So, here's a quick PDF of the sketch that was used to generate the CNC program for one of the last couple of pairs. To allow for tool bit clearances, the parts aren't nested as tightly as they could be, and they also show the dados on side panels for the front and backs. To allow access for adjusting fill fibre, the bottom panel was made removable with the use of cleats and sealed with foam weatherstripping.
The goofy holey bracing panels at the top of sheet are a royal pain to cut and fit by hand - they need to be dry fit with drivers installed to avoid overstressing their frames, and I can certainly understand taking a different approach.
The goofy holey bracing panels at the top of sheet are a royal pain to cut and fit by hand - they need to be dry fit with drivers installed to avoid overstressing their frames, and I can certainly understand taking a different approach.
thanks so much mate.
1. the inset routes on the side panels is the thickness of the plywood?
2. the bottom panel goes where... flush with the top of the arch for the "legs"?
3. port info.. how long, how big the tube diameter, is it flared?
1. the inset routes on the side panels is the thickness of the plywood?
2. the bottom panel goes where... flush with the top of the arch for the "legs"?
3. port info.. how long, how big the tube diameter, is it flared?
Yes - whether using 15mm or 18mm thick material, I go 5mm deep with those. Feel free to play with that.
On my builds, yes - bottom panel is inset on cleats, flush with the top of the arch. Note that there should be at least 1" of clearance between the port and floor boundary - so if situated on thick carpet, adjust overall height of enclosure and arch accordingly, or add optional base plate as shown on page 3. IIRC, that's exactly what Winslow did with the MT2 and others
details for port dimensions for different drivers is page 9 of the planset, I think. Don't worry about flared ports for these.
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
Hi chrisb and planet 10,
thanks so much for the quick replies.
1b. I believe you are referring to page numbers on the Micro Tower plans found here:
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
2b. I am not quite sure about the port. The plans you posted for the Castle slant tops show a port on the back panel OR is that the speaker connection cleat on the back panel?
This should be ported on the bottom unless I change it? I am using the Alpair7 so the port is 2 inch Diameter by 1.75 inch long no matter where I put the port ( i think I will port to the bottom).?
thanks so much for the quick replies.
1b. I believe you are referring to page numbers on the Micro Tower plans found here:
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
2b. I am not quite sure about the port. The plans you posted for the Castle slant tops show a port on the back panel OR is that the speaker connection cleat on the back panel?
This should be ported on the bottom unless I change it? I am using the Alpair7 so the port is 2 inch Diameter by 1.75 inch long no matter where I put the port ( i think I will port to the bottom).?
ok, if anybody has any of the parts for this for sale please let me know.
Alpair7...4 each
bennic bi-wire input cup - (recommendations?)
Input Cups TD-CUP
banana plugs- 16 each:
Plugs: BP-SZ Single Banana Plug - Black
I need speaker wire
I will use a new Onkyo unit either the TX-8260 or the AV unit TX-NR 686 for power
muchos garcias
Alpair7...4 each
bennic bi-wire input cup - (recommendations?)
Input Cups TD-CUP
banana plugs- 16 each:
Plugs: BP-SZ Single Banana Plug - Black
I need speaker wire
I will use a new Onkyo unit either the TX-8260 or the AV unit TX-NR 686 for power
muchos garcias
Honestly, I'd say - probably only on paper - particularly for most music, much of which has lower power demands than special effects laden movies. Unless you're driving all the surround channels at moderate to higher power, you're not likely overburdening the central power supply .
My Onkyo (TX-NR818) has the ability to digital XO and bi-amp front mains, and after experimenting with that, full-band bi-amping with a bread-boarded outboard passive, and series and parallel passive speaker level XOs on a large MTM, I found that the passive parallel powered by a single pair of channels sounded as good as any of them, and I needn't sacrifice the pair of assignable amp channels. I happen to really like what the front height channels can add to the illusion.
My Onkyo (TX-NR818) has the ability to digital XO and bi-amp front mains, and after experimenting with that, full-band bi-amping with a bread-boarded outboard passive, and series and parallel passive speaker level XOs on a large MTM, I found that the passive parallel powered by a single pair of channels sounded as good as any of them, and I needn't sacrifice the pair of assignable amp channels. I happen to really like what the front height channels can add to the illusion.
Thanks so much chrisb. so you are saying i could run the full range using only the A+B speaker outs from a receiver? I am really leaning towards an Onkyo similar to your... TX NR686 or even the stereo TX 8260
I'm saying you could wire the two drivers in parallel and run them from a single pair of speaker outputs. If really concerned about load on the amp, wire them in series. I've done both, and can's hear a difference in sonics at my normal listening levels. I don't pay particular attention to the setting on the volume control, but most listening is well below 85dB SPL.
Having tried lots of zoomy audiophile grade speaker wire over the years, I've become more than a bit immune to whatever the ad copy says, and my wallet is all the happier for it. For my listening levels, for runs of under 20ft, I generally use nothing thicker than #18. For those long runs to the rear surrounds, I should probably upgrade to maybe #14, but again, at under 85dB, those channels aren't getting much juice.
Pluvia 7?
...will be building (as soon as I've put finishing touches on 12bw/7p two-ways) the microtower castle for two pairs of el70's bought years ago and recently found in the back of a crowded audio closet...panels are already milled...
Just out of curiosity, do Pluvia 7's work ok in the same cab?
...will be building (as soon as I've put finishing touches on 12bw/7p two-ways) the microtower castle for two pairs of el70's bought years ago and recently found in the back of a crowded audio closet...panels are already milled...
Just out of curiosity, do Pluvia 7's work ok in the same cab?
Hey Zia,
Yes castle pics forthcoming when glueing/clamping happens in about a month, but not to worry, much sooner on a different thread will be pics of the simple A12bw/A7p two-way which are done except for veneering.
For the castles I found 1.6" denim ultratouch and will line one side, back and top. I'll also follow your recommendation earlier in the thread and line all panels from top to just below driver line to preclude early reflections, thanks.
Regards,
Mario
Yes castle pics forthcoming when glueing/clamping happens in about a month, but not to worry, much sooner on a different thread will be pics of the simple A12bw/A7p two-way which are done except for veneering.
For the castles I found 1.6" denim ultratouch and will line one side, back and top. I'll also follow your recommendation earlier in the thread and line all panels from top to just below driver line to preclude early reflections, thanks.
Regards,
Mario
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.