Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 285 - diyAudio
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Old 3rd March 2013, 08:10 AM   #2841
stajo is offline stajo  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post
For the "take a +12V auxiliary line from there" How do I ID the spot on the PCB where you are talking about?
Maybe you could use your meters as power on led instead of the led, just lowering the current resistor a bit.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 01:39 PM   #2842
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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Originally Posted by stajo View Post
Maybe you could use your meters as power on led instead of the led, just lowering the current resistor a bit.
I may have to... The bummer is that I already got the illuminated power switch.

Here is the tech sheet on the power switch... It looks like it does not pull much at all...

Illuminated Power switch
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Old 3rd March 2013, 01:51 PM   #2843
stajo is offline stajo  Sweden
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It looks like it does not pull much at all...
The button probably contains an ordinary LED and has a built in resistor for 12 V feed. 10-30 mA would be my guess. Do you feed the power on LED with that, and kept 2k2 resistor? Then I guess it doesnt light up the house? And you could measure the current by taking the voltage drop over the 2k2 res.

/Staffan
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Old 3rd March 2013, 01:56 PM   #2844
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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I am leaning towards hooking up both the Illuminated power switch and the VU meeter board to this spot:

Click the image to open in full size.

I do have a heat sink coming for the 7812... I am buying a kit from Teabag. Having the heatsink on the 7812 perhaps I can push having both the Illuminate power switch and the VU meeters? Salas mentioned this 7812 is the breaking point I think...
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:02 PM   #2845
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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The sink will give you more spare current leeway before cooking that reg chip. How much exactly I can only tell when having the sink's full spec.
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:04 PM   #2846
stajo is offline stajo  Sweden
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To my knowledge a 7812 takes well over 1 A sinked. You see were you have gnd. Its the copper lane that connects the centerpin of 7812 and the power on LEDs cathode. Between LED and the 12 V output from 7812 output pin you have a 2k2 current limiting resistor.

Dont think the copper lanes are designed for 1 A tho, but that you wont need.

Staffan

Last edited by stajo; 3rd March 2013 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Yea, Salas posted when I wrote
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:09 PM   #2847
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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I think this is the sink Teabag sends with his kits:

Heat Sink Specs
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:12 PM   #2848
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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PS - Teabag has upped the capacitors on the kits to 10,000uf 35v from 4700uf 25v... Not sure if that added capacitance changes things..
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Old 3rd March 2013, 02:16 PM   #2849
stajo is offline stajo  Sweden
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Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post
PS - Teabag has upped the capacitors on the kits to 10,000uf 35v from 4700uf 25v... Not sure if that added capacitance changes things..
Not in this case but its a good thing for hotrodders who does 2*15 V trafos. 25 V is licking its limits there since its ripple on the ingoing rectified 21ish voltage. Sure it is 2 times 10 000 per rail? They will most likely be big.

Staffan
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Old 3rd March 2013, 03:03 PM   #2850
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post
I think this is the sink Teabag sends with his kits:

Heat Sink Specs
It will rise 20c/0.5W. I would not ask the chip for more than 500mA on that sink with circa 20V raw dc in we got here.
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