Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

[Salas]

Another one plagued retailer. Life goes on.

 

[stajo]

La vida loca. I'm working on this fusion reactor. Its gonna be finished any day now

 

[mike_mcf]

Its fake

Where did you get it?

 

[henryve]

I am still trying to determine if those from hifituning is the original. I did order from Spencer before, but I would like a whole lot and do the matching myself.

 

[stajo]

Where did you get it?

A Swedish company named Electrokit. They are nice and helpfull usually. I will inform them of my suspisions. Mouser seems to have had BLFs to. http://se.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/2SK170BLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsJmpGqH39DLMl9IPYZAVDS

Staffan

 

[stajo]

I'm really not sure what to think. I did some measures with the same device I used for the 170BL that now is on the cards and I have no left to reference to. Its a 100R resistor, not 1k as earlyer stated. Battery says 9,5 V.

Some 2SK117GR that I had a bag of and the 2SK170BLF says around 3-6 mA, compared to the values I got from the 170BL that is 6-10 mA.

Staffan

 

[Salas]

Do you have a macro picture of those front and back?

 

[stajo]

Do you have a macro picture of those front and back?

Your brilliant Salas. Its GR

From datasheet:
IDSS classification GR: 2.6~6.5 mA, BL: 6.0~12 mA, V: 10~20 mA

Seems to be sold under strange name BLF? Ill ask Electrokit.

Camera battery died for the back shoot. Brb.

 

[Salas]

Those are indeed GR (green selection) as by you had used 100 Ohm and not 1K so they conform for IDSS range. The face looks OK. If also the shallow small circle on their back has no symbol in it, they are K170GR Toshiba by most chance.

 

[stajo]

I see no secret glyphs

 

[Salas]

Faked American Fets for K170 usually have some symbol in there that the dodgy fellas leave there and only grind and change the face print. That is why I asked you to check. Another subtle clue is at the pins where they enter the plastic. If genuine Toshiba you can see a hint of copper color that is not completely tinned.

 

[stajo]

My son just asked me why I'm taking pictures of stupid electrical stuff. "Who want to look at those?" I had to confess that I'm a nerd

 

[Salas]

Tell him you teleport silicon souls to Greece for a holiday.

 

[stajo]

Funny I just helped him construct a teleport glyph in Minecraft. I wish it had lead to Greece tho. Sorry for the OT.

 

[oneplustwo]

Anyone ever try feeding one of these with laptop power supply bricks? Most are 19v which might be a little low, but perhaps less losses since you could skip the rectifiers. Just a thought since I have a couple lying around.

 

[Salas]

Capacitors coupled B1 takes monopole, this one takes bipolar PSU. Better avoid switching PSUs anyway unless it is essentially practical to use one. And better filter it further. Even DC to DC converter regs produce traces of their inner works along their DC output.

 

[Salas]

...And here is an output noise example from some LM2596 buck regulator PCB I had around. Has the datasheet output filtering configuration. 10V input 5V output -no load- in this take. High efficiency step down switcher yes, steady DC output yes, much current capability yes, clean enough for hi-res audio PSU use rather no.

 

[mike_mcf]

That's pretty nasty looking. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Salas]

That ripple goes to 60mV peak to peak when it gives 1A. It receives linearly regulated DC input in the test, I don't know if it adds even more stuff if fed from just bridge and capacitor. Typical laptop bricks can be worse or bit better but that's the deal more or less. Silent SMPS are costly and sophisticated. Like those for Hypex Ncore amps.

 

[mike_mcf]

I have been following the nCore thread for some time (a future project). The consensus is that the nCore SMPS is as good as a linear PS. Expensive, but it proves that a SMPS can be made well enough for audiophile applications.