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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
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Old 18th March 2012, 09:18 PM   #1761
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
Quote:
Originally Posted by piero7 View Post
Hi Salas, what the value of the impedance with 600mA output current and 2A?
340uOhm & 220uOhm. Diminishing returns in other words after 1A.
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Old 18th March 2012, 09:46 PM   #1762
piero7 is offline piero7  Italy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
340uOhm & 220uOhm. Diminishing returns in other words after 1A.
Thanks Salas!
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Old 31st March 2012, 01:54 PM   #1763
rikkert1978 is offline rikkert1978  Netherlands
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My Tea-bag kit is up and running since a good few days, and I have to say it is sounding very good. There is a lot more 3d and stable imaging going on compared to the normal b1. The difference is so big, its more then a full step up.

Thanks allot Mr Pass, Salas and Tea-bag, my stereo sounds fantatisc now.
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Old 31st March 2012, 02:02 PM   #1764
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
Congrats! But you know what we say here? With no pix it did not happen.
Just joking. If you got some pictures of it in your system members are always happy to look at.
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Old 31st March 2012, 02:08 PM   #1765
VT67 is offline VT67  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salas View Post
Congrats! But you know what we say here? With no pix it did not happen.
Just joking. If you got some pictures of it in your system members are always happy to look at.
+1

Regards
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Old 31st March 2012, 03:17 PM   #1766
ggetzoff is offline ggetzoff  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rikkert1978 View Post
My Tea-bag kit is up and running since a good few days, and I have to say it is sounding very good. There is a lot more 3d and stable imaging going on compared to the normal b1. The difference is so big, its more then a full step up.

Thanks allot Mr Pass, Salas and Tea-bag, my stereo sounds fantatisc now.
High-end audio without the price. Brings a tear to my eye

Here's my build so far. I went with Caddocks and TX2575s on the IN/OUT branch.

I just need to match the LEDs for Vref and CCS. I'll do that today and get some woodworking done tomorrow.
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Old 31st March 2012, 03:26 PM   #1767
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
A ''pointy'' build and a ''to the point'' realization.
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Old 31st March 2012, 11:56 PM   #1768
ggetzoff is offline ggetzoff  United States
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Okay, flipped the switch and voltages are 10.06vdc and 10.11vdc.

T-B, thanks for the extra LEDs, I was able to get good matches for each source section.

Current wise, I'll be going for some dissipation ; the 10R is only pressed in place to test voltages.
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Old 2nd April 2012, 05:48 AM   #1769
Dukja is offline Dukja  United States
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Hi,

I just finished the kit from T-B. All LEDs up. The Vdrop on R1 was about 2.0V at V+ side, but it was only 1.7V at V- side. And they would drop to about 1.95 and 1.66 after a few minutes. One side Vdrop seems to be border line (2 +/- 0.3V).

Also, the V+ measured to be about 10.05 and V- to be -10.14 so that V- was actually slightly higher than V+. Output DC offset was about 2mV and 3mV at L&R channel. The fact that |V-| > |V+| worries me. I am not sure if there is something that need to be fixed?

When I matched the LEDs, I only use the diode mode on a Fluke 179 and read the voltage. Was that not the "good enough" way to match LEDs?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Last edited by Dukja; 2nd April 2012 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 2nd April 2012, 09:17 AM   #1770
Salas is offline Salas  Greece
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Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build
The Fluke 179 luckily has a 2.5V diode test spec and gives results for LEDS also, but the meter to save its battery never gives more than essential current to turn them on. Hence it won't give a reference measurement at the current range they see in any specific circuitry. BUT your PSU results are no problem for the DCB1 tolerances. Your DC offset is not spectacular but in spec too. For mostly aesthetic reasons you can try to near the running currents in both CCS. The -V side drop is weaker due to different Vgs of your POS and NEG Mosfets. Use ~25% less setting resistor value on the negative CCS. I.e. 10R on POS and 8.2R on NEG as it is set now, or 5.6R and 4.7R for a hotter running system @ ~350mA if you feel your sinks cool enough now. It usually becomes even nicer when running higher. Do those things in leisure, your DCB1 is good for use as it is.
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