He is already in stage 1 hot rod I believe. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...hotrodded-blue-dcb1-build-29.html#post2299740
That´s correct. The 10R´s are installed with about 200mA per rail.
Interesting to know if somebody tried the 3R3 Version with ~600mA vs. the 10R ~200mA.
Salas,
here is the diagram from my heatsink:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What do you think i could max. burn to my shorted to 60mm heatsink per rail?
Stage 0 = circa 75-85mA Ecological and cool. Smart car territory, the twin 47R 1W marked on the Blue and no or mini sinks will do.
Stage 1 = circa 200mA. Boosted enough, all purpose, some logical sinks. Standard Blue HR, Golf GTI territory. 4W dissipation per rail. 10R 5W.
Stage 2 = circa 600mA. Increased grip and pull back, Porsche stuff. 12W dissipation per rail. Sinks like for a 30W class A/B amp. 3R3 5W.
Stage 3 = circa 2A. No holds sense, Enzo feel. 40W dissipation per rail. F5 size sinks & Tx. 1R 12W.
Sorry to hijack this thread. If I want to do "stage 1" with the black board; what do I need to do? ...type of transformer, resistors to change, anything else?
Not more than you burn now. Did you check the temperature on your sinks? If having a DVM with thermal sensor function or a standalone tool should be 50C +/- 5% now?
I will check this.
Many builds in the black boards original thread. One 10R 5W instead of 68//68 at the edges and bigger sinks. 30-50VA Tx is more than enough.
Thanks a lot! ...and to be crystal clear... ...do I need 2x15V or 2x12V ?
Salas, I have been using a 2x12vAC tx so far, which is more like 12.5vAC here in the UK, and so far so good as my rails are only 9vDC, but I want to go to 10vDC and I'm wondering if one of those eBay R-core jobs with 4 sets of secondaries 2x9vAC 2x15vAC would be good for me? I could use one of the 9vAC lines for powering 5vDC Lightspeed etc.
The 15V lines are .5A each, and DCB1 Hotrod is about .4A - too close or OK?
The 15V lines are .5A each, and DCB1 Hotrod is about .4A - too close or OK?
Salas, I have been using a 2x12vAC tx so far, which is more like 12.5vAC here in the UK, and so far so good as my rails are only 9vDC, but I want to go to 10vDC and I'm wondering if one of those eBay R-core jobs with 4 sets of secondaries 2x9vAC 2x15vAC would be good for me? I could use one of the 9vAC lines for powering 5vDC Lightspeed etc.
The 15V lines are .5A each, and DCB1 Hotrod is about .4A - too close or OK?
I don't know about the core quality and bobbins alignment of the ebay R trafos. They look the shape but beyond that I am clueless. I had a bad experience with a multi secondary one that had high and low outputs for a valve pre kit a mate bought from China and was boiling and buzzing and ducking voltage. But that was like 2 years ago and came as a part of that kit. The stage 1 native blue hotrod is 0.2A each rail not 0.4A.
Ah yes, of course, I'll be using both of those secondaries, so it's plenty. Doh!
Perhaps a valve heater & anode supply is a bit more complex, as they both output such different voltages.
I think I'll take a leap of faith, as it should power up the DCB1, Mezmerize Channel switcher, Lightspeed and Remote Control unit, all in one transformer! Perfect, if it works....
Perhaps a valve heater & anode supply is a bit more complex, as they both output such different voltages.
I think I'll take a leap of faith, as it should power up the DCB1, Mezmerize Channel switcher, Lightspeed and Remote Control unit, all in one transformer! Perfect, if it works....
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Ah yes, of course, I'll be using both of those secondaries, so it's plenty. Doh!
Perhaps a valve heater & anode supply is a bit more complex, as they both output such different voltages.
I think I'll take a leap of faith, as it should power up the DCB1, Mezmerize Channel switcher, Lightspeed and Remote Control unit, all in one transformer! Perfect, if it works....
Is it this one? 220V/115V 30W R-Core Transformer for preamp 9V*2 15V*2 on eBay (end time 27-Sep-10 18:52:40 BST)
Interesting to know if somebody tried the 3R3 Version with ~600mA vs. the 10R 200ma
Oliver check out post #1785 and #1792 from Member Wushuliu
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/145201-building-symmetrical-psu-b1-buffer-179.html
Yeah, that's the one. Looks pretty well made to me. 1/10th the level of EMI I'm told.
Salas, The Atlantis will be on the road by the end of today, I hope. I'm just waiting on finishing up the pre-amp Then, if all goes well, I'll post pictures and sing your name in the streets and the hilltops
Speakers are Celestion Ditton 44s from 1977 with nicely rebuilt crossovers. This was the golden age for Celestion, They're a sealed unit, 3-way with 12" paper cone bass driver, 3"paper mids and new Seas 19mm tweeters. They're pretty lush. Like a Tannoy Gold monitor but with a sweeter midrange and lighter touch treble. Same awesome bass - they go down to 23Hz before rolling off. They're also considerably cheaper to buy. Why do you ask?
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Not more than you burn now. Did you check the temperature on your sinks? If having a DVM with thermal sensor function or a standalone tool should be 50C +/- 5% now?
If i am not wrong, the 600mA version should work:
Tj max: 150°C; Room Temp. max 40°C; 12W dissipation; Tjc max: 0.83°C/W x2; Kapton insulator washer: 0,07 K/W x2
Rth= (150-40)/12-1.66-1.68= 5.83 K/W
My heatsink with 60mm has a Rth of ~4.25 K/W.
Did i calculate right?
Best,
Oliver
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Salas, I have been using a 2x12vAC tx so far, which is more like 12.5vAC here in the UK, and so far so good as my rails are only 9vDC, but I want to go to 10vDC and I'm wondering if one of those eBay R-core jobs with 4 sets of secondaries 2x9vAC 2x15vAC would be good for me? I could use one of the 9vAC lines for powering 5vDC Lightspeed etc.
The 15V lines are .5A each, and DCB1 Hotrod is about .4A - too close or OK?
Lucas
Just to re-assure you, the R-cores you mention are actually very good. I have been thinking the same as you and will get one for my DCB1 build. I already have one of the R-cores for a DAC and it works well.
The R26-34 is the one. The secondaries are slightly higher than stated, so it will be something like 2 x 0 - 11V / 2 x 0 - 17V
They are slightly cheaper here:
DIYCLUB
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