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Old 14th August 2010, 10:10 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichLund View Post
I had also considered this and will be re-installing the input cap on my NCC poweramp. Something like a 3.3 - 10uF polyprop would do.

I recommend the K4700 speaker protection kit from Velleman. Very effective and no loss to sound quality as far as I can tell:

ESR Electronic Components - Velleman Kits

Decent kits are also avilable from SKA Audio and ebay -

SKA sponsored Audio Forum - Products

Stereo Speaker protection kit components DIY NEW A16 on eBay (end time 26-Aug-10 10:15:24 BST)

Speaker protection circuit dual mono 30A BTL /stereo ! on eBay (end time 03-Sep-10 15:07:48 BST)
To make the protection kit recommendations complete:

Aussie Ampīs LSP-1


Cheers,
Oliver
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Old 14th August 2010, 11:31 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvb-projekt View Post
To make the protection kit recommendations complete:

Aussie Ampīs LSP-1


Cheers,
Oliver
These are all pretty much if not completely sonically transparent, so I wonder what the point of buying such an expensive kit is??
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Old 15th August 2010, 07:07 PM   #53
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Default Irfp240

Looking at the Blue Board their is no indication as to where the N-Channel and P-Channel are placed.


The only indication of polarity is the V+ and V- printed on the board next to 3 holes marked "G" and 10 20 30 and J2.

Is this the indication to place the N_Channel mosfets on the V- and the P_Channel on the V+ side of the Blue Board?
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Old 15th August 2010, 07:28 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ppcblaster View Post
Looking at the Blue Board their is no indication as to where the N-Channel and P-Channel are placed.


The only indication of polarity is the V+ and V- printed on the board next to 3 holes marked "G" and 10 20 30 and J2.

Is this the indication to place the N_Channel mosfets on the V- and the P_Channel on the V+ side of the Blue Board?
It gives the numbers IRFP 9240 for P channel and IRFP240 for the N channel (note the number 9 in the middle of the P channel number!)

Also, yes, the P channel is on the + side of the reg.
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Old 16th August 2010, 02:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
I recommend a 200r output resistor to all 4 RCA outputs.
i.e. don't share the existing 200r between a DC and an AC output.
May I ask why if they are not going to be connected simultaneously? The other end of the cap would hang off disconnected
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Old 16th August 2010, 02:41 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by regiregi22 View Post
May I ask why if they are not going to be connected simultaneously? The other end of the cap would hang off disconnected
I would not leave the other end disconnected. I would use a 1M0 or 2M2 to DC reference the Hot to audio ground.

If I have two outputs, one AC coupled and one DC coupled, I would be very tempted to try a bass or sub-bass amp/speaker on the DC coupled output and reserve the AC coupled output for Mid and/or Treble amp/speaker. That way I can put in a low value, high quality, coupling/DC blocking cap that is affordable.
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Old 16th August 2010, 05:36 PM   #57
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When is J1 used on the Blue Board?

J2 is used with 12V relay, correct?

Where is the Build Manual?
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Old 16th August 2010, 05:58 PM   #58
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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J1 is used always. J2 is used always. The ''NOTE'' resistor is replaced with a jumper when having a 12V relay as it is explained under ''NOTE:Replace...'' on the board itself. If with 5V relay its 2 600R resistors side by side.

There is no build ''manual'' that I am aware of.
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Old 16th August 2010, 06:24 PM   #59
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Thank you,

I need to install a jumper wire on J1 because one is always needed and

I am using a 12v relay I need to install a jumper wire on J2

and not install the 2x 600R's?
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Old 16th August 2010, 06:30 PM   #60
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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And use a jumper instead of any 600R where it says note.
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