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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
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Old 25th November 2012, 06:09 PM   #2451
dimkasta is offline dimkasta  Greece
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More work today... Took me more than I expected... that damn thermal paste is all over the place

The chassis is glued together and finished with 120 grit sandpaper (It feels way smoother than it sounds...). I also put a layer of oil/wax and the wood got a nice dark color. The damn photo again is not doing it justice. I plan to do an additional layer tomorrow and after it dries I will put everything together.

Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build-dim_1316-jpg

You can also see the side vents and the spikes. I intent to make some smaller plates for them.

Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build-dim_1312-jpg

The heatsinks were properly screwed in place along with the Caddocks that are now below the pcb screwed to the plate themselves.

I also removed all wiring to replace it with pure silver and I added a white led which will show on the front panel.
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File Type: jpg DIM_1312.jpg (218.8 KB, 562 views)
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Old 25th November 2012, 06:19 PM   #2452
Tea-Bag is offline Tea-Bag  United States
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
that chassis looks nice!
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Old 25th November 2012, 10:08 PM   #2453
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
@dimkasta

Lets see how it turns out for new parts subjective synergy and closed lid temp then.
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Old 25th November 2012, 11:18 PM   #2454
Erlend Sæterdal is offline Erlend Sæterdal  Denmark
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea-Bag View Post
that chassis looks nice!
Depends on the eyes !
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Old 26th November 2012, 01:35 AM   #2455
dimkasta is offline dimkasta  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erlend Sæterdal View Post
Depends on the eyes !
Sorry I didn t build one more aluminum faceplate with heatsink sides
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Old 26th November 2012, 08:46 AM   #2456
dtses is offline dtses
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Originally Posted by dtses View Post
I've read that kapton & mica are the best insulation between device and heatsink. Tried to find the link, but was unlucky.
found some info in the net. It's 0.71 1 W/(m.K) for Mica and 0.6 for Kapton or even 0.12, though not sure if these are the right values for my tape...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
...Or two inputs and a switch to dcb1 in. One input going through the attenuator, another directly to dcb1.
thanks!

I have few pics of mine as well. I've run it for half of an hour with 3R css resistors. What could I say, it was about 60c on this tiny toroid (just confirmed what Andrew said dozen of pages ago), 80c on CSS Rs, 75c on mosfets, 60c on MUR860s, 55c on the sinks. I'll get some M2 bolts to attach mosfets properly on this week and continue with preliminary burnings tests

Last pic shows the layout, please let me know if it's decent enough?! toroid will be replaced with something <80mm width & <55mm height (probably should be some custom narrow 80VA or 65VA r-core transformer).

Yet another thing to clarify As my goal is >=1A (I need >65VA transformer), would it be good to add additional solid 10mm aluminum plates to the heatsinks (as on pic 2) or perhaps to add a solid 10x160x250mm plate to the bottom? What I want is to win some several hundreds mA more to burn it even harder

dimkasta
very nice chassis!
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File Type: jpg IMG_0239.jpg (721.5 KB, 260 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0248.jpg (920.7 KB, 179 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0251.jpg (962.4 KB, 177 views)

Last edited by dtses; 26th November 2012 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 26th November 2012, 09:07 AM   #2457
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
After you will have the Mosfets properly bolted on sinks and final CCS current of choice, we will know the temperatures on sinks and Mosfet cases you will measure. From there we will be able to judge if they will be safe conditions in the long run or you will need to upgrade thermals either for pads or for extra metal.
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Old 26th November 2012, 09:13 AM   #2458
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
*See to give the MUR diodes some contact to the metal floor if not bothering to bolt and insulate individually which can be PITA. An insulating strip running their tabs and a bracket pressing them all together on their plastic cases maybe. Matters at the current level you aim at.
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Old 26th November 2012, 09:24 AM   #2459
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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How much voltage you got now across the current setting resistors on average?
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Old 26th November 2012, 10:30 AM   #2460
dtses is offline dtses
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*See to give the MUR diodes some contact to the metal floor if not bothering to bolt and insulate individually which can be PITA.
thanks! is it safe to keep them above 60c? Anyway I was planning to attach them to the chassis.

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How much voltage you got now across the current setting resistors on average?
it's 2.02 &1.85vdc with 2 x 6R per rail. So it's >600mA now. Not sure how much more could I get from the trafo as it's already on the edge to my understanding

I'll assemble the bottom lid and heatsinks and make the proper measurements. Will see then how far could I go.
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