Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 248 - diyAudio
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Old 26th November 2012, 11:23 PM   #2471
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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dimkasta what speakers you drive in that system, pls remind me?
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Old 27th November 2012, 07:23 AM   #2472
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Offset you mean mV?
A photo of the case should help us see any possible solutions to your trafo real estate problem.
yep, it's mV of course
I'll make few pics on this week later.

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I finally wired everything together on the chassis.
what was the previous pre paired in you system with Elektrocompaniet?

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... Ebay R-Cores are a gamble. When made right its the best solution, when not, a downright failure for heating and buzzing. Feeling lucky on the one you linked?
thanks, Salas! in that case I wouldn't consider any r-core at all
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Thus they should be coming from the same manufacturer and be same model having very low tolerances between them, and they should be wired with same magnetic polarity.
that wouldn't be a problem I think. Thanks for the article, I'll take a look later.

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But you already have 630mA on average which is decent hot rod in the compact. Another option would be a 100VA single toroid in another box, saving you the hum field also.
nahhh, I'm eager for some really hot stuff, at least 1.2A So that the whole case would be hot (about 55c, more as you've mentioned is not a good idea).
I was thinking about separate PS box, but then decided not to have one as my heatsinks would be definitely to small for 2A current and 200VA toroid that I would have put there I'll add some copper or Mu-metal for shielding if noise happens to be a problem.
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Old 27th November 2012, 07:29 AM   #2473
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@salas
I have a pair of PBN Montana EP Signature

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I had an Audio Research LS-25 for about 2 years and for the last year I had a Klimo Merlin.
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Old 27th November 2012, 05:50 PM   #2474
KT is offline KT  United States
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Wow, very good, Dimitri. The box is a LOT bigger than I thought it was. Looks very good.

I like your description of the sound. You may have said earlier, but which Caddocks are you using? Have you tried the Vishay Z-Foil? I wonder how they compare.

I'm building a DCB1 at some point and am looking to hotrod it as well. I wonder how some of the more euphonic resistors, like Rikens, Kiwames, etc., fare in the critical signal positions?

Thanks for sharing!

Last edited by KT; 27th November 2012 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 27th November 2012, 05:57 PM   #2475
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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KT, I believe he is using Caddock Power resistors in the Power resistor position.
I think you will find that the signal section resistors 220,220k will take on a different sound signature with various resistors. I found carbon films to modify the sound too much for my taste, but others really liked the Takman's if there system was already too hard sounding.
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:42 PM   #2476
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Thanks KT

As Mike said, I use Caddocks on the PSU Rset position. They are MP930.
The signal ones are the PRPs that Mike included in the kit.

For the moment it's still breaking in and it sounds a bit over-analytic and harsh. I would love to get some more strength on the mid-lows to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside

I have the Z-Foils and a better pot scheduled for a bit later, but if it gets a bit warmer in a week or so I would really consider leaving it as it is now
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:50 PM   #2477
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Originally Posted by Tea-Bag View Post
I think you will find that the signal section resistors 220,220k will take on a different sound signature with various resistors.
Mike are the 220K ones quality sensitive as well? If I remember correctly they are not in series with signal.
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:53 PM   #2478
KT is offline KT  United States
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OK, great to know. I'll have to consider those Caddock MP930's. Good to hear the regular PRPs give a good sound. Please give an update once the parts burn in and loosen up.

I can't wait to see the case with the maple knob installed!
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Old 27th November 2012, 06:56 PM   #2479
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Thanks KT

For the moment it's still breaking in and it sounds a bit over-analytic and harsh. I would love to get some more strength on the mid-lows to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside
This was my reaction exactly - I built three and the one that was the least objectionable in this regard used Nichicon Super-through power caps and Amtrans resistors in the signal path. I didn't use anything special for R101.
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Old 27th November 2012, 07:39 PM   #2480
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Originally Posted by dimkasta View Post
Thanks KT

As Mike said, I use Caddocks on the PSU Rset position. They are MP930.
The signal ones are the PRPs that Mike included in the kit.

For the moment it's still breaking in and it sounds a bit over-analytic and harsh. I would love to get some more strength on the mid-lows to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside

I have the Z-Foils and a better pot scheduled for a bit later, but if it gets a bit warmer in a week or so I would really consider leaving it as it is now
Use thin coax shielded wire. Open signal cabling loop catches stuff. And there are toroids about. That buffer passes 150-200kHz square wave. That translates to near or over a MHZ -3dB depending on pot source impedance. Also the red caps are very influential, maybe you like 47uF to 220uF good electrolytic or another film cap there. Its just a Wima now.
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