Magic INK continues !!!!
funny i watched all his video few weeks back.
well to get back to ink. i was in a hobby shop and wanted to buy some foam brushes. when i once again bought 2 botles of ink. (black)
1 bottle i tested on a piece of paper drew 6 linres 1 pure and then 1-1 with watter etc until 1-5 ratio
weird enough these where the results, measured crued with to pennys approx 2 cm from each other.
1 2.9 Meg
2 22 Meg
3 8 Meg (must have mixed badly)
4 22.7 Meg
5 30 Meg
6 42 Meg
Brand is darwi indian Ink
well nice i though, when deluted still works fine.
i did some tests on mylar.
Surface tention is a problem
eveporated as much of the liqued in the ink to replace it with ethanol alcohol so the surface tention goes waay down.
ok now i could paint , without weird droplets and stuff.
but conductivity.... out of my range even pure above 200 Meg.
i then added allot of alcohol and stired for a while andlet the bottle sit there for a night.
next day i removed all the alcohol on top as best as i could.
Since the tests on paper worked so good i think the stuff that makes the ink water proof gets soaked into the paper leaving the carbon on top. hence conductivity. with mylar there is no way the binder (i think some kind of oily or arabic gom type stuff) can soak in. so it encapsuled the carbon. hence not conductivity. only when i scratch is it will conduct slightly for onle few minutes.
I cleaned the bottle from the alcohol floating on top, i now hoped i would end up with the carbon and less of the binder since it disolves in the alcohol wich i removed as much as posible.
Now when i put it on the mylar i get readings of 3 meg to 180 M Ohm
If someone has a better idea to get rid of this binder pls let me know. i dont think this is a reliable way to make a coating but thought i share it with you guys. who knows what it will bring.
funny i watched all his video few weeks back.
well to get back to ink. i was in a hobby shop and wanted to buy some foam brushes. when i once again bought 2 botles of ink. (black)
1 bottle i tested on a piece of paper drew 6 linres 1 pure and then 1-1 with watter etc until 1-5 ratio
weird enough these where the results, measured crued with to pennys approx 2 cm from each other.
1 2.9 Meg
2 22 Meg
3 8 Meg (must have mixed badly)
4 22.7 Meg
5 30 Meg
6 42 Meg
Brand is darwi indian Ink
well nice i though, when deluted still works fine.
i did some tests on mylar.
Surface tention is a problem
eveporated as much of the liqued in the ink to replace it with ethanol alcohol so the surface tention goes waay down.
ok now i could paint , without weird droplets and stuff.
but conductivity.... out of my range even pure above 200 Meg.
i then added allot of alcohol and stired for a while andlet the bottle sit there for a night.
next day i removed all the alcohol on top as best as i could.
Since the tests on paper worked so good i think the stuff that makes the ink water proof gets soaked into the paper leaving the carbon on top. hence conductivity. with mylar there is no way the binder (i think some kind of oily or arabic gom type stuff) can soak in. so it encapsuled the carbon. hence not conductivity. only when i scratch is it will conduct slightly for onle few minutes.
I cleaned the bottle from the alcohol floating on top, i now hoped i would end up with the carbon and less of the binder since it disolves in the alcohol wich i removed as much as posible.
Now when i put it on the mylar i get readings of 3 meg to 180 M Ohm
If someone has a better idea to get rid of this binder pls let me know. i dont think this is a reliable way to make a coating but thought i share it with you guys. who knows what it will bring.
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I did not observe any voltage effects (EC-coating, megger up to 1kV).
Contact area and pressure, any accumulted dirt, do have effects. Maybe high voltage measurements are less sensitive to these parameters, i didn't investigate that.
Hi everyone.
I was recently redoing my headphones diaphragms and i decide to try something...
Normally i used the original coating from ER Audio that *ROB MACKINLAY provided me with 3.5 um Mylar film that works fine.
This time i asked my wife if we have some fabric softener for laundry, and she gave me a bottle bottom of Ultra Fleecy.
I read that the stuff contol static cling, i know most people knows that.
But i decided to try it anyway, and it worked very well.
You'll asked, what about long term stability? I dont know only time will tell.
The only thing i know is it improved the loudness of my drivers a lot.
It was easy to apply directly from the bottle with a cotton swab. At first the liquid seems not to wet the film but working it by circular movement it ended perfectly wet.
When it begin to dry it seems to leave some oily blob, so i rub them with my finger.
At this stage the film is not pretty at all, but i figure out that i can melt the coating with a hair dryer at low heat taking care of not heating too much so i am not heat shrinking the film.
The coating melt like a wax, that is dry to contact but flexible. Leaving just a little blueish haze.
I measure about 120 Meg Ohms from center to outer bias ring.
Maybe next time i diluted the stuff with pure water for increasing resistivity.
It's been a week now and it still works!
Oh there is an added bonus it leave a fresh sent of soft mother's touch.
Hope it helps.
Mandrake5.
I was recently redoing my headphones diaphragms and i decide to try something...
Normally i used the original coating from ER Audio that *ROB MACKINLAY provided me with 3.5 um Mylar film that works fine.
This time i asked my wife if we have some fabric softener for laundry, and she gave me a bottle bottom of Ultra Fleecy.
I read that the stuff contol static cling, i know most people knows that.
But i decided to try it anyway, and it worked very well.
You'll asked, what about long term stability? I dont know only time will tell.
The only thing i know is it improved the loudness of my drivers a lot.
It was easy to apply directly from the bottle with a cotton swab. At first the liquid seems not to wet the film but working it by circular movement it ended perfectly wet.
