Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 188

sonata149 · 16th April 2012, 08:47 PM

Just to confirm: Do the tabs of the IRFPs have to isolated from the h/s (which will be fixed to the chassis? Probably yes, because whichever pin is connected to the tab would otherwise be connected to ground... But I'd like to confirm my thoughts. Regards.

Tea-Bag · 16th April 2012, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sonata149

Just to confirm: Do the tabs of the IRFPs have to isolated from the h/s (which will be fixed to the chassis? Probably yes, because whichever pin is connected to the tab would otherwise be connected to ground... But I'd like to confirm my thoughts. Regards.

Drain is connected to back.
Unless well anodized, put some insulation there.

sonata149 · 16th April 2012, 09:26 PM

Thanks Tea-Bag.
As I said, I used the pcb and kit which you so generously organised. The indications on top the pcb make it very easy even for beginners to populate the board. There is always the risk of fitting a component or two the wrong way round, as happened to me! That was probably due to my eagerness to see it working.
Anyway, thanks all who contributed to a fun project like this: Salas (above all), CRT, Nelson, you and all who contribute/d to this project. Still have to hear it and I hope to report on my findings.
Best regards,
Joe A

palmito · 17th April 2012, 12:00 AM

Just want to verify that I can go as high as I want when replacing the 2k2 power led resistor to dim the led. About 35k dims it the best for my setup. Thanks.

Salas · 17th April 2012, 12:31 AM

Is it for a blue LED? Those need much resistance to dim out usually.

palmito · 17th April 2012, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Salas

Is it for a blue LED? Those need much resistance to dim out usually.

It's actually for a red one. I took the 2k2 out and put a 10k and that wasn't enough. I added a 27.4k in series to the 10k and that was about perfect. It's on an led panel mounter on the front panel and it's REALLY bright with the 2k2. Thanks Salas.

Salas · 17th April 2012, 01:22 AM

Its 4.5mA for it with 7812 and 2K2, but sure, whatever in each occasion.

palmito · 02:46 PM

Finished my cap testing, kept the Black Gate STD, which finally sounded great after well over 200 hours of break-in. Their imaging and definition was the best of the lot, but I still find them sounding a bit bright. I would rank Slimic II as second best.

The finished thing has a Chinese rcore, the cheap Udailey LDR board with a small Dantimax ps, a Dantimax remote volume controller for the LDR board, silver wire in oversize teflon sleeves for the input/ouput and the input is routed through a Glassware 3 position selector switch. TX2575s for the 220R and 220K, Caddocks for the 1M, 2.5R Mills. I can still put my hand on the heatsinks for longer than 5 seconds.

Last upgrade I'm contemplating is replacing the 4700uF ps caps for Mundorfs...

I'm very happy with the sound. Thanks again for all the help building it.

s_no_cover.jpg s_with_cover.jpg

Salas · 21st April 2012, 02:55 PM

Nice build. What is the rest of your system?

palmito · 21st April 2012, 03:38 PM

Thanks Salas.

I have Acoustat 2+2 speakers with a Revel B120 subwoofer (cutting it at 60hz), a PS Audio 200c amp, a modified Behringer DEQ2496 (output stage by-passed with Jensen transformers) and an Audio Widget for dacs and a currently armless VPI HW-19 turntable (looking for an Ittok arm for it). 99% of my music is in flacs in a computer which feeds the audio widget dac by usb and the Berhinger from spdif, using mpd in linux.

17th April 2012, 12:00 AM	#1874
palmito diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Florida,US	Power led Just want to verify that I can go as high as I want when replacing the 2k2 power led resistor to dim the led. About 35k dims it the best for my setup. Thanks.

21st April 2012, 02:38 PM	#1878
palmito diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Florida,US	Finished Finished my cap testing, kept the Black Gate STD, which finally sounded great after well over 200 hours of break-in. Their imaging and definition was the best of the lot, but I still find them sounding a bit bright. I would rank Slimic II as second best. The finished thing has a Chinese rcore, the cheap Udailey LDR board with a small Dantimax ps, a Dantimax remote volume controller for the LDR board, silver wire in oversize teflon sleeves for the input/ouput and the input is routed through a Glassware 3 position selector switch. TX2575s for the 220R and 220K, Caddocks for the 1M, 2.5R Mills. I can still put my hand on the heatsinks for longer than 5 seconds. Last upgrade I'm contemplating is replacing the 4700uF ps caps for Mundorfs... I'm very happy with the sound. Thanks again for all the help building it. s_no_cover.jpg s_with_cover.jpg Last edited by palmito; 21st April 2012 at 02:46 PM.

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16th April 2012, 08:47 PM	#1871
sonata149 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Malta, Europe	Just to confirm: Do the tabs of the IRFPs have to isolated from the h/s (which will be fixed to the chassis? Probably yes, because whichever pin is connected to the tab would otherwise be connected to ground... But I'd like to confirm my thoughts. Regards.

16th April 2012, 09:26 PM	#1873
sonata149 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Malta, Europe	Thanks Tea-Bag. As I said, I used the pcb and kit which you so generously organised. The indications on top the pcb make it very easy even for beginners to populate the board. There is always the risk of fitting a component or two the wrong way round, as happened to me! That was probably due to my eagerness to see it working. Anyway, thanks all who contributed to a fun project like this: Salas (above all), CRT, Nelson, you and all who contribute/d to this project. Still have to hear it and I hope to report on my findings. Best regards, Joe A

17th April 2012, 12:31 AM	#1875
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Is it for a blue LED? Those need much resistance to dim out usually.

17th April 2012, 01:22 AM	#1877
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Its 4.5mA for it with 7812 and 2K2, but sure, whatever in each occasion.

21st April 2012, 02:55 PM	#1879
Salas diyAudio Chief Moderator Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Athens-Greece	Nice build. What is the rest of your system?

21st April 2012, 03:38 PM	#1880
palmito diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Florida,US	Thanks Salas. I have Acoustat 2+2 speakers with a Revel B120 subwoofer (cutting it at 60hz), a PS Audio 200c amp, a modified Behringer DEQ2496 (output stage by-passed with Jensen transformers) and an Audio Widget for dacs and a currently armless VPI HW-19 turntable (looking for an Ittok arm for it). 99% of my music is in flacs in a computer which feeds the audio widget dac by usb and the Berhinger from spdif, using mpd in linux.