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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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A couple of months ago I got a new shelving system for both my audio system and a few other things. In that connection my GK-1R was taken temporarily out of commission.
After making appropriate holes in the shelving system for cabling, the GK-1R was installed into the system again - but now the right channel was dead! After making sure that it was not a cabling problem (which is was not), I took the GK-1R out and - being virtually electronically illiterate myself - contacted Hugh. After a few measurements, we found out that it looked as if either T4, a BC557, and/or the LED was failing. I have now replaced both T4 and the LED, but the right channel is still dead I have just written to Hugh a few hours ago and am awaiting his deliberations - but it occurred to me that an error like this (whatever it is) could happen to other GK-1 owners and might be of interest, hence this post. I should stress that Hugh has been very helpful indeed in the matter, whereas I have been somewhat slow in getting and installing the replacement components (due to summer vacation and a swamped cellar ...). I shall post again once Hugh and I have had a gander about what to do next Cheers, Jens
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"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Jens,
Usually when something fails after a spell in storage it's a connection issue. Try removing all the plugs, sockets, tubes and refitting them. This is first base only, of course. Next, measure the voltages on the SS power supply - should be +/-14-15V - and on the tube anodes you should have 135-145V all round. If these check out we go further into the circuit to isolate the issue. Apologies for not answering you today, it was a beautiful spring day and I took a few hours off! Cheers, Hugh |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: wyoming
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Jens,
While you have your GK-1 apart, be sure to remove R2, the 10R resistor in the ground track, and replace it with a wire link. This should remove any residual hum that exists. Gk-1's can sometimes seem to have a mind of their own. I once took mine down to Hugh's to demo a modification I had done, and when I got there, one channel was dead. It took us a couple hours to bring it back to life. I think the air in the train must have been bad for the Gk-1, although it was okay for me. Steve |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
Already did that when we started discussing this problem a few months ago. The tubes are fine, glowing nicely, and all tranny voltages are fine as well - rechecked that yesterday. And as we agreed previously, I have replaced T4 and the green LED - still the problem persists. Please see private email as well ;-) And this being a Sunday, I certainly did not expect you to reply right away - I sincerely hope you and Sri enjoyed the nice weather! Cheers, Jens
__________________
"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
I am certain Hugh and I will get my preamp up and running again soon - and it has never been on a train! Cheers, Jens
__________________
"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Jens,
If all voltages check out, then it seems to me that the signal is just not getting through. Once DC conditions are met, the amp should amplifier, but only if a signal gets to it. Accordingly, take the input signal via coax directly to the input on the board, that is, solder up a jockey coax with an RCA on the end. Now try it..... if signal now gets through, then the problem lies at the input switching level - not the main board. I'm sorry the CCS replacement did not work. Cheers, Hugh |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
It is not a signal problem. The green LED does not light up, and voltage accross it is only approx. 1 V, as I described in my email to you. Left side LED is shining brightly as it should, approx. 1.8-1.9 V accross it. I'm thinking it could be something in the power supply? Cheers, Jens
__________________
"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Jens,
Ah, OK. What are the voltages on the two power rails, one positive, the other negative, for the SS section? That implies that there are only a couple of volts available, as the LED is not lighting up. This in turn points to the emitter follower which supplies the positive rail with power. Jens, I will email you. Cheers, Hugh |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
Not quite sure where to measure the "power rails", however have made the measurements you asked for and emailed those to you. This is getting interesting ... Cheers, Jens
__________________
"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Copenhagen
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Quote:
Cheers, Jens
__________________
"Life is too short for over-expensive hi-fi pretending to be high-end" |
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