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-   -   Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/171715-salas-hotrodded-blue-dcb1-build.html)

Horio 12th May 2011 03:31 PM
I recommend the Raytek MT6. It's identical to the Fluke model (I've been told Fluke actually owns Raytek) except for the fact that its gray instead of yellow, and $40 cheaper. I've got one and it works like a charm.

Marra 12th May 2011 04:02 PM
Lucas could you not just fasten them to the chassis floor. Thats what I did with mine and they barely get warm using the 10R resistors.

LucasAdamson 12th May 2011 04:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marra (Post 2569864)
Lucas could you not just fasten them to the chassis floor. Thats what I did with mine and they barely get warm using the 10R resistors.
I don't think it would help. The plywood might catch fire. :p

LucasAdamson 12th May 2011 04:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Horio (Post 2569830)
I recommend the Raytek MT6. It's identical to the Fluke model (I've been told Fluke actually owns Raytek) except for the fact that its gray instead of yellow, and $40 cheaper. I've got one and it works like a charm.
Too rich for my blood. I'll get a cheap HK one if at all I think. Thanks for the advice though.

Marra 12th May 2011 04:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasAdamson (Post 2569868)
I don't think it would help. The plywood might catch fire. :p
Certainly get scortched :D

johnwmclean 18th May 2011 03:25 AM
For a pure buffer only build (no volume pot) are there any considerations or additional parts I should use?

Salas 18th May 2011 10:24 AM
No. As it is.

crazyfrog 20th May 2011 10:41 PM
Irfp150
 
Well, I managed to bust my pair of IRFP240...But I could easily get some IRFP150: could it be an alternative?
Thanks.

crazyfrog 20th May 2011 11:38 PM
I put two IRFP9140 on the P-side if it makes a difference. I saw the combination 9140/150 once or twice in amps, that's why I ask.

Salas 21st May 2011 12:49 AM
150 = much more Ciss and Crss, different transoconductance, better not.


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