I have to laugh at my own impulsiveness...I was a bit bored last week and checked out this place after nearly a year away just to see how Hugh was doing. Oh a new amp! Well, mine (AKSA 100N+) is not working...hmmm 
The box arrived on Friday last and the guts fell out the AKSA case (a bespoke Aspen solution from a few years back) shortly afterward.
I have to say that the NAKSA 80 board is a very pretty thing. Ridiculously pretty actually. Of course it should be given the asking price but then if you gut a retail amp in this price range you sure as heck won't find the same sort of show nor when it comes down to it...the same sort of component spec either. As for performance...I can only say that the old AKSA thumped retail amps three times its purchase price back in the day despite the seagull soldering. The NAKSA 80? Dunno yet. But it looks pretty hot!!
Getting the new board and transformer and stepped attenuator into the old box has proven to be an interesting process. The 300VA trannie is a smidge larger than each of the two originals so it was hard against the switch connections in one of the original positions and using the other position would have blocked the attenuator mounting. Drilled a new hole.
Next trick was that attenuator. Now the complicated thing about having a timber fascia on an amplifier is that noting that is designed to go on the front face of an amp is suited for mounting on a 12mm thick slab of wood. The power switch and indicator LEDs sit in a specially routed pocket that allows them to be mechanically attached to the timber using their respective mounts but that approach wouldn't work for the fat attenuator. Ended up having to make the new pocket and hole for the knob out front and then fashion a clamp arrangement (80mm length of plywood with screws at either end) to hold the attenuator to the back of the fascia. That worked - not beautiful but functional, might have to swap the ply for a nicer piece of oiled Red Gum even though it can't be seen...
The NAKSA module is a flat plate unit but because I already had heatsinks that had been specially milled for the case I wanted to use them. So Hugh parted the two and just sent me the module. All I had to do was cut the ledge off one of the existing heatsinks and drill it for the module. One look at the module told me that wasn't going to happen - the case is only as long as the heatsink so there's not enough room for the module on the back of it without it fouling on something else. Plus the heatsink is mounted to the case on the lower section of the flat so these bolts would come close to fouling on the board itself...which would be destructively sparky.
So I've had to drill more holes in the base of the casing...which I'm pleased to say worked first go, lined up perfectly and, when fully mounted, showed no sign of shorting between the output devices and the case. Win!! Although in hindsight I'd probably have been best served by having Hugh send me the whole thing and I'd mount the lot inside. Live/learn.
What I have now is a case full of parts and wires...no sound yet. But by golly it looks good. Did I mention how pretty that module is?
The box arrived on Friday last and the guts fell out the AKSA case (a bespoke Aspen solution from a few years back) shortly afterward.
I have to say that the NAKSA 80 board is a very pretty thing. Ridiculously pretty actually. Of course it should be given the asking price but then if you gut a retail amp in this price range you sure as heck won't find the same sort of show nor when it comes down to it...the same sort of component spec either. As for performance...I can only say that the old AKSA thumped retail amps three times its purchase price back in the day despite the seagull soldering. The NAKSA 80? Dunno yet. But it looks pretty hot!!
Getting the new board and transformer and stepped attenuator into the old box has proven to be an interesting process. The 300VA trannie is a smidge larger than each of the two originals so it was hard against the switch connections in one of the original positions and using the other position would have blocked the attenuator mounting. Drilled a new hole.
Next trick was that attenuator. Now the complicated thing about having a timber fascia on an amplifier is that noting that is designed to go on the front face of an amp is suited for mounting on a 12mm thick slab of wood. The power switch and indicator LEDs sit in a specially routed pocket that allows them to be mechanically attached to the timber using their respective mounts but that approach wouldn't work for the fat attenuator. Ended up having to make the new pocket and hole for the knob out front and then fashion a clamp arrangement (80mm length of plywood with screws at either end) to hold the attenuator to the back of the fascia. That worked - not beautiful but functional, might have to swap the ply for a nicer piece of oiled Red Gum even though it can't be seen...
The NAKSA module is a flat plate unit but because I already had heatsinks that had been specially milled for the case I wanted to use them. So Hugh parted the two and just sent me the module. All I had to do was cut the ledge off one of the existing heatsinks and drill it for the module. One look at the module told me that wasn't going to happen - the case is only as long as the heatsink so there's not enough room for the module on the back of it without it fouling on something else. Plus the heatsink is mounted to the case on the lower section of the flat so these bolts would come close to fouling on the board itself...which would be destructively sparky.
So I've had to drill more holes in the base of the casing...which I'm pleased to say worked first go, lined up perfectly and, when fully mounted, showed no sign of shorting between the output devices and the case. Win!! Although in hindsight I'd probably have been best served by having Hugh send me the whole thing and I'd mount the lot inside. Live/learn.
What I have now is a case full of parts and wires...no sound yet. But by golly it looks good. Did I mention how pretty that module is?
