Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

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Can I use a smaller bypass cap at the circuit board with the longer leads?

I did not want to have to go for the spendy teflon stuff... Vcap TFTF at that size is $100 each. Clarity MR is $32, but not teflon. These Russian FT-3 teflons were just $8 each.

I have some Relcap RTE at 5.6 nF....

Clarity MR is really good. 5.6nF too little.
 
I'm confused, are both 5.6nF and 3.3nF too small for the bypass cap?

MR would be just simpler, as 0.22 dimensions are 25mm D x 35mm L. Will this fit ok? Cost is $32 each, Vcap 0.22 TFTF s 0.85" D x 1.07" L, so smaller....but cost is $72 each!!!! :eek::eek: CuTF is $96 each and 1.5" long... will that even fit?

Also, is the oscillation not in the GHz range? How can this affect sonics? I don't mean to be difficult, I just don't know much about this stuff *at all*.

Thanks!
 
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3.3 or 5.6n can't be too effective, 10n maybe but you may try what you got in hand. About dimensions evaluate with a ruler the pads and surrounding space since you got the real thing in your hands.
Any supersonic resonance brings a form of instability that unsettles a circuit as a whole twisting its impulse response in wide range.
 
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You got to either arrange it as in Dimkasta's picture, or have it further away and combine it with on board smaller cabling bypass, evaluate first. There are other options if its a practical arrangement you ultimately won't like either for subjective result or as an ugly botch, that is all we are summing up.
 
Thanks!


Arranging it like dimkasta has done it, means I should build a platform and drill standoffs into the board to hold it steady. That's one way. I am not happy with the excess wire, that's for sure. And I do not know if the 1" limit can be met that way They are REALLY big caps. Will check on it tomorrow.

If inductance is so important here, then parts with the shortest leads ought to be the best.... like the supplied wima. It is big enough to fit into the holes furthest apart, and the leads are tiny. Although, 1/2" leads could be OK, like on a clarity or Vcap.

If I am going to go Vishay in the signal path, then being cheap in the PS is not justifiable.
 
No problems here...It sounds just fine with the Wima MKP!

I just wanted to use the Russian FT-3 Teflon caps. For 8 USD each, why not? And maybe learn something along the way.... like how some inductances are subtractive!

dimkatsa reported significant improvements with the teflon caps. Even better than hotrodding to the next level.

I'm going to let them complete burning in before judge how much the installation limits the teflon. Then I shall hotrod to 600 ma.

Of course, the Wima will go in and out in another month or so for this testing -- and I may just record the results and subtract the two wav files. There is software that can do that: audiodiffmaker....
 
LED placement

There was one last thing I noticed about my mez board. I assembled the board in 2011 with parts from Ed Lafontaine, and for various reasons didn't get around to completing it until recently. Where the LED strings are I have two reds and an orange in the string of 3, and three reds and two orange in the string of 5. Looking at it I have to wonder why, as you would think the orange led's would go to the string of 3 and the reds to the string of 5. I would like to think I had a reason for assembling it in that manner in 2011......but whatever it was I've long since forgotten. Is it something I should be concerned with?
 
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There was one last thing I noticed about my mez board. I assembled the board in 2011 with parts from Ed Lafontaine, and for various reasons didn't get around to completing it until recently. Where the LED strings are I have two reds and an orange in the string of 3, and three reds and two orange in the string of 5. Looking at it I have to wonder why, as you would think the orange led's would go to the string of 3 and the reds to the string of 5. I would like to think I had a reason for assembling it in that manner in 2011......but whatever it was I've long since forgotten. Is it something I should be concerned with?

You created some total forward drop to some voltage target to achieve nominal PSU and matching between sides most probably.
 
Given the info in the article, once the teflon cap breaks in, I will be trying different wiring schemes. I'm especially interested in using partial mutual inductance (PMI) to decrease the overall inductance of the wiring to the capacitor.

Increasing PMI is desireable, as this quantity *subtracts* from the inductance of the wiring and the loop. The inductance also decreases with decreasing loop area. Maximizing PMI is desired, along with minimizing loop area.

Neotech makes a wire called "legenburg". It is OCC copper with teflon insulation and is rectangular. This means that the wire runs can be very close together which increases PMI.

The area of the loop formed by placing one run of Legenburg on top of another = length of wire x (thickness of insulation x 2). Stripping the insulation from one run of wire would reduce this inductance by half. Using a large wire gauge also helps, but is not as significant.

AndrewT's recommendation for using enameled wire is spot on. This is probably best if one wire is enameled the other bare.

IMO, this is worth trying, if only just for the experience. How could one measure these tiny inductances?
 
Looking a the equations for partial inductance, it looks like the external wiring inductance is negligible. The length and radius of the capacitor is of larger concern, as that will contribute most to the size of the loop.

For minimizing inductance, the ideal capacitor would have very little distance between leads, and very little distance from PCB to the plates.....This defines radial capacitors!

Orange drops or other non-inductively wound caps should be fine.
 
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