Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 329 - diyAudio
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Old 12th October 2013, 02:33 PM   #3281
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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Post us your pots review after your tests then.
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Old 14th October 2013, 06:55 AM   #3282
nezbleu is offline nezbleu  Canada
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While you're at it, include one of these: Dact Type 21 Stepped Attenuator Volume 20K FOR Preamp | eBay

They're like $12, made with 1% resistors, and work just fine.
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Old 14th October 2013, 07:04 AM   #3283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadut View Post
another vote for TKD but if you say alps bb is a crap, how would blue velvet be?
anyway the seller keep teasing me with his tkd attenuator
Yes what is that in the middle ? Look like a million.
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Old 14th October 2013, 11:30 AM   #3284
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Default Attenuator 46 step

Billede 043.jpg






Anybody need this ? Absolutely topquality. No plastic no ceramik simply the best.
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Old 20th October 2013, 12:39 PM   #3285
Corpius is offline Corpius  Netherlands
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Default Balanced DCB1 power supply question

Let's say that I want to design my own balanced PCB version of the DCB1. Would it be sufficient to use just one (salas hot rod) power supply to power both B1 circuits or would it be better to use two power supplies?

When using two supplies, do they need to be very balanced in order to make sure that both channels are like exact copies and the signal get handled the same?
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Old 20th October 2013, 06:32 PM   #3286
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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Two will be better.
No, not super balanced because gain is 1 and huge local feedback in the buffers makes them act much alike. Focus on FETs matching between phases.
Nice schematic drawings BTW.
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Old 20th October 2013, 07:54 PM   #3287
Corpius is offline Corpius  Netherlands
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Thanks. All clear.
I used sPlan7 for drawing the schematics. The software can't run any simulations, but it's very easy to use. A particular nice feature is that it can make component lists based on the actual schematics.
The schematic drawings are copied from the mesmerize DCB1 schematics, but by drawing them myself I get a better understanding of the schematics than by just looking at them.
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Old 21st October 2013, 07:53 AM   #3288
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Corpius,
can I suggest a change to the mute operation?
Add a second resistor in series with and after the 220r output resistor. This extra resistor could be anywhere from 100r to 1k.
Move the S3 tapping from the output to the junction of the original 220r and the added resistor.
When ON, the switch shorts out the added resistor and the Receiver sees the lone 220r.
When MUTE, the switch connects to Audio Ground and the Source sees [220r+added resistor] as the load.

You could now change the original 220r to 100r, since this is no longer the only load when in MUTE.
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Old 26th October 2013, 02:21 PM   #3289
gadut is online now gadut  Indonesia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
Post us your pots review after your tests then.
I have not tested it yet but the more I ask, more people suggest TKD, it's just like your advise previously.

Spent half day just to learn to use new drill, makita 1630 is soo heavy but it's so fun
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Old 26th October 2013, 02:39 PM   #3290
Salas is online now Salas  Greece
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This one is a real battle tank. You plan just a very little hot-rod current mode I guess.
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