Every manufacturer wants something different, I've found. Perhaps it is something about the drill sizes or the format of the drill file? These files were acceptable to pcbexpress.com, and are customized for the drill sizes they offer (PCBexpress pcb questions - Pcb Express Prototype Printed Circuit Boards). I still have the Eagle source images I drew. If you have Eagle, I could send you those images and you can export new manufacturing data in whatever format you like.
Yes that is what he says:" There should be a separate .drl file for the non throughplated holes", "and the two Gerber files with solder mask for the top and bottom side of card."
I have no Eagle software or any other software for PCB making. Maybe PCBexpress would be a better choice regarding this?
I have no Eagle software or any other software for PCB making. Maybe PCBexpress would be a better choice regarding this?
Last edited:
Hi JWB,
You've posted some very useful info on the amp thanks. Wanted to ask you for the steps to take to convert the KSA to KMA.
Also, can you provide more specifics on where you installed the CCS on the input stage?
Finally, I'd like to have several PCB's built for the amp. Do you have plans/pdf?
Thanks,
Ryan
South Africa
You've posted some very useful info on the amp thanks. Wanted to ask you for the steps to take to convert the KSA to KMA.
Also, can you provide more specifics on where you installed the CCS on the input stage?
Finally, I'd like to have several PCB's built for the amp. Do you have plans/pdf?
Thanks,
Ryan
South Africa
I have managed to get hold of one more enclosure with identical heatsinks. Will modify my old dual mono to two monoblocks because of the heat dissipated. I will certainly advise if I go forward with the KMA pcb´s. Can anybody in here tell me the VA rating of the main transformer in the KMA 160 ?
Last edited:
I know it's been five years since the last post in this topic but I thought I'd drop in and mention that I have now been running my pair of KMA-160 monoblocks for TWENTY YEARS and they have behaved perfectly to this very day. I got them some time in 1997 if memory serves. This is the pair that got hosed down in a house fire and rebuilt by myself, spending about 40 man hours of labor on each one to bring them back.
In truth I don't use them that much these days. They do put out a lot of heat and when watching movies I prefer to run cooler running QSC MX1500A commercial power amps, which sound just fine. I really can not say that I would know which amps were being used if subjected to a blind listening test.
I have never modified them and in fact I need to think about recapping them. It's about time for that. The big computer grade main supply caps basically never go bad but all the smaller electrolytics have got to be getting near the end of their service life by now.
I might consider rebiasing them to make them run in class AB above 10 watts or so. I rarely crank it up but lowering the stunning heat output of these beasts would cause me to use them more often. As it is, I have to set the house A/C to 72 in order to maintain the room temperature at 80 when both amps are on and fully warmed up.
In truth I don't use them that much these days. They do put out a lot of heat and when watching movies I prefer to run cooler running QSC MX1500A commercial power amps, which sound just fine. I really can not say that I would know which amps were being used if subjected to a blind listening test.
I have never modified them and in fact I need to think about recapping them. It's about time for that. The big computer grade main supply caps basically never go bad but all the smaller electrolytics have got to be getting near the end of their service life by now.
I might consider rebiasing them to make them run in class AB above 10 watts or so. I rarely crank it up but lowering the stunning heat output of these beasts would cause me to use them more often. As it is, I have to set the house A/C to 72 in order to maintain the room temperature at 80 when both amps are on and fully warmed up.
Hi cmjohnson,
-Chris
Well, I have seen those computer caps fail. Not as often as the smaller snap-mount varieties, but enough so that I would test them to make sure they are still okay. The smaller capacitors tend to fail first, but that may be a function of installing them with the leads bending outward, damaging the seal between the legs and capacitor interior.
-Chris
Sacrilegious. Coupled with the necessity to recap it is probably more sensible to look for a new, more enthusiastic owner.
Imho, these old amps can sound very good but only after a serious investment in caps, including the main filters, binding posts, input terminals and lots of additional work: TO3 reseating, relay replacement, etc.
Hi analog_sa,
If you're going that far, may as well put a new, matched set of outputs and drivers in it using the new On-Semi devices. Compared to all the labour, this isn't that much of an expense. I doubt they matched them at the factory that tightly.
Then, listen to the amp again. It may stay after that work.
-Chris
If you're going that far, may as well put a new, matched set of outputs and drivers in it using the new On-Semi devices. Compared to all the labour, this isn't that much of an expense. I doubt they matched them at the factory that tightly.
Then, listen to the amp again. It may stay after that work.
-Chris
I suppose I could install such a switch in place of the covered second XLR input that would only be used on a KSA-80. I'm averse to modifying the amps in a way that is not completely reversible.
Oddly enough, the Krells have been in my system longer than anything else except my preamp, which is a 1987 vintage Pioneer C90, which is an Elite product but was made before they started putting the Elite name on them. That has more than a quarter million hours on it and it's running good as new. The red standby indicator LED on it has finally faded away to nothingness.
You know you've got some hours on a piece of gear when you time-out an old school red LED.
Wait...I'm wrong. Actually I got my speakers a little bit before I got the Krells. A pair of Aerial Acoustics 10T, which I've also had for more than 20 years.
I don't upgrade much.
Oddly enough, the Krells have been in my system longer than anything else except my preamp, which is a 1987 vintage Pioneer C90, which is an Elite product but was made before they started putting the Elite name on them. That has more than a quarter million hours on it and it's running good as new. The red standby indicator LED on it has finally faded away to nothingness.
You know you've got some hours on a piece of gear when you time-out an old school red LED.
Wait...I'm wrong. Actually I got my speakers a little bit before I got the Krells. A pair of Aerial Acoustics 10T, which I've also had for more than 20 years.
I don't upgrade much.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.