Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

Aleph J is nicer tonally and has more composure in more difficult loads I think. F5 sounds quicker. Its also a matter of system integration deciding on which to pick. I have listened to both but not to the turbo.

Ok, so i had a closer look on the manuals of both amps. Beside, the quite low value of 13W @ 4Ohm speakers (as my actual one), especially the input impedance with 240k is much higher compared to 100k of the F5. In the Aleph J manual it says that it should work quite good with a tube preamp. Whats with the combination DCB1/Alpeh-J?
 
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100K is high enough too, good for any tube preamp. DCB1 & Aleph J play well together because there is more gain in J than F5 maybe. I find the J more relaxed especially when with bit harsher recordings. Maybe the single ended and Aleph biased nature. But in your case F5 Turbo could be the better choice since there is more power than F5 even but has more gain than J too. Have a look in Juma's DIY Cubies also. They stand well balanced in enough critical attributes IMHO.
 
Ok, thanks for the answers! Well, i live in a flat so i think the F5 (so not the turbo version) would have enough power for my needs. Anyway, i am really interested in the Aleph J as well.

One last question: I thought, a smaller impedance of the speaker would give me more watts in the end. Is it the otherway with the Alpeh J as it is a voltage source amp and so because of ohms law the voltage is smaller using a smaller "resistor" (=speaker)?

I really can't say how "loud" 13 Watts would be :(
 
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J with SE output and less damping factor will allow more relaxed tone in a system who someone feels it can tend to stressful. But if that is not the case and more power is needed in lower impedance then F5 is better choice. Although the J is not powerful in low loads it sounds warmer to me with difficult speakers if the output power is still enough due to they are sensitive or the room is small or the listening is done in medium levels.
 
Ok, thanks for the answers! Well, i live in a flat so i think the F5 (so not the turbo version) would have enough power for my needs. Anyway, i am really interested in the Aleph J as well.

One last question: I thought, a smaller impedance of the speaker would give me more watts in the end. Is it the otherway with the Alpeh J as it is a voltage source amp and so because of ohms law the voltage is smaller using a smaller "resistor" (=speaker)?

I really can't say how "loud" 13 Watts would be :(
I have dcb1 and AJ, with 3way speaker 88dB 4ohm, using 25k pot i usually set volume control to 12 until 13 o'clock in my small bedroom. Maximum measured on AJ output is 0.9Vac, thats very loud. I had tested using 1 speaker only and maximum volume that I can use is at 15 o'clock position, means there are still headroom available.

So dont worry, 13W is loud, even with my SIT which is lower watt (maybe 5W) I still never turn to full volume pot.

Better you buy 5U chassis and build FW psu first, then you can test different FW amplifier, AJ/F5/F6/M2
 
my build

I finished my balanced dcb1 some time ago, but never posted a picture - but here it is.

I made a balanced version (two boards) with a stepped volume control sold by earfanatic on diyaudio (I think he does not sell them anymore) which includes a remote control. I used naked resistors on the output and Russian teflon FT3 as bypass caps. Signal-cabling is Neotech silver.

The boards are on a thick aluminium plate (about 1.5cm) and some heatsinks are installed on the plate as well, hotrodding is at level 2 (600mA). This all goes to about 35 degrees when in operation.

Sound is glorious ... much better than what I expected.

Thanks Salas and all to make this possible and for all your help on the forum.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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I finished my balanced dcb1 some time ago, but never posted a picture - but here it is.

I made a balanced version (two boards) with a stepped volume control sold by earfanatic on diyaudio (I think he does not sell them anymore) which includes a remote control. I used naked resistors on the output and Russian teflon FT3 as bypass caps. Signal-cabling is Neotech silver.

The boards are on a thick aluminium plate (about 1.5cm) and some heatsinks are installed on the plate as well, hotrodding is at level 2 (600mA). This all goes to about 35 degrees when in operation.

Sound is glorious ... much better than what I expected.

Thanks Salas and all to make this possible and for all your help on the forum.
Thank you very much and congratulations! I know that dual DCB1s balanced configuration and specialized passive components choice can be an expensive enough thing to build but repeated positive feedback including yours persists that is well worth it. So I wish you many years of happy listening sessions with it. What comprises the rest of your system by the way?
 
Thanks Salas for the nice words.

I attach a picture of the rest of my system. I just finished building a beta24 power amp from amb.org, this one also sounds glorious. DAC is a dcs debussy with a puccinini clock. Speakers are gallo reference 3.5 and most signal cabling is Neotech silver. Musicsever is based on mpdpup and a USB isloation card by SOTM, powered by two diy linear power supplies. The diy pre- and poweramp replaces a Pass INT150, the sound of the separates is just plain better. :D
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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I know your thoughts, you want high current signal devices very low impedance thing. But so many are super happy with DCB1 for so many years across so many notable systems that's futile even I to try argue it's not nice just for fun. They will flame me :D

Wait for DCG3. You may like that one better instead.