When it begin to dry it seems to leave some oily blob, so i rub them with my finger.
At this stage the film is not pretty at all, but i figure out that i can melt the coating with a hair dryer at low heat taking care of not heating too much so i am not heat shrinking the film.
The coating melt like a wax, that is dry to contact but flexible. Leaving just a little blueish haze.
I measure about 120 Meg Ohms from center to outer bias ring.
Maybe next time i diluted the stuff with pure water for increasing resistivity.
It's been a week now and it still works!
Oh there is an added bonus it leave a fresh sent of soft mother's touch.
Hope it helps.
Mandrake5.
Maybe the smell is fading but not the sound.
It was very interresting to read about such chemestry innovations but should i pointed out that we are still DIY'ers. For me i prefer down to earth solutions, with ingredients that are easily obtainable from household products. Or at least not too expensive to order. But like many DIY i prefer to homebrew something myself.
For the sent they sell some granules with long lasting sent that i can insert in the earpad ha ha ha...
It was very interresting to read about such chemestry innovations but should i pointed out that we are still DIY'ers. For me i prefer down to earth solutions, with ingredients that are easily obtainable from household products. Or at least not too expensive to order. But like many DIY i prefer to homebrew something myself.
For the sent they sell some granules with long lasting sent that i can insert in the earpad ha ha ha...
I have reworked ML panels that had NO output..... a dab of Dish soap on one finger.....run it a long the the mylar bias feeder copper strip....an this made the panels start playing till this day.....an I even now do this with ML working panels...dust builds up at that high bias point for some reason hehe.....
I have read.....Acoustats Jim Strickland used Preel shampoo as coating...... to make some of his first panels.......
Soap work great on the hole panels vary high output...but dose not last for ever.....heheh...just like me!
But thanks to others here....looks like the Licron spray is the real deal.....less than $40.
US......................good luck
I have read.....Acoustats Jim Strickland used Preel shampoo as coating...... to make some of his first panels.......
Soap work great on the hole panels vary high output...but dose not last for ever.....heheh...just like me!
But thanks to others here....looks like the Licron spray is the real deal.....less than $40.
US......................good luck
my coating
1. Spiritus 25%
2. Velpon glue 75%
3. Graphite powder.
Costs: 1e/ltr? It's very cheap!
Add this in a bottle and keep it very, very liquid! You need to let it 'flood-out' on the mylar when you wipe it out. I did use a paint roller and it's great on my golden - alu mylars. Due to the spiritus it might dry quite fast. So check this. Take care of a stable amount of the graphites on the foil.
#1 the golden - alu conductive foil:
#2 - 2 layers of my coating:
#3 - the testpanel with a lot, to much coating. It played loud with all the details you want:
- The Gold-Alu-Mylar itself played also without the coating, but with coating I got more volume from the mylar. That's nice
1. Spiritus 25%
2. Velpon glue 75%
3. Graphite powder.
Costs: 1e/ltr? It's very cheap!
Add this in a bottle and keep it very, very liquid! You need to let it 'flood-out' on the mylar when you wipe it out. I did use a paint roller and it's great on my golden - alu mylars. Due to the spiritus it might dry quite fast. So check this. Take care of a stable amount of the graphites on the foil.
#1 the golden - alu conductive foil:
#2 - 2 layers of my coating:
#3 - the testpanel with a lot, to much coating. It played loud with all the details you want:
- The Gold-Alu-Mylar itself played also without the coating, but with coating I got more volume from the mylar. That's nice
In this formula the resistance could be controlled by the hygroscopic velpon (this can be proven by measuring the resistance).
If you want it to be (uniformly!) controlled by the graphite you probably would need quite a lot of it resulting in a high mass coating.
1. Spiritus 25%
2. Velpon glue 75%
3. Graphite powder.
Costs: 1e/ltr? It's very cheap!
Add this in a bottle and keep it very, very liquid! You need to let it 'flood-out' on the mylar when you wipe it out. I did use a paint roller and it's great on my golden - alu mylars. Due to the spiritus it might dry quite fast. So check this. Take care of a stable amount of the graphites on the foil
- The Gold-Alu-Mylar itself played also without the coating, but with coating I got more volume from the mylar. That's nice
Interesting. So you have combined a very conductive coating with a higher resistive coating. You say it plays louder? I have been wondering about adding a high resistive coating to my aluminized mylar too. Do you think it prevents charge migration?
Hi,
he hasn´t combined two coatings with different resistivity.
It´s one high-resistivity coating filled with some low resistivity filler material.
As MJ already noted You´d need a considerable amount of filler to achieve a noticeable effect .... and You need to ensure that the filler material is distributed among as even as possible within the coating .... probabely not diyable but in form of a carbon loaded ink.
jauu
Calvin
he hasn´t combined two coatings with different resistivity.
It´s one high-resistivity coating filled with some low resistivity filler material.
As MJ already noted You´d need a considerable amount of filler to achieve a noticeable effect .... and You need to ensure that the filler material is distributed among as even as possible within the coating .... probabely not diyable but in form of a carbon loaded ink.
jauu
Calvin
1. the gold side is NOT conductive
2. the alu foil below the gold paint is conductive
3. remove the gold paint on the coppertape part of the foil with thinner
4. check conduction over the foil from the wiped-out gold paint => 25-50ohm on 20cm width of my stator.
5. connect and press the coppertape from the passive stator.
6. connect the stators & play 110db out of it.
So.... no need to create and use coating at all.
just this is what you need: reddingsdeken - Google Search