Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 274 - diyAudio
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Old 23rd February 2013, 01:43 AM   #2731
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renron View Post
I've got my DCB1 Hotrod singing sweetly and playing nice with the rest of my system. I was using Broskie's 6SN7 as a pre and it was great, makes me sad that it will either only gather dust or be dismantled for parts...... , Not that sad. This is one piece that is staying in my system for a LONG time.
Thank you Salas! It sounds wonderful!
Enjoy the pics.
Ron
Very nice build and interesting front panel design. Enjoy.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 01:47 AM   #2732
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Originally Posted by dimkasta View Post
I also got some 0.2uF FT3s so at some point I will also change the led filters as well (currently the Wimas from Mike's kit)
Those will work in tonal combination with the output safety ones you use in your DC amp featuring system. If you will object to something when used straight over the Leds don't forget to combine a 47uF to 100uF of your liking across them.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 02:08 AM   #2733
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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Where did the power switch with the LED halo come from?
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Old 23rd February 2013, 11:11 AM   #2734
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Hello,
I am building DCB1 with 10R resistor hot-rod. I have a question about the rectifiers that i purchased. I bought (4) Cree Schottky Diode 1200V 2A because i read it could be a possible upgrade. This was posted by TeaBag in his initial Blog post regarding DCB1 "Blue". I see that the BOM calls for 8A rectifiers for HotRod (Mur860G). Just making sure the units i have will be optimal. I am trying to collect the highest quality parts available and have been taking my time on this build. What would be the optimal rectifier diode? I will be heatsinking them via a HeatSinkUSA product.

Thanks in advance,
Madison
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Old 23rd February 2013, 02:40 PM   #2735
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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Hi,

I'm seeing these that would look nice for a power switch... These have 4 tabs.. I can connect the positive of the 120 volt input AC to 2 tabs... Then the other 2 tabs are for the 12v LED light halo. Ideas where I could get the 12V to light up the switch?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 05:51 PM   #2736
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Mantha,
If that is a Bulgin switch then it should work just fine. The fit and finish on the Bulgin brand is outstanding, audio jewelry.
For others who asked about this switch.

I've used these switches for years and they work perfectly. Used to cost ~$25 now they're ~$15.
Bulgin MP0045/1E2BL012
Mouser has them.
3A at 250V should be more than enough
Caution, the info says that the LED is 12V. it is not. you WILL fry the led if you don't use the proper resistor in front of it. Bonus is you get to choose how bright you want the ring. Small soldering terminals is a minus but not impossible.
Yes, the TX is an Rcore. I bought it from DIYGene.
50W R Core Transformer,115V//230V, for Preamp,DAC/R26-x
I got the R26-34 model, quiet as a church mouse.
All kinds of ways to pull the 3VDC for the LED. Tap off one of the 0-15VDC after rectification, and use the proper resistor. And Bob's your uncle!
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3
"I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass.

Last edited by Renron; 23rd February 2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 06:43 PM   #2737
mantha3 is offline mantha3  United States
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Renron,

A big thank you for the scoop on the R-Core and the lighted switch. I'm going to run with both.

If you happen to know what resistor got ya down to the 3VDC let me know.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 07:38 PM   #2738
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madisonroberts View Post
Hello,
I am building DCB1 with 10R resistor hot-rod. I have a question about the rectifiers that i purchased. I bought (4) Cree Schottky Diode 1200V 2A because i read it could be a possible upgrade. This was posted by TeaBag in his initial Blog post regarding DCB1 "Blue". I see that the BOM calls for 8A rectifiers for HotRod (Mur860G). Just making sure the units i have will be optimal. I am trying to collect the highest quality parts available and have been taking my time on this build. What would be the optimal rectifier diode? I will be heatsinking them via a HeatSinkUSA product.

Thanks in advance,
Madison
We used the MUR860 because of its TO-220 packaging that can withstand temperature for dissipation high enough in max hot-rod in DCB1, not for its 8A handling. Its a popular part amongst subjectivists also. Any promising TO-220 type from 2A 100V upwards can make do. For 10R set resistors there will be no need for sinking the diodes.
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Old 23rd February 2013, 07:48 PM   #2739
Marra is offline Marra  United Kingdom
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This is a good link for working out the led resistor value.

LED calculator for single LEDs
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Old 23rd February 2013, 08:09 PM   #2740
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantha3 View Post
Hi,
Ideas where I could get the 12V to light up the switch?
There is 12V after 2k2 series resistor power-on LED supply already on the board where you had pointed the arrow in a recent picture of yours. Taking it from there includes the main filters supply drain time down to 13-14V dimming clue too.
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