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Old 24th October 2010, 01:04 PM   #531
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Excellent. Where did you give the Hi-Fi 2000 box for machining and lettering? Cranked up to 0.6A already?
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Old 24th October 2010, 01:07 PM   #532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
Excellent. Where did you give the Hi-Fi 2000 box for machining and lettering? Cranked up to 0.6A already?
The design i made myself with a CNC program from Schaeffer AG in Berlin.
They also made the machining and lettering.

After the installing with the copper blocks, the sinks are ice cold
So the hotrod 0.6A installation follows. I must just order the 3R3s.
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Last edited by dvb projekt; 24th October 2010 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 24th October 2010, 01:12 PM   #533
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Yep, I have seen those guys being recommended before. Are they fast, charging logically too? Let us know how you will perceive the next stop hot rod. Congratulations, I hope that DCB1 will continue to please you.
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Old 24th October 2010, 02:54 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
Are they fast, charging logically too?
They have an excellent service and you have a few options how fast they build your order.
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Old 24th October 2010, 04:28 PM   #535
Malka07 is offline Malka07  England
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WOW

Congratulations Oliver your Dcb1 looks AMAZING...defininetly my fav Dcb1 build.

Hmmm Im thinking maybe we should do a group buy for a chassis like that for the Reference TDA1541a Dac

Oh and like Salas says...please let us know what you think of the Dcb1running at 600ma

Alon
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Old 25th October 2010, 10:43 AM   #536
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Oliver, my pre-amp is very similar to yours. DC-B1, relay selector and OVC. I've just been reading on the George/Uriah optical volume thread, where they both agree that the OVC should be in a temperature constant environment, or else it will not produce stable results. You might consider putting the unit inside a small aluminium hammond box or similar, within the case. I have just been reading about this here:

Lightspeed Attenuator a new passive preamp

Awesome build, by the way. You must be very happy with all your hard work! Very impressive.
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Last edited by LucasAdamson; 25th October 2010 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 25th October 2010, 11:56 AM   #537
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvb-projekt View Post
After the installing with the copper blocks, the sinks are ice cold
if the sinks are cold then that is an indicator that the sinks are not dissipating any heat.
It is not an indicator that the sinks are working well.
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Old 25th October 2010, 12:54 PM   #538
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Quote:
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if the sinks are cold then that is an indicator that the sinks are not dissipating any heat.
It is not an indicator that the sinks are working well.
Hi Andrew,

before the installation and without the copper blocks, the sinks were a bit warm.
Now in the case, with the copper blocks between the sinks and the aluminum bottom, they are cold.
So the dissipation works very well, or where should i search the heat?
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Old 25th October 2010, 01:10 PM   #539
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvb-projekt View Post
before the installation and without the copper blocks, the sinks were a bit warm.
means the sinks were dissipating some heat.
Quote:
Now in the case, with the copper blocks between the sinks and the aluminum bottom, they are cold.
means the sinks are not dissipating any heat.
Quote:
So the dissipation works very well, or where should i search the heat?
No, the thermal resistance between the device and the heatsink is preventing the heatsink from getting warm.
How warm is the device?

If you say the device is cold, then ask yourself what heat is the device dissipating?
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Old 25th October 2010, 01:28 PM   #540
cedricb is offline cedricb  Europe
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Basically you need to have a heat transfer between your mofset and the headsink/copper bloc/chassis.
So if the "stuff" attached to your mofset is huge then it should be cold/warm; it means that the dissipation is effective and working well...

Please discard if I'm talking rubbish...
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