How's this?
I promise I'll sort out some updated images once I get sorted...
Looks Very serious!
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Joined 2009
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I do like that chasis.
I suspect that eventually you'll want to find a new home for those AKSA modules; my clone was my first project and it is still playing whereas my other projects are not. Something about the sound of the AKSA makes me want to keep it. Perhaps not as your main system now that you have a NAKSA, but as a smaller back-up or for use with a computer or in a bedroom with single trafo and smaller power supply.
I suspect that eventually you'll want to find a new home for those AKSA modules; my clone was my first project and it is still playing whereas my other projects are not. Something about the sound of the AKSA makes me want to keep it. Perhaps not as your main system now that you have a NAKSA, but as a smaller back-up or for use with a computer or in a bedroom with single trafo and smaller power supply.
Oh I'll keep it all right. I need to sweep up the seagull dropping styled soldering, replace the toroids and re-mount the modules on some spare heatsinks. Then it'll go into the shed to run the pair of 15" coaxial drivers that are currently hanging there in their vented boxes being driven by a Sony all in one.
The chassis above will change a little given that it now has a volume attenuator poking through it, the bolts have been exchanged for button head machine bolts and the blue LEDs are now going to be NAKSA green.
The chassis above will change a little given that it now has a volume attenuator poking through it, the bolts have been exchanged for button head machine bolts and the blue LEDs are now going to be NAKSA green.
It is staring at me insolently every time I walk past it...
Must say I'm still a bit mystified how I'm going to properly and effectively manage all the coax and its relationship with signal earth on the attenuator. Doesn't seem to be enough room for four cable connections on the earth loop - two in from the RCA's and two out to the module. Has to be a trick to it!!
Must say I'm still a bit mystified how I'm going to properly and effectively manage all the coax and its relationship with signal earth on the attenuator. Doesn't seem to be enough room for four cable connections on the earth loop - two in from the RCA's and two out to the module. Has to be a trick to it!!
I also have an AKSA clone that I still keep. Many "top" amps I have built only for a few days or hours or even minutes.
I don't follow the NAKSA threads but when Hugh introduced the new design I mentioned that I suspected that it is based on NAD3020. I don't know if Hugh had released more info about it. The reason I mention this is because I cannot forget my wonderful moments listening to the NAD amp and NAD CD Player and a PSB bookshelf. The sound was very "vintage", very enjoyable. Many times I have wanted to rebuild the NAD. But other amp having bootstrap at the negative rail, but instead of SE input it uses LTP (a Sony amp), also sounds "vintage" and I still keep and planning to improve it.
Sean,
Braid from the coax from each RCA to the single, one ground point on the Stepped Attenuator. The coax to the module is braid connected to the signal earth designated on the pcb. There is a braid connection on the module for each channel.
Hi Jay,
Welcome to our forum......
Actually the NAKSA 80 is original, but carries influences from many designs over the years and a few ideas that are SOTA. It is a current feedback amp, it uses nested feedback, and a very different output drive and tempco circuit to control the 110mA quiescent!
I'm flattered you keep a AKSA clone, Jay...... strong praise!
Ciao,
Hugh
Braid from the coax from each RCA to the single, one ground point on the Stepped Attenuator. The coax to the module is braid connected to the signal earth designated on the pcb. There is a braid connection on the module for each channel.
Hi Jay,
Welcome to our forum......
Actually the NAKSA 80 is original, but carries influences from many designs over the years and a few ideas that are SOTA. It is a current feedback amp, it uses nested feedback, and a very different output drive and tempco circuit to control the 110mA quiescent!
I'm flattered you keep a AKSA clone, Jay...... strong praise!
Ciao,
Hugh
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Celebrate The Failure!
It's alive. To the sounds of "Celebrate The Failure" from The Fauves (a three and half minute chunk of guitar pop irony in a song that was written to 'celebrate' the 2000 Olympics in Sydney), the NAKSA 80 came out goodly a little earlier this evening.
It measured OK too though it did need a tweak after having its twenty minute belting/fifteen minute rest. Output voltage at the speaker terminals is well down on spec but I reckon this might have something to do with the attenuator - it still drove my 20 year old Wharfedale Diamond 3's in a manner that I've never heard before.
Only wrinkle at this point is the left channel LED is not aglow. Prime suspicion is on seagull soldering so that's a job for tomorrow.
Wiring up the coax to the attenuator was a mongrel job that was helped by the sacrifice of a pair of Audioquest interconnects that I got for free many years back as a result of a Letter of the Month in a long gone Aussie hifi magazine. They are a single wire coax in that the shield wire is a single wire in contact with a foil shield - much easier than fiddling with braid!
So...all is good. So far. Photos to come in the next few days when I get away from our third world broadband connection and back into the office to use their developing world broadband...the joy of living in a forgotten far flung rural corner of a so called first world country
Back to the music...
