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#1231 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sheffield, England
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#1232 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Then the relay has no trigger signal.
That could be the transistor switch that is not working or some other faulty component. You need to now measure back through the relay drive circuit to find where the error starts. |
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#1233 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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I have some of these left around:
Dayton DNR-10 10 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor 10 ohm 10 W sandcast. Would it OK to replace the parallel 68 ohm so I can bring the current to 200 mA?
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#1234 |
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not politcally affiliated
diyAudio Member
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Yes, that's fine.
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#1235 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Surely the ''note'' jumper for a 12V relay is installed?
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#1236 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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You are referring to the relay circuit ground return link, located elsewhere on the PCB.
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#1237 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sheffield, England
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Thanks for the help guys, turns out it was the BC550. All working fine now thanks. David
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#1238 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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#1239 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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#1240 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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both those resistors are in parallel. Only one is needed to supply the relay coil.
I have split those resistors in a MEZ build, one feeds the mute/unmute relay with 15Vdc from a 7815 using 2k as the dropping resistor. The other feeds the selector relays. I use 1k here, but without the current boost at start up sometimes the relay does not fire. All I do is turn the selector and then the (or any) relay always triggers on re-selection. In my Hyp build I used one resistor to feed the relays and the other resistor to feed the current boost. Again that was 15Vdc into a resistor fed 12V relay. |
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