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Old 25th April 2012, 07:43 PM   #1931
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BUT, this thread is dealing with the HR - DCB1 with a Salas Regulator.

The transformers regulation is taken care of with the Salas Reg.
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Old 25th April 2012, 11:09 PM   #1932
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atupi View Post
Today i soldered only the buffer for testing and tomorrow i will continue with the shunt regulators and i have made some tests with two 9v batteries.
What can be the reason of this high dc on the output, unmatched fets, uneven rails voltage ?
Both, or you misread the scale? Else its too much offset if all is correctly done on first look. Are the Jfets certified originals?
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Old 26th April 2012, 09:36 AM   #1933
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hi, i think i should post my question here.

i have my DCB1 runs normal for a long time, but suddenly some problem happen on positive side: the resistor at 2x68r is so hot that cannot be touch and the 3 leds has very small light

It is no problem on the negative side and the output voltage was normal at +10.3v / -10.6v

what may be wrong?
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Old 30th April 2012, 03:09 AM   #1934
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Originally Posted by totohung View Post
hi, i think i should post my question here.

i have my DCB1 runs normal for a long time, but suddenly some problem happen on positive side: the resistor at 2x68r is so hot that cannot be touch and the 3 leds has very small light

It is no problem on the negative side and the output voltage was normal at +10.3v / -10.6v

what may be wrong?
Problem solved

After reinforce all solders it became normal.
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Old 30th April 2012, 05:46 AM   #1935
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Good soldering is key. Given the opportunity to mention: Use leaded solders 0.6mm (Kester 44 is best), clean boards by rubbing softly with pure alcohol moist rag before soldering. Use soldering station at 350C. Hakko FX-888 or alike. Use chisel tip ~ 2mm. Solder in 2 secs, if 2 secs does not do it, use bigger tip, flux, up the station's power. Only shiny well set soldered points are healthy in the long run.
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Old 18th May 2012, 04:39 PM   #1936
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Default DCB1 SELECTOR SWITCH?

Hello guys.
I just ordered the board for a DCB1, and needless to say, am quite eager to get started! Only I am not to experienced in DIY, so I have a few noob questions.
I wanted a TOCO DPDT switch, but PERCY is sold out. He does have single pole double throw, though. Can I use two or three of a SPDT to switch between two or three inputs? Or can I use the rotary from Broskie with the DCB1?
What benefits from matching the LED's?
Have anyone tried the stepped attenuator diy kits with vishay dale resistors from ebay, are they difficult to solder?
I also wish to have a subwoofer out, is this as easy as hooking up a second set of outputs, or use a Y- connector?

I think thats all, for now

Hope someone can find the time to explain

Kenneth
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Old 18th May 2012, 05:14 PM   #1937
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The answers are in the DCB1 and/or B1 Threads.
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Old 18th May 2012, 05:39 PM   #1938
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The answers are in the DCB1 and/or B1 Threads.

I think I have read every single one. Well not completely all of it, but I will go through them again, cover to cover.

What about the function of the SPDT vs DPDT ?
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Old 18th May 2012, 05:54 PM   #1939
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Pass B1 shows the selector switch.
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Old 18th May 2012, 07:14 PM   #1940
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Thanks, but I don't think you understand. Does the SPDT switch work like I can use three switches to turn on and off three inputs? Like three in a row, say the left one os line one while down, and the rest of them is up. And to switch to line two, I pull nr one up and nr two down and so on.....it looks lile Peter Daniels does this on his Patek switchbox... See?
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