to get all the measurements worked out so i can reproduce it flawlessly when i get a chassis.
I know (now) that the rectifiers do not need to be sinked when running 10R resistors. I had already placed an order with heatsinkusa.. I figured it wouldn't hurt them in any way and I might want to crank up the current in the future. This is the same reason i bought large heatsinks. Haha, this is the first time I have ever drilled and tapped my own heatsinks. I bought 4-40 tap originally.. I broke it.. Went back to the hardware store and bought a 6-32. I made sure to look at an online tutorial this time.. Among other things, I didn't know to use oil while tapping. Anyway, most everything is a learning opportunity. I am quite happy with the looks of things thus far though...
All i need is a transformer and a chassis to complete the build. I will keep ya posted.
I am thinking matching exotic wood front panels for my DCB1 and F5. DCB1 with wood knob. Small LED on/off indicators on both units. Not really sure exactly yet..
Regards
Attachments
I was just looking at the photos in my last post. I see something potentially very do-able. You would need slightly longer heatsinks (maybe an inch). Im picturing the top cover being a piece of plexi-glass (or THICK glass). Colume control mounted dead center on a front plate of choice (more plexi or exotic wood). Heatsinks would need to be black or anything but anodized (you could get creative here). Black dissipates heat best thought I'd say.. The unit would be connected via umbilical cord to an external power supply that has similar design features..
I wish i had mad skills with a program like "Sketchup". Maybe I will learn..
Just using my imagination.. Not going to do that with this build. Whatd'ya think??
I wish i had mad skills with a program like "Sketchup". Maybe I will learn..
Just using my imagination.. Not going to do that with this build. Whatd'ya think??
Looks like you have some hot rodded PCB1 tunage in the forecast. Looks good.
You chassis idea sounds cool. I think I going to run some aluminum chassis from EPay or something... Some pretty good looking ones in the 40 - 70 buck range... Plus shipping which I'm sure will hurt.
You are right on the resistors from Cadock on Partsconnexion. I called and they said the same.
I'm getting into some spending spree issues... Got a pair of these today too...
You chassis idea sounds cool. I think I going to run some aluminum chassis from EPay or something... Some pretty good looking ones in the 40 - 70 buck range... Plus shipping which I'm sure will hurt.
You are right on the resistors from Cadock on Partsconnexion. I called and they said the same.
I'm getting into some spending spree issues... Got a pair of these today too...
