On a completely different matter, for those that are using coupling capacitors.
After Salas posted his #2314 post (found here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...otrodded-blue-dcb1-build-232.html#post3228763) it was bugging me to try these things.
For the last 3 months I have been using 0,47uF Mundorf Supremes and the results were great. Nice lows, nice highs, really cavernous imaging. Nice allover. However, I got the feeling that the entire sound was like... behind... like everything was positioned in the middle of a huge cavern and while I still got much of spatial sounds and nice very deep lows, it felt like the music had no energy to it. Snare drums had no kick. Guitar effects had no bite....
Enter the Russians...
I replaced each Mundorf with a 2.2uF K75-10 bypassed by a 0.1uF FT3. Did a quick check and powered everything up for a test.
The first CD I put was from Yanni, the live at the Acropolis. A nice CD with not particularly good recording and quite relaxing most of the time. I configured the volume to my usual level and thrown myself on my couch. Being a bit tired, the nice sweet piano sound quickly made me close my eyes and got me in an almost asleep situation... Until the drums kicked in... I was like what the f#@#@$#@??? That weak CD got me almost jump on my seat with its dynamics...
The russian capacitors are really a revelation. The mids are now back in the center of attention. Voices, drums and strings are now almost creepily real. I was surprised on the CD Alegria by Cirque du Soleil where on many cases I could feel how the singer was changing her head position, vertically or side ways.
On the low side, there seems to be a problem for now with lows and highs. Rather expected if we take into consideration that the caps are just out of their box and just freshly soldered.
If the lows and highs manage to follow the mids, I would be really in love.
I also got some 0.2uF FT3s so at some point I will also change the led filters as well (currently the Wimas from Mike's kit)
Oh and I need to find a way to properly attach them to the chassis. I don t know how microphonic they are, but I don t like having them so loose in there.
After Salas posted his #2314 post (found here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...otrodded-blue-dcb1-build-232.html#post3228763) it was bugging me to try these things.
For the last 3 months I have been using 0,47uF Mundorf Supremes and the results were great. Nice lows, nice highs, really cavernous imaging. Nice allover. However, I got the feeling that the entire sound was like... behind... like everything was positioned in the middle of a huge cavern and while I still got much of spatial sounds and nice very deep lows, it felt like the music had no energy to it. Snare drums had no kick. Guitar effects had no bite....
Enter the Russians...
I replaced each Mundorf with a 2.2uF K75-10 bypassed by a 0.1uF FT3. Did a quick check and powered everything up for a test.
The first CD I put was from Yanni, the live at the Acropolis. A nice CD with not particularly good recording and quite relaxing most of the time. I configured the volume to my usual level and thrown myself on my couch. Being a bit tired, the nice sweet piano sound quickly made me close my eyes and got me in an almost asleep situation... Until the drums kicked in... I was like what the f#@#@$#@??? That weak CD got me almost jump on my seat with its dynamics...
The russian capacitors are really a revelation. The mids are now back in the center of attention. Voices, drums and strings are now almost creepily real. I was surprised on the CD Alegria by Cirque du Soleil where on many cases I could feel how the singer was changing her head position, vertically or side ways.
On the low side, there seems to be a problem for now with lows and highs. Rather expected if we take into consideration that the caps are just out of their box and just freshly soldered.
If the lows and highs manage to follow the mids, I would be really in love.
I also got some 0.2uF FT3s so at some point I will also change the led filters as well (currently the Wimas from Mike's kit)
Oh and I need to find a way to properly attach them to the chassis. I don t know how microphonic they are, but I don t like having them so loose in there.
I have a question about the LED connection I have the red arrow pointing to on the PCB board. I think I've seen people use this as a connect for an indicator LED that you could place on the front of the Preamp box... Basically install the LED on the front of the preamp and run a pair of leads to this connection on the PCB YES/NO?
IF yes... What Voltage LED and what draw?
Thanks for the help all !!! Bring on the weekend!
[/IMG]
IF yes... What Voltage LED and what draw?
Thanks for the help all !!! Bring on the weekend!
I haven t tried the SIO mundorfs, but I have read in various places that the russians beat them marginally. Try googling something about a "capacitor orgy". You will find some nice reviews in there. He seems to know what he s talking about, and all the ones I have tested myself give me the same impressions.
Anyway, I guess cap rolling is actually more a matter of taste and pocket depth than subjective truth...
Anyway, I guess cap rolling is actually more a matter of taste and pocket depth than subjective truth...
capacitor orgy... funny. Some good reads even with the funny name.
