Yes I had the same problem the whole fastbond called scotch weld here confusing also they leave of the 2nd part
Ok. I won’t use scotch tape (seems like a bad idea in any case) I’m going to source some 6 um Mylar and use that to do the repairs. As for the tension. I assume if I close the hole such at the two sides are back together, the tension should be fairly similar.
I’m happy for suggestions on how to repair. Sending it to mag roan is unfortunately not an option though.
I’m happy for suggestions on how to repair. Sending it to mag roan is unfortunately not an option though.
Thanks TYU, I did see that site.
Have started working on the 'non' torn speaker. There was some delamination. The previous guy seemed to have used daps of crazy glue. Took me half an evening to clean up 2 sets of wires.
Will not clean everything as that will really take me all weekend, but i'll do it step by step. (especially because i'm worried the wires will actually break).
Curious to see how it will work.
Have started working on the 'non' torn speaker. There was some delamination. The previous guy seemed to have used daps of crazy glue. Took me half an evening to clean up 2 sets of wires.
Will not clean everything as that will really take me all weekend, but i'll do it step by step. (especially because i'm worried the wires will actually break).
Curious to see how it will work.
you might try to find what is called "super thin electrical tape". it has a 1 mil/25 micron thick polyester base and 1.5 mil/37 micron rubber adhesive. The stuff we used at Fermilab was yellow, I suspect from the adhesive. It's available from Mcmaster Carr in the US - McMaster-Carr
I fixed one speaker. it's not rattling anymore from the delamination... but the speaker is sounding really muffled.
Now, i tried a couple of amplifiers and they all have similar results, i'm wondering if it is the amplifier or if it is the speaker.
The amplifiers are no quality amp, but the JVC home theater should be able to drive 4 ohm speakers and that sounded muffled too (i.e. no real nice highs vocals sound like they are behind a very thin wall)
does this sound very familiar and if it is the speaker, what can i do to fix it? (if i need to buy a new amplifier then i'll just have to assume this is fixed)
Now, i tried a couple of amplifiers and they all have similar results, i'm wondering if it is the amplifier or if it is the speaker.
The amplifiers are no quality amp, but the JVC home theater should be able to drive 4 ohm speakers and that sounded muffled too (i.e. no real nice highs vocals sound like they are behind a very thin wall)
does this sound very familiar and if it is the speaker, what can i do to fix it? (if i need to buy a new amplifier then i'll just have to assume this is fixed)
thanks. bypassed the fuse and it was perfect.
going to pick up the mylar tomorrow and fix the other speaker... just removed the tape and am seeing its in bad shape.
does anyone know where i can get the 32mm fuses in eu... preferably in nl?
alternatively can i convert to te smaller 20 mm dimmer fuses? where would i b able to get an adapter?
Better keep a fuse on these old mg1.4!....Magnepan dose not sale the tweeter wire any more!.....I thank it 36ga....Aluminium....
not copper....it roll the top end down...it well work but you lose the magic...been there done this....run no fuse on the magnepan Q ribbon tweeter is fine...you kill your stock wire tweeter you wont find the wire....just saying.....good luck
not copper....it roll the top end down...it well work but you lose the magic...been there done this....run no fuse on the magnepan Q ribbon tweeter is fine...you kill your stock wire tweeter you wont find the wire....just saying.....good luck
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No worry guys, i'm going to run them with a fuse in any case.
The repair's are going to be tough... I removed all the ducktape and scotch tape they use to patch things... it looks quite bad and it is basicly 2 rips one on the top stopping at the black rubber in the middle, and then continueing after the black rubber.
I think I can fix it, i'm just now mainly cleaning (what a though job, especially with the contact clue they used everywhere.... i'm surprised it sounded like it did).
I'll post some pictures soon. I'm videotaping it too... maybe i can make a good movie out of it.
The repair's are going to be tough... I removed all the ducktape and scotch tape they use to patch things... it looks quite bad and it is basicly 2 rips one on the top stopping at the black rubber in the middle, and then continueing after the black rubber.
I think I can fix it, i'm just now mainly cleaning (what a though job, especially with the contact clue they used everywhere.... i'm surprised it sounded like it did).
I'll post some pictures soon. I'm videotaping it too... maybe i can make a good movie out of it.
The repairs are going surprisingly better then I expected....
2 problems i'm trying to solve now:
Near the edges is difficult to get the tension proper and i'm afraid to rip the mylar so it's not going to be as tight as in the middle of the speaker.
1. In the middle I was able to bend the speaker and loosen up the tension a bit, however at the edge of the speaker it is proving to be a lot more difficult to bend the frame (since the top is a metal sheet). I'm unable to loosen the tension of the mylar there to fix it. Is there any advise people can give me? (in any case, i think it should be better then how it was, just patch on with tape not even stretching the mylar)
2. The rip is also near the round black rubber dampeners/ankers. Is there any easy way to fix the mylar there? Do i need to fix it there or is the wire going through it enough of an anker for the mylar sheet? It doesn't seem to be easy to remove it, since it will require drilling to remove it (which i'm not going to do).
p.s. i'm missing one of the hex screws used to fix the speaker cable... Does anyone know where i can get them (or what size they are?). Alternatively. Does anyone know if a spade connector will work on these things? (banana plug would just be loose)
2 problems i'm trying to solve now:
Near the edges is difficult to get the tension proper and i'm afraid to rip the mylar so it's not going to be as tight as in the middle of the speaker.
1. In the middle I was able to bend the speaker and loosen up the tension a bit, however at the edge of the speaker it is proving to be a lot more difficult to bend the frame (since the top is a metal sheet). I'm unable to loosen the tension of the mylar there to fix it. Is there any advise people can give me? (in any case, i think it should be better then how it was, just patch on with tape not even stretching the mylar)
2. The rip is also near the round black rubber dampeners/ankers. Is there any easy way to fix the mylar there? Do i need to fix it there or is the wire going through it enough of an anker for the mylar sheet? It doesn't seem to be easy to remove it, since it will require drilling to remove it (which i'm not going to do).
p.s. i'm missing one of the hex screws used to fix the speaker cable... Does anyone know where i can get them (or what size they are?). Alternatively. Does anyone know if a spade connector will work on these things? (banana plug would just be loose)
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Update. Build is done and it's sounding really good as a pair. However, the speaker with the tear is missing the sparkle at the high end. it sounds a bit dissapointing on it's own... I'm wondering if that's because of the tension, the extra weight of the repairs or something entirely different.
Does anyone care to make a quess?
I've used new fuses and also shorted the fuse just to make sure it's not that. The tweeter is working because the sound is very different when the fuse is out.
Does anyone care to make a quess?
I've used new fuses and also shorted the fuse just to make sure it's not that. The tweeter is working because the sound is very different when the fuse is out.
The way the magnepans reach up to 18-10 khz is by the tension on the foil, if it is sloppy it cuts as low as 14khz-16khz. that might be it. weight might also be a problem but i dont think you added soooo much glue
especially in the tweeter areaDid you replace the tweeter wire on any of the speakers? I have put tweeter kits in an SMGa and MGII. Also repaired delamination in both. Putting in new tweeters was not that hard to do. They do have the proper wire. You can order repair kits with the proper adhesive from them. Their instructions talk about repairing rips with Scotch tape. If you replace tweeters try to go light with the Scotch 30 over the top of the wire.
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