Thank you for that info. I guess I must have missed it, reading between this thread and the other threads. I noticed in some pictures folks are leaving out the MUR120's and just putting MUR860's at the end of the pcb. Is this something I failed to pickup up?
Thanks
Ignore last post. I just found Teabags suggestions on To-220 or mur120 on page 2. I am done with building my black pcb using Teabags kit, just need to fire up and test. It really would be nice if all the hundreds of pages were reduced to a FAQ, which parts to leave out and when you would, what points on the pcb to test apart from V+, G, V-. I know those steps are somewhere out there
Thanks to all for making this preamp/buffer available.
I need help
Fired up with an Antek AN1212, and I get the 2 banks of 3 leds burning, but the 2 banks of 5 leds are not lit. They are correctly positioned and do light up when attached to 1K resistor and 9v battery. I hear the relay kick in after about 4 seconds. No voltages on V+ or V-.
KL170BL's are also correctly installed and positioned.
Any suggestions?
thanks in advance.
Fired up with an Antek AN1212, and I get the 2 banks of 3 leds burning, but the 2 banks of 5 leds are not lit. They are correctly positioned and do light up when attached to 1K resistor and 9v battery. I hear the relay kick in after about 4 seconds. No voltages on V+ or V-.
KL170BL's are also correctly installed and positioned.
Any suggestions?
thanks in advance.
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I need help
Fired up with an Antek AN1212, and I get the 2 banks of 3 leds burning, but the 2 banks of 5 leds are not lit. They are correctly positioned and do light up when attached to 1K resistor and 9v battery. I hear the relay kick in after about 4 seconds. No voltages on V+ or V-.
KL170BL's are also correctly installed and positioned.
Any suggestions?
thanks in advance.
Found I had a one of each of the legs in the IRFP9240 and IRFP240 closest to the caps, not long enough. Its quite a stretch having them setup so they are lying flat onto the chassis. I need to move them in closer to get better contact with the legs. When I did get them in contact both V+ and V- were 10.1 and 10.2.
It s been a while since I posted something new here...
Today I decided that I had to do something about my hammond 182Q12 which vibrated like crazy... So I filled its core with natural bee's wax.
Before, I could hear it vibrate from my couch 3 meters away... Now I do not even hear the inrush current while flipping the switch
I do not have a photo, but I have one from my odac experiments so that you can see what I did...
Doesn t natural wax look awesome? Like pastry cream
Oh and I cannot even start to describe how much clearer the sound is... I ve been playing with DCB1 for a while now and it still surprises me
Today I decided that I had to do something about my hammond 182Q12 which vibrated like crazy... So I filled its core with natural bee's wax.
Before, I could hear it vibrate from my couch 3 meters away... Now I do not even hear the inrush current while flipping the switch
I do not have a photo, but I have one from my odac experiments so that you can see what I did...
Doesn t natural wax look awesome? Like pastry cream
Oh and I cannot even start to describe how much clearer the sound is... I ve been playing with DCB1 for a while now and it still surprises me
Attachments
I am still using the Russian FT3s at 0,22uF.
It s a huge improvement over the wimas and I never looked back... They are pretty huge though and attaching them is a problem. I currently have them suspended on air, soldered with thick solid core wire to keep them steadily above the pcb and then tied to each other with tie wrap to prevent them from moving around or vibrating too much... Attaching something more solid on them to further reduce vibrations might actually make them even better.
Even a third one is feasible if the under PCB ones get glued on their side with short legs meeting the pads of the upside one symmetrically.
Thanks alot,You gave me an idea, so here it is
Attachments
Great result for something so simple to apply....................I decided that I had to do something about my hammond 182Q12 which vibrated like crazy... So I filled its core with natural bee's wax............................. Now I do not even hear the inrush current while flipping the switch
Oh and I cannot even start to describe how much clearer the sound is... ........................
Far easier than doing a varnish impregnation of the whole core and windings.
Was this improvement due to the wax filling alone?
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I did not change anything else, so the improvement is all because of the wax. If it did not work I was planning some DC blocking testing for my mains, but I don t think I will now. I don t feel comfortable playing with mains anyways...
The transformer is a big one at 160VA and I never had temperature issues with it. It runs completely cold.
The wax is really hard to melt too. In a "bain marie" heating style, the water had to boil and I had to wait about 10 minutes before the wax started to liquify, so I feel pretty secure with it.
I also plan to alter the chassis a bit to further isolate and shield the transformer on its own case, so this will be one extra measure to avoid making my dcb1 a wax soup
The transformer is a big one at 160VA and I never had temperature issues with it. It runs completely cold.
The wax is really hard to melt too. In a "bain marie" heating style, the water had to boil and I had to wait about 10 minutes before the wax started to liquify, so I feel pretty secure with it.
I also plan to alter the chassis a bit to further isolate and shield the transformer on its own case, so this will be one extra measure to avoid making my dcb1 a wax soup
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