I'm looing at running an on / off toggle... I think I can just run the AC + / ground off the toggle to something like this:
Alpinetech Blue LED Pilot Indicator Light 22mm 120V AC DC Relampable | eBay
I'm looing at running an on / off toggle... I think I can just run the AC + / ground off the toggle to something like this:
Alpinetech Blue LED Pilot Indicator Light 22mm 120V AC DC Relampable | eBay
I've got my DCB1 Hotrod singing sweetly and playing nice with the rest of my system. I was using Broskie's 6SN7 as a pre and it was great, makes me sad that it will either only gather dust or be dismantled for parts......
, Not that sad. This is one piece that is staying in my system for a LONG time.
Thank you Salas! It sounds wonderful!
Enjoy the pics.
Ron
, Not that sad. This is one piece that is staying in my system for a LONG time.Thank you Salas! It sounds wonderful!
Enjoy the pics.
Ron
Attachments
I've got my DCB1 Hotrod singing sweetly and playing nice with the rest of my system. I was using Broskie's 6SN7 as a pre and it was great, makes me sad that it will either only gather dust or be dismantled for parts......
Thank you Salas! It sounds wonderful!
Enjoy the pics.
Ron
Very nice build and interesting front panel design. Enjoy.
Those will work in tonal combination with the output safety ones you use in your DC amp featuring system. If you will object to something when used straight over the Leds don't forget to combine a 47uF to 100uF of your liking across them.
Hello,
I am building DCB1 with 10R resistor hot-rod. I have a question about the rectifiers that i purchased. I bought (4) Cree Schottky Diode 1200V 2A because i read it could be a possible upgrade. This was posted by TeaBag in his initial Blog post regarding DCB1 "Blue". I see that the BOM calls for 8A rectifiers for HotRod (Mur860G). Just making sure the units i have will be optimal. I am trying to collect the highest quality parts available and have been taking my time on this build. What would be the optimal rectifier diode? I will be heatsinking them via a HeatSinkUSA product.
Thanks in advance,
Madison
I am building DCB1 with 10R resistor hot-rod. I have a question about the rectifiers that i purchased. I bought (4) Cree Schottky Diode 1200V 2A because i read it could be a possible upgrade. This was posted by TeaBag in his initial Blog post regarding DCB1 "Blue". I see that the BOM calls for 8A rectifiers for HotRod (Mur860G). Just making sure the units i have will be optimal. I am trying to collect the highest quality parts available and have been taking my time on this build. What would be the optimal rectifier diode? I will be heatsinking them via a HeatSinkUSA product.
Thanks in advance,
Madison
Mantha,
If that is a Bulgin switch then it should work just fine. The fit and finish on the Bulgin brand is outstanding, audio jewelry.
For others who asked about this switch.
I've used these switches for years and they work perfectly. Used to cost ~$25 now they're ~$15.
Bulgin MP0045/1E2BL012
Mouser has them.
3A at 250V should be more than enough
Caution, the info says that the LED is 12V. it is not. you WILL fry the led if you don't use the proper resistor in front of it. Bonus is you get to choose how bright you want the ring. Small soldering terminals is a minus but not impossible.
Yes, the TX is an Rcore. I bought it from DIYGene.
50W R Core Transformer,115V//230V, for Preamp,DAC/R26-x
I got the R26-34 model, quiet as a church mouse.
All kinds of ways to pull the 3VDC for the LED. Tap off one of the 0-15VDC after rectification, and use the proper resistor. And Bob's your uncle!
If that is a Bulgin switch then it should work just fine. The fit and finish on the Bulgin brand is outstanding, audio jewelry.
For others who asked about this switch.
I've used these switches for years and they work perfectly. Used to cost ~$25 now they're ~$15.
Bulgin MP0045/1E2BL012
Mouser has them.
3A at 250V should be more than enough
Caution, the info says that the LED is 12V. it is not. you WILL fry the led if you don't use the proper resistor in front of it. Bonus is you get to choose how bright you want the ring. Small soldering terminals is a minus but not impossible.
Yes, the TX is an Rcore. I bought it from DIYGene.
50W R Core Transformer,115V//230V, for Preamp,DAC/R26-x
I got the R26-34 model, quiet as a church mouse.
All kinds of ways to pull the 3VDC for the LED. Tap off one of the 0-15VDC after rectification, and use the proper resistor. And Bob's your uncle!
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We used the MUR860 because of its TO-220 packaging that can withstand temperature for dissipation high enough in max hot-rod in DCB1, not for its 8A handling. Its a popular part amongst subjectivists also. Any promising TO-220 type from 2A 100V upwards can make do. For 10R set resistors there will be no need for sinking the diodes.
There is 12V after 2k2 series resistor power-on LED supply already on the board where you had pointed the arrow in a recent picture of yours. Taking it from there includes the main filters supply drain time down to 13-14V dimming clue too.