You can also check the polarity by seeing the circular led annotation on the pcb, showing for each group where the flat side (cathode) goes
I made a mistake there to. If you try to take a led out you will destroy them. They are not the best mechanical quality.
Ok - thanks for the advice.
Had to "power up". Just for some seconds without heatsinks attached. One mosfet got very hot really fast btw.
Almost all leds glowed.. But not all. 3 of them did not.. Will look into this tomorrow I guess. Check orientation and so on ...
Did a couple of measurements between V+ , G and V- ... Got +9.95Vdc and -9.96Vdc
Had to "power up". Just for some seconds without heatsinks attached. One mosfet got very hot really fast btw.
Almost all leds glowed.. But not all. 3 of them did not.. Will look into this tomorrow I guess. Check orientation and so on ...
Did a couple of measurements between V+ , G and V- ... Got +9.95Vdc and -9.96Vdc
Attachments
Sorry it this is like spam? Had a visual check on those leds and just as I expected. One was in wrong direction..
Unsoldered it and in again.. There is light - The relay clicks in after some seconds..
Had it on for a couple of minutes and measured V+,G,V-... Got +9.86 and -9.86 Vdc... Must recap this thread to see what other measurements that has to be done to make sure the buffer is ok.
My transformer for the test is a 15VA 2*12V transformer. (230Vac mains) - and I have another identical one also..
I measured it and it actually measures aprox 13.8Vac - because of somewhat higher voltage in my house. (approx 235Vac)
Sincerely
Unsoldered it and in again.. There is light - The relay clicks in after some seconds..
Had it on for a couple of minutes and measured V+,G,V-... Got +9.86 and -9.86 Vdc... Must recap this thread to see what other measurements that has to be done to make sure the buffer is ok.
My transformer for the test is a 15VA 2*12V transformer. (230Vac mains) - and I have another identical one also..
I measured it and it actually measures aprox 13.8Vac - because of somewhat higher voltage in my house. (approx 235Vac)
Sincerely
Attachments
No need to go through the entire thread. It can be a real chore.
Check this out
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/tea-bag/296-salas-dcb1-blue-edition.html
The pdfs are really nice
Check this out
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/blogs/tea-bag/296-salas-dcb1-blue-edition.html
The pdfs are really nice
Sorry it this is like spam? Had a visual check on those leds and just as I expected. One was in wrong direction..
Unsoldered it and in again.. There is light - The relay clicks in after some seconds..
Had it on for a couple of minutes and measured V+,G,V-... Got +9.86 and -9.86 Vdc... Must recap this thread to see what other measurements that has to be done to make sure the buffer is ok.
My transformer for the test is a 15VA 2*12V transformer. (230Vac mains) - and I have another identical one also..
I measured it and it actually measures aprox 13.8Vac - because of somewhat higher voltage in my house. (approx 235Vac)
Sincerely
If the dc offset on both audio outputs is below 5mV, you are OK. Only sink it first. Secondary check left to do is to measure voltage across the 10 Ohm resistors, then divide by 10 each, so to verify you got 150-200mA running per side.
Thanks again..
Had an old cabinett. Sinked the dcb1 to the chassis and put it on.
Waited about 10 minutes and did some readings.
Vout: 9.86Vdc and -9.86Vdc
DCoffset : 3.1mV and 3.0mV
Over the power resistors: 1.66V (IRFB9240 side) and 1.55V (IRFB240 side..
These are good readings right?
Have ordered a "potted" 50VA 2*15V transformer.. Should be here tomorrow I guess.
My old lightspeed attenuators have been taken up again.
Had an old cabinett. Sinked the dcb1 to the chassis and put it on.
Waited about 10 minutes and did some readings.
Vout: 9.86Vdc and -9.86Vdc
DCoffset : 3.1mV and 3.0mV
Over the power resistors: 1.66V (IRFB9240 side) and 1.55V (IRFB240 side..
These are good readings right?
Have ordered a "potted" 50VA 2*15V transformer.. Should be here tomorrow I guess.
My old lightspeed attenuators have been taken up again.
Attachments
All depends on how HOT ROD you are going.
At 300mA you will start to need heatsinks.
I'm running 10R and everything is nice and cool. At 4R7 even the 2E heatsinks were getting VERY WARM (50 Degrees C)
At 300mA you will start to need heatsinks.
I'm running 10R and everything is nice and cool. At 4R7 even the 2E heatsinks were getting VERY WARM (50 Degrees C)
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks again..
Had an old cabinett. Sinked the dcb1 to the chassis and put it on.
Waited about 10 minutes and did some readings.
Vout: 9.86Vdc and -9.86Vdc
DCoffset : 3.1mV and 3.0mV
Over the power resistors: 1.66V (IRFB9240 side) and 1.55V (IRFB240 side..
These are good readings right?
Have ordered a "potted" 50VA 2*15V transformer.. Should be here tomorrow I guess.
My old lightspeed attenuators have been taken up again.
Good readings.
I've not read a good review on the Lightspeed - I've always opted for a good ladder attenuator.
REALLY?! You haven't looked very hard -- there are tons of positive reviews on this site. The main thread is one of the most popular on DIY Audio. The commercial version is Stereophile Class A IIRC.
Some people don't have a system with enough resolution to hear the difference between a Lightspeed and a ladder, so they opt for the simpler design of the ladder. That makes sense. But most people who hear both prefer the Lightspeed.
Good choices.
If you really got space in the box, I would recommend 4 monstrous 2.2uF Russian capacitors to make two 4.4uF pairs bypassing each pair with 0.1uF monstrous Russian Teflon. I believe they exceed the German silver in oil type even when in that config for far far less.
2 2uF 250V PIO Capacitors K75 10 Lot of 4 Hi End | eBay
0 1uF 5 600V Teflon Hi End Capacitors ft 3 Lot of 2 | eBay
Maybe ask for combined shipping fees when coming from the same vendor.
Salas
If used without bypass how good Is quality related to mundorf silver oil and obbligato premium gold
Salas
If used without bypass how good Is quality related to mundorf silver oil and obbligato premium gold
Nice links. I bought some Russian teflons but they are very bad sounding. Iron sealing and magnetic legs.
?? All the Russian teflons I've used (FT-3s) were sealed with teflon on the ends and all the metal parts were aluminum, and they sounded great.
Nice links. I bought some Russian teflons but they are very bad sounding. Iron sealing and magnetic legs.
?? All the Russian teflons I've used (FT-3s) were sealed with teflon on the ends and all the metal parts were aluminum, and they sounded great.
+1
And they take forever to break in
Ron
+1
And they take forever to break in
Ron
??? I wonder how great sounding is like ! A LOT of treble ?
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