Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 250 - diyAudio
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Old 28th November 2012, 06:14 PM   #2491
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Well B1 and DCB1 are buffers, so unity gain either way. Hotrod or not.

About the Hotroding part, as it is used in this thread it refers to the current passed from the Salas shunt PSU and not the biasing of the buffer jfets.

Hotroding benefits from my experience are similar to the effects that bigger transformers have. In general terms imagine it supplying more current so that circuit can work with less limitations. A good analogy I like mentioning to help understand this better is the difference between the words "enough" and "plenty".
Generally speaking you should initially expect a boost in the "power" and clarity of sound and as you increase it further you start getting more separation and better imaging. Of course diminishing returns come at play fast and it all is a matter of general synergy with the rest of your system, so your experience might vary.
Definitely worth the effort.

Last edited by dimkasta; 28th November 2012 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 28th November 2012, 06:18 PM   #2492
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hot rod does not change the amplifier, the B1 part.

Hot rod refers to the shunt regulator part.
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Old 28th November 2012, 06:37 PM   #2493
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Quote:
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it is quite long and technical, so I am slowly catching up. Please be patient with me.


Also, I see that there are several configurations that can be set up. One is a unity gain buffer. That is what I plan on using mine for.

But if someone could offer some insights it would be most appreciated!
Just because ive got an nearly stuffed Mezmerize in my projectsbox and i plan to mate it to paradise phono.
Is there or will there be somewhere a guide with the dos and donts for one dummy to build it properly ?
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Old 28th November 2012, 06:47 PM   #2494
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The thread that helped me a lot is this
DC-Coupled B1 Buffer Build

And of course check the pdfs in Tea-Bag's blog entry
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Old 29th November 2012, 05:35 PM   #2495
KT is offline KT  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimkasta View Post
Well B1 and DCB1 are buffers, so unity gain either way. Hotrod or not.

About the Hotroding part, as it is used in this thread it refers to the current passed from the Salas shunt PSU and not the biasing of the buffer jfets.

Hotroding benefits from my experience are similar to the effects that bigger transformers have... Definitely worth the effort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
Hot rod does not change the amplifier, the B1 part.

Hot rod refers to the shunt regulator part.
Thanks, guys. This really explains a lot. I'm very eager to hear more about everyone's builds as they burn in. Very cool!
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Old 29th November 2012, 09:27 PM   #2496
mjock3 is offline mjock3  United States
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My project was going well for a few months and then stopped working. All LEDs appear to be on. I checked input voltage and it was about 350mv on the inputs. On the outputs I get about 35mv. Where is a good place to start looking as to the cause?

Thanks
Swapped the relay, still the same problem, any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 29th November 2012, 11:18 PM   #2497
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Check if supplies and audio Jfets are good.
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Old 30th November 2012, 11:34 PM   #2498
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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My project was delayed (again), the faceplate had to be left at the powdercoaters due to a scratch on the face, it was just laying around....so it got damaged. Once it's back in my hands then it's off to the engravers for details and scripting. I'll post pictures when it get back from there.
Ron
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Old 1st December 2012, 07:40 AM   #2499
KT is offline KT  United States
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So I've been using Tupperware-type containers as low cost, easy to work cases for low voltage/low heat circuits like DACs, Class D amps, and autoformer volume controls. Some of the nicer food containers, like the red and white ones from Ikea, actually make very handome cases, if somewhat tongue-in-cheek ones.

So I'm thinking for my first build of Tea Bag's red, white, and black kit from the GB, I'm going to build it with the specified components. This is simply so I actually get it built rather than scheming to collect all the parts for a hot rod build and then never getting around to it. I also want to see what the stock design has to offer before going hot rod.

Will the stock circuit run cool enough that I could put it in one of those food containers safely? They do get pretty hot in the microwave when reheating food, though that's a wet heat. If so, I do realize that I'd have to move it to another case for a hot rod build.
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Old 1st December 2012, 11:16 AM   #2500
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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A standard DCB1 has a current through the CCS of ~60mA.
The transformer is recommended as 15Vac+15Vac, 30 to 50VA.
That gives a total dissipation of ~44Vdc*0.06Adc + transformer losses = 2.6W + 2W = <5W
If you hot rod then that dissipation can increase ten fold.

That heat, whether standard or hot rod, has to get out of the enclosure !
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