Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build - Page 183 - diyAudio
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Old 9th April 2012, 03:51 PM   #1821
Siberia is online now Siberia  Lithuania
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It's neither of those options. My Tx is in another box.
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Old 9th April 2012, 03:58 PM   #1822
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Run a wire from 0 PSU on DCB1 to its chassis.
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Old 9th April 2012, 06:09 PM   #1823
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1. Forgot to ground the pot to the chassis. Oops! Rookie mistake... I'll fix that.
2. It definitely is static and happens not just when I turn the pot, but constantly. I'll try reflowing the joints if grounding the pot doesn't do the trick. I do have a new scope as well (early birthday gift to myself) so I can measure stuff if need be.

Will report back with results this evening.

Thanks all!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tea-Bag View Post
I had something similar to static in a decent project, during turn on for a minute.
Turned out to be a bad solder joint, trying to solder in a small wire into a big hole

I would measure the usual places - where the power supply section stops for voltages there - and across the 2SK's, and then the output as well for DC offset, AND AC.

If you got a scope that would help
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Old 10th April 2012, 06:29 AM   #1824
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Good news is the static went away when I grounded the pot. Bad news is that the left channel is no longer audible and the pot isn't working as it should. I believe I must have mis-wired the pot after all. Going to double check now.

In the meantime, can someone verify the pot wiring for me?

For the output of the board, it's just the three pins to the output RCAs.

For the input... here's what I think I'm supposed to have.

RCA in to the left pin (looking down at an ALPS pot with the shaft pointing toward you). RCA ground to the right pin. Middle pin to the B1 board.

Also, I tied the RCA input grounds together... is that ok?

EDIT: SUCCESS! I had not tied the left and right grounds together.

Still need a volume knob.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by oneplustwo; 10th April 2012 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 10th April 2012, 07:07 AM   #1825
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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Hi oneplustwo,
Are you using the 10R resistosr supplied from the kit? You are using the bottom plate for heat sink and what kind of temperature you are running? Do you know how much is the current drawn when using 10R?

Thanks
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Old 10th April 2012, 07:20 AM   #1826
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Yes, I'm using the supplied 10ohm resistors with the aluminum plate as a heat sink. It barely gets warm at all. Across those resistors I measure 2.8 and 2.4 amps respectively. Is that the place I'm supposed to measure current draw?
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Old 10th April 2012, 11:50 AM   #1827
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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You probably measure about 2V across each 10 Ohm (the big ones). ~200mA for each rail (I=V/R).
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Old 10th April 2012, 03:40 PM   #1828
Nick77 is offline Nick77  United States
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I finally decided to install a couple of 4.5R mills resistors i had on hand, which replaced the Mills 10R. Resolution was a very nice bump, well worth the effort. Barely ran warm before but running about 100 degress on the sinks (37.7 celsius).

Cant find acceptable temp ranges, thanks. Using large L bars bolted to chassi

Is 100 degrees an acceptable temp?

Last edited by Nick77; 10th April 2012 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 10th April 2012, 04:51 PM   #1829
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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If 100 Fahrenheit then its very mild. Will live practically forever.
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Old 10th April 2012, 04:56 PM   #1830
Nick77 is offline Nick77  United States
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Quote:
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If 100 Fahrenheit then its very mild. Will live practically forever.

Okay good, seemed really hot after being only barely warm prior.
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