Salas is there any recommendation for min and max value of those two (C1,C2) 100uf caps? I have 1000uf electrolyte of very good quality that I want to try in this position. Is this to much? and on the other hand I got 47uf film of good quality. Is this to little? What are the consequences of using more than 100uF or lest than 100uf in this position?
You may try both and decide subjectively. "Consequences" are not literal, its about noise or speed. We used either low uF film or 100uF in Hypnotize. Most used film. That was for a full preamp. For dam buffering stage and analog section powering (two birds with one stone) 470uF was good in a user's system.
I have done some experiments to soekris R2R and direct Vref powering.
I have tried reflectors and sslv with different caps combinations. It seems that as soon as you have good shunts for soekris it is ok. Sound is very very good in either case, almost the same, there are only maybe subtle changes.
Unlike powering I/V stages for pcm1704 and voltage out d/s chips like ak4490, where I could easily hear differences between using different shunts with different caps.
So far best what I found for Vref filtering is 4 pin cap like in the picture. It is clarity cap 100uf. It is better than 2 pin 1000uf electrolyte and other 2 pin polypropylenes. It has definitely best bass response and clarity. Now I am waiting for Mundorf 1000uf 4 pin to come and put them for Vref filtering in reflectors and then use them for Vref powering in soekris and see how it sounds.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6ABkj8ryEeLU1Q1NUNJTXk3bUhObHdBRTBQUXRKOGdUSHhR
I have tried reflectors and sslv with different caps combinations. It seems that as soon as you have good shunts for soekris it is ok. Sound is very very good in either case, almost the same, there are only maybe subtle changes.
Unlike powering I/V stages for pcm1704 and voltage out d/s chips like ak4490, where I could easily hear differences between using different shunts with different caps.
So far best what I found for Vref filtering is 4 pin cap like in the picture. It is clarity cap 100uf. It is better than 2 pin 1000uf electrolyte and other 2 pin polypropylenes. It has definitely best bass response and clarity. Now I am waiting for Mundorf 1000uf 4 pin to come and put them for Vref filtering in reflectors and then use them for Vref powering in soekris and see how it sounds.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6ABkj8ryEeLU1Q1NUNJTXk3bUhObHdBRTBQUXRKOGdUSHhR
The 4pin type reduces the inductance of the lead ins and lead outs compared to the conventional 2pin capacitors.
The performance effect you are seeing is down to this reduction in inductance. This allows the capacitor to work more like an ideal capacitor, so you get better capacitor behaviour.
The performance effect you are seeing is down to this reduction in inductance. This allows the capacitor to work more like an ideal capacitor, so you get better capacitor behaviour.
Hi, becuse i'm lost in this infinite tread, please remember me some things
1) wich resistors and in what prioryty is better to change to increase the results (i'll buy z-foil)
2) what's the best resistor value for a 50K pot?
3)it's better to use a pair of obbligato gold 0.22uf instead thet the red wima or a silmicII 100uf?
1000 thanks to anyone who helps!
1) wich resistors and in what prioryty is better to change to increase the results (i'll buy z-foil)
2) what's the best resistor value for a 50K pot?
3)it's better to use a pair of obbligato gold 0.22uf instead thet the red wima or a silmicII 100uf?
1000 thanks to anyone who helps!
z-foils are insanely expensive for a resistor. Well yes if you want to use them use it but the most important thing is that do you have such speakers and cables which can reveal the difference for your investment? Like ribbon based tweeters and Jfet input based class A amplifiers and a very decent power conditioner and most importantly the room has got acoustics?
If not then investing on the zfoil will have very low benefits instead look at capacitor cooking for the different tonal characteristics.
Zfoil if you really want to use use at the input of the preamp and or in feedback loop of the preamp if its not buffer.
Vishay RN55 or 60 are very decent performers I would recommend it to you in first place than zfoils.
Hi, thanks for your advices, i really think that my sistem, in a dedicate room, could deserve some z-foil...
Anyway, if i found i'll try vishay rn55/60 as you suggest!
Changing the 220R can certainly change the sound. I like PRP or TX2575 here.
I have changed the .22uf cap from Wima to a few others. I like the Wima's the best. Most neutral. The Nichicon Muse 100uf are more neutralsounding than the Silimic2 in the same place. If you want it to sounds warmer, go with Silimics, and 220K resistors (or whatever shunt) do carbon film or Caddock MK132.
.22UF Mundorf EVO SIO sound brighter than the Wimas. The biggest sounds improvement i recommend is to run it as hot as possible. 1.5R-3.3R will make it sounds more focused and spacious.
My 2c.
I have changed the .22uf cap from Wima to a few others. I like the Wima's the best. Most neutral. The Nichicon Muse 100uf are more neutralsounding than the Silimic2 in the same place. If you want it to sounds warmer, go with Silimics, and 220K resistors (or whatever shunt) do carbon film or Caddock MK132.
