Building a Pearl 2

Hi Codyt and McQuaide

I have followed with great interest in your elimination of Pearl2 output caps.
Is this simply a case of eliminating c13 with a wire and bypassing R14 with a lytic to achieve zero DC?

I would like to try this too.

tia

I put a silmic cap between R14 and ground and verified 0VDC at the output. Then put a jumper on C13 and removed C8.
 
Thanks a lot, McQuaide and Codyt.
It is quite clear about c13 and c8

So add a 220 cap between r14 and ground?
It is not clear on your images, but I could just lift the board edge side leg of R14 and add the cap there would be my simplest option.


I put a silmic cap between R14 and ground and verified 0VDC at the output. Then put a jumper on C13 and removed C8.
 
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Thanks a lot, McQuaide and Codyt.
It is quite clear about c13 and c8

So add a 220 cap between r14 and ground?
It is not clear on your images, but I could just lift the board edge side leg of R14 and add the cap there would be my simplest option.

Here’s a pic
 

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The first image is from Morrison's "Ground and Shielding Techniques in Instrumentation", the second from Linear Tech (ADI) AN-159 "Measuring 2nV/RtHz Noise", third the shielded box I use for noise measurements -- I can measure down to ~500pV/RtHz
 

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Well I finished everything up and plugged everything together, fired it up and no sound.

I am running from the TT RCA’s to the Pearl 2 inputs. Pearl 2 output to the B1 input. B1 output to the RCS’s. I did away with the B1 selector switch so I have a jumper on R1/L1 to the middle pad. I did not remove R101 or R201 on the B1 as I do not believe it is necessary to do so.

I will have to look into a bit later and see what is going on.

I know I have 30+, 30- going to both Pearl boards and 0 at the checking offset (I believe) test point. LED’s are on, on all three boards.
 
Well I finished everything up and plugged everything together, fired it up and no sound.

I am running from the TT RCA’s to the Pearl 2 inputs. Pearl 2 output to the B1 input. B1 output to the RCS’s. I did away with the B1 selector switch so I have a jumper on R1/L1 to the middle pad. I did not remove R101 or R201 on the B1 as I do not believe it is necessary to do so.

I will have to look into a bit later and see what is going on.

I know I have 30+, 30- going to both Pearl boards and 0 at the checking offset (I believe) test point. LED’s are on, on all three boards.

Here are some voltages to check.
 

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6L6

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Russellc - I didn't come up with the cure, I just picked up the phone and asked Wayne... :) Some High-Output MC cartridges have a lot of turns on the motor and their inductance can start to ring looking into the loading resistor. The input Zoble fixes that if needed, but the couple of people who have have that problem have had the exact same cartridge!

exojam - please post some photos. (Well-lit, in-focus, you know the drill... :) :) :) )
 
I’m going to tackle this build next. Does anyone know where to get the power supply board since Chipamp’s website is no longer available?

You can also use the DIYaudio store PSU board to build Wayne's supply. I spent the extra $1 each to add heat sinks to the fast diodes but they probably aren't necessary. Safety ground isolation components are on a terminal strip next to the IEC inlet.
 

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