It's alive. To the sounds of "Celebrate The Failure" from The Fauves (a three and half minute chunk of guitar pop irony in a song that was written to 'celebrate' the 2000 Olympics in Sydney), the NAKSA 80 came out goodly a little earlier this evening.
It measured OK too though it did need a tweak after having its twenty minute belting/fifteen minute rest. Output voltage at the speaker terminals is well down on spec but I reckon this might have something to do with the attenuator - it still drove my 20 year old Wharfedale Diamond 3's in a manner that I've never heard before.
Only wrinkle at this point is the left channel LED is not aglow. Prime suspicion is on seagull soldering so that's a job for tomorrow.
Wiring up the coax to the attenuator was a mongrel job that was helped by the sacrifice of a pair of Audioquest interconnects that I got for free many years back as a result of a Letter of the Month in a long gone Aussie hifi magazine. They are a single wire coax in that the shield wire is a single wire in contact with a foil shield - much easier than fiddling with braid!
So...all is good. So far. Photos to come in the next few days when I get away from our third world broadband connection and back into the office to use their developing world broadband...the joy of living in a forgotten far flung rural corner of a so called first world country
Back to the music...
Sean,
Congratulations on getting it up and running...... the attenuator has small tabs and the signal wiring in any amp is fiddly..... the droppers for the two indicator leds are on the pcb, you need only connect the wires to the holes, and be sure that the a side goes to anode on the led, and k to the cathode. Furthermore, if you overheat the led the element will be destroyed, so check it actually works with a 9V battery and a 2K resistor to drop the voltage to the 2V of the green led.
Enjoy your old CDs, you will find the SQ a huge step up from the old AKSA..
Cheers,
Hugh
Congratulations on getting it up and running...... the attenuator has small tabs and the signal wiring in any amp is fiddly..... the droppers for the two indicator leds are on the pcb, you need only connect the wires to the holes, and be sure that the a side goes to anode on the led, and k to the cathode. Furthermore, if you overheat the led the element will be destroyed, so check it actually works with a 9V battery and a 2K resistor to drop the voltage to the 2V of the green led.
Enjoy your old CDs, you will find the SQ a huge step up from the old AKSA..
Cheers,
Hugh
Time for a new Naksa?
Hello Hugh,
I am glad I read that things are going better now. The last time I send you a message you were some weeks at home after your adventure in the hospital. It must have changed your look on how to live your life I suppose. When I read your answer I saw that you were still recovering. There were some misspellings and curved phrases in your messages. When I read your messages now the misspellings and curved phrases are gone and that's a good sign. A week ago I switched to your website and saw that you designed a new Naksa, the 80. I was curious immediately and read all the messages on this forum. I have two Naksa 70's and played them with much pleassure. I had one problem with them. They sounded a little harsh in a certain area in the midtones. I tried to get rid of it but did not succeed. Meanwhile I was searching for a replacement and tried a not so expensive kit. This kit sounded good and had not the harsh sound in the midtones but it lacked a lot of strengths of the Naksa 70. You understand me. The Naksa 80 comes just in time. I probably will change my 70's for the new 80's. I want to mount them in my self build cases and hope they will fit in. So, two questions on that. How high is the Naksa 80 including the heatsink? It looks if it is a little less high that the 70. Can it be mount upright in a case, so with the heatsink under the board? The 70 did not produce a lot of heat. Does the 80 produce more heat then the 70? So finally, I hope you can stay healthy for a long time and produce a lot more of these fine sounding amps.
Cheers,
Eric
Hello Hugh,
I am glad I read that things are going better now. The last time I send you a message you were some weeks at home after your adventure in the hospital. It must have changed your look on how to live your life I suppose. When I read your answer I saw that you were still recovering. There were some misspellings and curved phrases in your messages. When I read your messages now the misspellings and curved phrases are gone and that's a good sign. A week ago I switched to your website and saw that you designed a new Naksa, the 80. I was curious immediately and read all the messages on this forum. I have two Naksa 70's and played them with much pleassure. I had one problem with them. They sounded a little harsh in a certain area in the midtones. I tried to get rid of it but did not succeed. Meanwhile I was searching for a replacement and tried a not so expensive kit. This kit sounded good and had not the harsh sound in the midtones but it lacked a lot of strengths of the Naksa 70. You understand me. The Naksa 80 comes just in time. I probably will change my 70's for the new 80's. I want to mount them in my self build cases and hope they will fit in. So, two questions on that. How high is the Naksa 80 including the heatsink? It looks if it is a little less high that the 70. Can it be mount upright in a case, so with the heatsink under the board? The 70 did not produce a lot of heat. Does the 80 produce more heat then the 70? So finally, I hope you can stay healthy for a long time and produce a lot more of these fine sounding amps.
Cheers,
Eric
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