.22UF Mundorf EVO SIO sound brighter than the Wimas. The biggest sounds improvement i recommend is to run it as hot as possible. 1.5R-3.3R will make it sounds more focused and spacious.
My 2c.
Ok, thanks for suggestions, this is what i'm gonna do:
15-0-15 100W power transformer
22000uf MUNDORF MLYTIC
2*3R3 5W MILLS OR OHMITE (if someone tested it please let me know)
4*470R TAKMAN CARBON FILM
4*220R Z-FOIL
The problem remain for the 2*680k (instead 220K) and 2*1M, i'm not able to find caddock at a reasonable price, so i'm thinking to use TAKMAN METAL or SHINKOH TANTALUM, what's your suggestion?
As regard 0.22 caps i'll try a 0.022 russian teflon bypass for first!!!
15-0-15 100W power transformer
22000uf MUNDORF MLYTIC
2*3R3 5W MILLS OR OHMITE (if someone tested it please let me know)
4*470R TAKMAN CARBON FILM
4*220R Z-FOIL
The problem remain for the 2*680k (instead 220K) and 2*1M, i'm not able to find caddock at a reasonable price, so i'm thinking to use TAKMAN METAL or SHINKOH TANTALUM, what's your suggestion?
As regard 0.22 caps i'll try a 0.022 russian teflon bypass for first!!!
@factory2nd
sounds nice, although i suggest to use more resistors parallel for setting the bias. The resistor is quite close to the MLYTICs and would get really really hot.
At the moment i am using Mundorf MCap Supreme Evo capacitors for the 0.22F and Takman carbon resistors for the 220R but plan to do some changes in the future, so please make some comments when you are finished!
Has someone tried the takman metal film for the 220R?
sounds nice, although i suggest to use more resistors parallel for setting the bias. The resistor is quite close to the MLYTICs and would get really really hot.
At the moment i am using Mundorf MCap Supreme Evo capacitors for the 0.22F and Takman carbon resistors for the 220R but plan to do some changes in the future, so please make some comments when you are finished!
Has someone tried the takman metal film for the 220R?
3.3ohm 5W resistor is not sufficient as the calulations as below.
To have sustained current in the load and if your supply varies then its recommended to run at about 24V supply and in that case
as per your 3.3ohm resistor the current is about 2Amps and the dissipation of that resistor is about 17W so take about 3 times for safer operation.
so you need a trafo which is 18V for a secondary and on the safer side use 6Amp per rail so total you need approx 200VA trafo and take 3 x 10ohm 15W resistor and parallel for the CCS resistor.
Mundorf 22000uf is a good choice.
15-0-15 VAC Transfo is enough for AC variation when having 10V DC rails. 18-0-18 will rise the CCS MOSFET dissipation much for no reason. I never recommended to use a 18-0-18 for a DCB1. Especially wrong practice when hot rodded.
How a 3.3R will dissipate 17W? That would take 5.15V across it. The current setting resistor at high 2A current will need be 0.3 Ohm and will only have around 0.6V across. With three 1.8V red Leds and textbook Vgs curve IRFP MOSFETs that is. A Caddock MP900 series power resistor with a small clip on heatsink will do fine. A 3.3 Ohm will do 390-425mA and will have 1.3-1.4V across.
How a 3.3R will dissipate 17W? That would take 5.15V across it. The current setting resistor at high 2A current will need be 0.3 Ohm and will only have around 0.6V across. With three 1.8V red Leds and textbook Vgs curve IRFP MOSFETs that is. A Caddock MP900 series power resistor with a small clip on heatsink will do fine. A 3.3 Ohm will do 390-425mA and will have 1.3-1.4V across.
question regarding 2sk170 BL. Excuse me if this is the wrong place.
I bought a bunch online to try and get closer quads than what I received with my kits. I heard that there were a bunch of fakes floating around, how would I know if they were fakes? The package is the same size. The leads look the same.
The things that make me question it are; the font is a little off, there is a little bit of material from the molding process were the leads meet the package, the circle notch on the back id s lot deeper than the originals that I received. The IDSS measured between 9.8ma - 12.6ma.
From what I've read about the fakes, they measure closer to 18-20ma, and hard to read printing.
If there is another resource, or thread somewhere, a link would be appreciated, thanks
I bought a bunch online to try and get closer quads than what I received with my kits. I heard that there were a bunch of fakes floating around, how would I know if they were fakes? The package is the same size. The leads look the same.
The things that make me question it are; the font is a little off, there is a little bit of material from the molding process were the leads meet the package, the circle notch on the back id s lot deeper than the originals that I received. The IDSS measured between 9.8ma - 12.6ma.
From what I've read about the fakes, they measure closer to 18-20ma, and hard to read printing.
If there is another resource, or thread somewhere, a link would be appreciated, thanks
