Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 298 - diyAudio
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Old 9th April 2013, 01:28 AM   #2971
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OK I have just replaced the K75-10/FT3 combo with a 0.47uF FT3.

I have not done any proper auditioning yet since it s late here in Greece, but from some low volume tests I can tell that the non broken in FT3s play at least as good as the broken in K75-10/FT3 combo, but I am pretty sure that FT3s already go higher and lower.

To be fair I have also replaced the output wiring with some nordost ribbon cabling, so part of the improvement could be due to that, but still...
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Old 9th April 2013, 04:24 PM   #2972
henryve is offline henryve  South Africa
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I have received my boards from Tea-Bag and have started putting a DCB1 (BiB) together.

Just one simple question: Is a WIMA MKP4 1uF OK for suppressing the LED noise from the supply?

I see most people went for 0.22uF, but also see that I wide range of values is doable. I used the 1uF caps because I had some in my stock. Else I would have to add it to my current order that I am building up to Mouser. It's really painfull if you have to order $200 worth of stuff to get the $60 shipping free.
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Old 9th April 2013, 04:33 PM   #2973
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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A large range of values and qualities is doable. That is why there are pads to fit from film to lytic. It is just subjective.
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Old 14th April 2013, 01:56 PM   #2974
Corpius is offline Corpius  Netherlands
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Would it hurt if I feed the circuit with a signal that has DC offset beyond 5 mV and place some coupling caps behind the DCB1? Or will it be better to get rid of any DC before the signal enters the DCB1?

I plan to use some power amps that make use of coupling caps and I do not like the idea of having multiple (unnecessary) coupling caps in the signal path.
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Old 14th April 2013, 06:52 PM   #2975
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corpius View Post
I plan to use some power amps that make use of coupling caps and I do not like the idea of having multiple (unnecessary) coupling caps in the signal path.
One ac coupling in the chain should be enough.
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Old 26th April 2013, 08:06 PM   #2976
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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I got my RCore!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Questions on the hookup to 120 VAC

The wires to the fused IEC 120V. I have RED, YEL, GRN, ORG on the hookup side. What two do i wire to HOT(+) and what to Neut?

OUt the other side is the 15V to the DCB1. I have two BLU and two GRN wires on the RCORE output. Do I hook one GRN to the side O1 or O3, One BLU to the other side O1 or O3 and then a BLU and GRN to the center like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

I then have 1 more YEL/GRN. Does this YEL/GRN run to the IEC Ground?

Thanks for the help!!! I got side tracked with some speaker project build and now I'm back to this!!!
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Old 26th April 2013, 08:24 PM   #2977
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Red+green to live yellow+orange to neutral. Shield YEL/GRN goes to IEC ground. Output side has two blue and two green for 15+15V which is rather stupid because it does not help with identifying the middle wires as the windings go, so attach one green to one blue and make a middle point at random. If it buzzes at all combine another blue to another green. This Tx looks big and made for tube gear. Insulate the 320VAC HV outputs well and keep them properly tacked away. Use your DMM on AC to confirm that the 15-0-15VAC you created is there as expected on the wires to use before applying to DCB1.
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Old 26th April 2013, 08:41 PM   #2978
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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I think I follow you. I have a DMM. So I think I can check a green and blue and if I see the 15VAC then I have one of the pairs... Then if I check the other pair of green and blue I should see the other 15VAC

If I have the wrong combo of green and blue I won't get the 15VAC on the DMM

sound right?
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Old 26th April 2013, 08:50 PM   #2979
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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First insulate the 320-0-320VAC triplet and keep away from those. Then apply the primaries to the wall power as discussed. Then confirm the 15VAC blue pair and the 15VAC green pair with DMM as individual 15VAC lines. Unplug from the wall. Combine one blue to one green 15VAC wire. Plug to the wall again. Confirm that you got 30VAC across the remaining free blue and green wires. Confirm half that voltage from each free blue and green end to common pair end. If any buzz emanates from the Tx change the wires that make up the common to another combo of green and blue.
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Old 26th April 2013, 09:03 PM   #2980
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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Ok, I got ya. And I got ya on your "First insulate the 320-0-320VAC triplet and keep away from those." As in First - Don't kill yourself. Then apply the primaries.....

Thanks again Salas and have a good weekend
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