Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

yeah RS are an option. I need some other parts too and those guys have some of them. so if the shipping isnt too bad i'll just go with Banzai. at 14 bucks each I can almost PAY for the shipping from banzai with the price difference. gotta love these places like RS and farnell in OZ that say they have 'free shipping' when all of the parts they sell are increased in price easily enough to cover the shipping. farnell once tried to charge me a 1000% markup on a common mode choke when compared to mouser. 1.40 at mouser and 13.85 at farnell
 
yeah, if over 160-170aud I always go mouser, because of free fast shipping and they have a better range and prices of some things than digikey. we should stay in touch. I make orders regularly and throw in with a friend in sydney and split shipping including the local postage. digikey have a better range of smd R's, C's, ICs and fets. its a pity that there is no one place that carries everything.

sorry for the OT guys
 
12v relay alternative?

Mouser have a (new?) 12v Panasonic relay - the TQ2-12V-3. I couldn't find a reference to the -3 in the datasheet. Does anyone know whether this relay will work and be an appropriate substitute for the Omron/original Panasonic part?

I'm placing an order with Mouser so would prefer something from there - I know Banzai have the Omron available if this doesn't work out.

Thanks.

Justin.
 
Mouser have a (new?) 12v Panasonic relay - the TQ2-12V-3. I couldn't find a reference to the -3 in the datasheet. Does anyone know whether this relay will work and be an appropriate substitute for the Omron/original Panasonic part?

I'm placing an order with Mouser so would prefer something from there - I know Banzai have the Omron available if this doesn't work out.

Thanks.

Justin.

I've found this in the datasheet:

Notes: 1. AgPd stationary contact types available for high resistance against contact sticking.
When ordering, please add suffix “–3” like TQ2-12V-3.


any experience of this type for the DCB1?

Thanks.
 
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Got my special 65VA doubled shielded audio transformer today but i´m still waiting to the Texas Components resistors. :bawling:

What you see on the transformer is a small nice circuit around the Sharp SS-Relais S202.
With it, i just need to switch a small 12VDC line not the complete 230VAC in the final case.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
What is the ideal IDSS for the B1 matched SK170s please?

I note that around 8-10mA is stated as preferable in the notes, but that GR grade (less than 6mA) was Nelson Pass' spec in the original B1.

Also, I currently have a 100uF electro as led bypass cap. What do I need to know to decide upon putting a film cap in there, and the value to choose.

Many thanks as always.
 
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What is the ideal IDSS for the B1 matched SK170s please?

I note that around 8-10mA is stated as preferable in the notes, but that GR grade (less than 6mA) was Nelson Pass' spec in the original B1.

Also, I currently have a 100uF electro as led bypass cap. What do I need to know to decide upon putting a film cap in there, and the value to choose.

Many thanks as always.

Around 7 to 8 is nicer. GR would work too. Plastic cap is ok only for full leds voltage reference 10V DCB1, not in reg only use with added resistor. 0.22uF was alright, but it can do ok with higher too if you got it in better quality. In general a preference after listening area.
 
So...

My DCB1 Blue is complete. Photos to follow...I am making up a preamp, which has the following components:

Mezmerize switcher section (10vdc from DCB1 by cable)
DCB1 Blue Edition
Lightspeed attenuator

I will also be putting a remote controlled powered volume pot in there later, but if we consider the lightspeed and remote as just a 10R pot for now, in what order should I put the signal? pot after B1 or before?

Also, regarding earthing. I am wary of connecting ANY of the pre-amp signal earths to the chassis earth or power earth for fear of creating an earth loop.

In my mind it makes a lot of sense to instead put all signal earths in the pre-amp straight through to the power amp without them touching a thing. They will then naturally connect to chassis/power earth on the power amp. Is this the best way of doing things?

Many thanks as ever
 
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I fired up my DCB1 this morning using a variac to keep the secondary voltage to 15 volts all the leds lit up and the relay clicked in after a few seconds. My p/supply voltages are +9.63 and - 9.6 volts with offset readings of -0.2 and -0.7mv. Do I need to play with the leds to get above 10v or am I good to go? Im still waiting on Selectronique to send my transformer before I can have a listen; hope there not to long.
 
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Hi, I built a few and I generally have 0.4V to 0.5V difference between the positive and negative supplies. Offset around 3 to 4 mV so consider yourself a lucky guy as you're good to go.

Even when I match the LEDs they will differ when used in the circuit as clearly can be seen as they burn brighter at the positive supply. The string of 5 LEDs is 9.01V and 9.6V in the positive supply. I used yellow and red LEDs but the differences stay the same.


Is there a diagram of this layout somewhere?

Thanks,

Russellc

Please see this link for some info on page 2 and 3:

http://passdiy.com/pdf/balzenpre.pdf

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...l-psu-layout-how-does-look-2.html#post2295966
 
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