Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

Hi. I replaced all my signal path PRP resistors with Caddock 132's in the 1m
position, TF020's in the 220k position and TX2575 in the 220R position. The
sound is a lot smoother and detailed and the imaging improved a bit. As Dart
Vader used to say: "most impressive"!

Currently I have Nichicon FX 4700uf and KZ 100uf capacitors installed. Will
replacing any of these with "better" improve the sound much? I thought of
replacing the 4700uf's with Nichicon KZ Gold or Mundorf MLytic AGs? The Nichicon's
arent too expensive, but the Mundorfs are.

Would it be worthwhile to replace the KZ's with Elna Cerafines?
 
Currently I have Nichicon FX 4700uf and KZ 100uf capacitors installed. Will replacing any of these with "better" improve the sound much? I thought of replacing the 4700uf's with Nichicon KZ Gold or Mundorf MLytic AGs? The Nichicon's arent too expensive, but the Mundorfs are.

Mundorfs are simply the best caps you can use there but if they're too costly don't worry much about it...

Would it be worthwhile to replace the KZ's with Elna Cerafines?

IMHO yes but the best thing you can do is to try...Cerafines have reasonable cost.
 
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Hi. I replaced all my signal path PRP resistors with Caddock 132's in the 1m
position, TF020's in the 220k position and TX2575 in the 220R position. The
sound is a lot smoother and detailed and the imaging improved a bit. As Dart
Vader used to say: "most impressive"!

Currently I have Nichicon FX 4700uf and KZ 100uf capacitors installed. Will
replacing any of these with "better" improve the sound much? I thought of
replacing the 4700uf's with Nichicon KZ Gold or Mundorf MLytic AGs? The Nichicon's
arent too expensive, but the Mundorfs are.

Would it be worthwhile to replace the KZ's with Elna Cerafines?

Did you up the bias beyond 200ma? That brought imaging up substaintially in my setup, which looks a lot like yours now. Some day I will go for the Mundorf's - if for nothing more than to express what I think of them for the masses.

The 100UF KZ vs the ELNA's is a good one. slightly different tonal charachter. Elna smoother, and Muse sharper. Get both and solder in just the leads a bit, and try them out. Of course the Elna's certainly like a lot of back in time so consider that. Leave it running for a few weeks.

Enjoy!!!
 
Here's my DCB1. Totally from the parts sent by Tea-Bag. Nice complete parts kit. my first impression is very good. I'll listen a while and see how things develop.
Evan
 

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Did you up the bias beyond 200ma? That brought imaging up substaintially in my setup, which looks a lot like yours now. Some day I will go for the Mundorf's - if for nothing more than to express what I think of them for the masses.

The 100UF KZ vs the ELNA's is a good one. slightly different tonal charachter. Elna smoother, and Muse sharper. Get both and solder in just the leads a bit, and try them out. Of course the Elna's certainly like a lot of back in time so consider that. Leave it running for a few weeks.

Enjoy!!!

I have some Sikorels on the way that i will pit against the Nichicon KG. I also will be trying PRP. If i can tell a difference over Kiwame, i will go for Tx2575.
 
nice work on the enclosure Evan, you really should make yourself an LOD for the ipad to replace that mini2mini. if you need instructions or a dock connector let me know i'll send one to you. ive started working on mine again for a bit of fun, mainly to use up some tx220 in 4R i have acquired an abundance of and also because ive stuffed it with such premium parts it would be a shame to not use it before deciding whether or not to flip it on. as ive said before, i dont really need a buffer, but its such a cool OTT design
 
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Thanks... Again I feel like a trained monkey. Yes the speakers are big, just ask my wife. The bass drivers and tweeter are padded down to match the beta12lta at about 97 db/w/m The amp is a dual mono f5 dc coupled. It drives the beta12 and the tweeters. The system seems to offer plenty of gain. I'll tell you better when the house is empty. The heatsinks are cool after a few hours of playing so I guess it's time to up the current.
 
Did you up the bias beyond 200ma? That brought imaging up substaintially in my setup, which looks a lot like yours now. Some day I will go for the Mundorf's - if for nothing more than to express what I think of them for the masses,,,

I ordered Cerafines, Silmics and Panasonic FCs. I'm going to put IC female sockets on the board until I make my choice, so I can change them without soldering.

Mine is biased to 300ma with aluminium L's and cpu heatsinks glued to the L's (cpu heatsinks kindly donated by Teabag). I'm using 5R mills. If I go to 600ma, will these sinks take it or should I look into replacing them with heftier ones?

If I go to 500-600ma bias, does it matter what resistor I use? I have some Kiwame 5w 2.7Rs carbon film, or should I go with the Mills 2.xR?

Teabag, mine looks a lot like yours because I'm following your recommendations for upgrades from a few months back!

Thanks again.
 
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My heatsinks seem fine, running 3.3R. Mine are now the Dales 6.5W type that ~50ppm tempco. The problem became I needed to drill more holes in the casing to keep the components a bit cooler.

The Carbon Films gave much higher tempco - which would not be my choice.
The Mills are probably a really good choice. But there is much honor in using what you got :)
 
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Hi Tea-Bag,
CADDOCK|MP930-5.00-1%|RESISTOR, CURRENT SENSE, 5OHM | e絡盟 Hong Kong

Found some 5R30W at element14, will that be suitable ? Hard to find 3.3R, they have 2R.

I've heard of people blowing them in power supplies, and wirewounds are better for this. I use them as source resistors only. I think a few other members have used caddocks, but I won't speak for them. Probably with caps used here, we are okay.

2R should be fine if you've got some big sinks for it.
 
I tried 3.3 R and changed the sinks. Is there a big heat difference from the 10R?

It seems the IRF's are running at room temp. I can keep my fingers on them for a long time.

How hot should they get with 3.3R?

I am getting sound out of the dcb1. Sounds pretty good actually.
How and what can I measure on those irf's to be sure they ar not burnt?