Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 223 - diyAudio
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:23 PM   #2221
jeff517 is offline jeff517  United States
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I'm 99% positive I've got it all put together correctly. Like I said 99% but I always look for MY mistakes first. I'm going to replace cap and see what happens. I do remember all leds lit up the one side went dark and then my son said "Hey Dad! It's smoking!" he thinks I'm crazy for doing this as he thinks everything computer is where it's at.
I'll let you know what happens.
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:28 PM   #2222
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Check the 3 Leds groups, they use the opposite shape pad to the 5 strong groups for anode or cathode. Basically follow the semi circle. Flat side is cathode, i.e. the short leg on an non clipped LED.
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:33 PM   #2223
jeff517 is offline jeff517  United States
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All as it should be. maybe bad cap? truth is stranger than fiction...
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:34 PM   #2224
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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But you say all lit up. Maybe a Mosfet gone instantly? Are they OK for types and pcb sides? Inspect their writing on their cases carefully, they stamp it lightly some times or use laser.
Fuse it low and try again. All Mosfets should show a bit lower than 4V between their G, S pins or there about.
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:37 PM   #2225
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff517 View Post
All as it should be. maybe bad cap? truth is stranger than fiction...
Don't know how bad a cap can come to blow instantly, I have heard some stories but never occured to me so dodgy. Take out a pair, the bad and its opposite side mate, run it on two cylinders to see.
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Old 6th October 2012, 08:42 PM   #2226
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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See also if a diode is bad as I wrote before, don't forget those. They all should show a forward drop.
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Old 7th October 2012, 07:37 PM   #2227
atupi is offline atupi  Romania
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Found some kind a cheap BG STD but only 220uf/16v. Would they be good for the DCB1 or i should remain stick to 100uf?
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Old 7th October 2012, 07:58 PM   #2228
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Stick to 100uF. Silmic II black sleeve or Nichicon Muse KZ.
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Old 10th October 2012, 11:18 AM   #2229
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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bulb tester in the supply for all new and modified builds using mains power.
Test each in stages. Transformer, then transformer+rectifier/s, then transformer+rectifier+smoothing cap, etc......
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regards Andrew T.
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Old 30th October 2012, 10:44 PM   #2230
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After a few months of having Tea-Bag's kit on the side collecting dust, I finally decided it s time to get something more than a plain pot for my system. (I really don t like the passive approach with my setup)

The parts were soldered as proposed on the thread and the guides. The leds were measured at 5,61V and 9,35V per side.
Unfortunately my DMM's mA measurement is fubar and I am a bit lazy to make any resistor/voltage based setup, so I will have to trust Tea-Bag's matching kind-of blindly (marked as 8,3x mA)...

The kit came with 10R resistors so 1st level hotrod (for now).

Click the image to open in full size.

The fets and the diodes will be soldered after the bottom plate is drilled and the components insulated and screwed in place (here they are layed around randomly).

The bottom will be a 40cm x 40cm aluminum plate 5mm thick and with around 3cms bent on each side to allow for easier and sturdier side mounting.

Click the image to open in full size.

The target is to get it eventually to 2nd tier or a bit more, depending on how well the aluminum plate will dissipate the heat (Any comments on how feasible is that without any extra side heatsinks?).

I am too tired to play with mains now, so I will have to do the final drilling soldering and testing tomorrow.

The test transformer will be a Hammond 2x12V @ 120VA. The hammonds run a bit on the low side of voltages also, so I will have to get a proper 15V one eventually.
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