Need help building open baffle/bass reflex hybrid

Hi,
I too have built these. Mine look exactly like the ones above. I used a 20uf cap and a moderate amount of polyfill inside. I had the idea of experimenting with the amount but haven't changed it yet. i am still using them with dual 15" h-frame subs crossed at 200. I would like to build the one sold with the lxmini someday but I am happy for now.

These have spoiled me. I also have Bagby Continuum and LXmini speakers. These Brios have moved to the front of the line. They are all so different but I prefer the Brios for now.
I hope that your builds are going well. One day I hope to get access to a 3D printer so that I can create some badges for them. I saw a thread where someone made some Hola badges for his clones. I thought that was kinda cool.
Good luck.
 
I know you said they look like the ones above, but how about some photos? Did you make any measurements?

It's interesting that you say you prefer them at the moment to the LXminis. I built mine because I wanted some cheap desktop speakers, but there's no way they would replace my LXminis as a floor standing speaker, even with the sub.

Graham
 
I know you said they look like the ones above, but how about some photos? Did you make any measurements?

It's interesting that you say you prefer them at the moment to the LXminis. I built mine because I wanted some cheap desktop speakers, but there's no way they would replace my LXminis as a floor standing speaker, even with the sub.

Graham

Hi Graham,
You have inspired me to put my LXminis back into action. I am going to spend some time with them over the next couple of weeks and compare them head to head with the Nola clones.

I will post some pictures of both sets when I get them up and running.
Wendell
 
Which 20uf capacitors at PE work well for this? Don't want to get the wrong thing and I'm not sure if any old 20uf will do.

I used film capacitors from Solen. They had 18 and 22uf but the 18's measured at 20 so I used those.



Hi Graham,
You have inspired me to put my LXminis back into action. I am going to spend some time with them over the next couple of weeks and compare them head to head with the Nola clones.

Did you buy the (LXmini) kit or do your own build? I'm intrigued by that design. I built something very similar in the 90's with some budget drivers and heavy cardboard tube to test the concept. They were definitely better than the sum of their parts.
 

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i made a model of this for desktop, and abandoned project, peaky for my ears. like the spaciousness on top and all and used a dayton cap. made a mock to start on carboard before transferring to wood. having the 2 drivers giving highs dint like. made a mistake of putting drivers together created comb filter, but i think im doing something different. thinking to do karlsonator. have the wood cut and all, but again with my tpa3116 amp was too bright and peaky for me. gave me tinitus. :confused:
 
I used film capacitors from Solen. They had 18 and 22uf but the 18's measured at 20 so I used those.





Did you buy the (LXmini) kit or do your own build? I'm intrigued by that design. I built something very similar in the 90's with some budget drivers and heavy cardboard tube to test the concept. They were definitely better than the sum of their parts.

I have not bought the plans. I am really curious about the crossover. I feel like it might make a huge difference. I built mine by doing a lot of reading to find out the height and dimensions. I then looked around for pre-cut wood pieces at the local craft store. I was able to put together a nice looking pair. I do think that they are a 3-4 inches too tall for my tastes and my listening chair. For the crossover, I looked at the charts for the upper frequency driver on the website and tried to replicate all of the charts as best I could. I have about a half dozen different versions of the crossover saved and I change it around based on the room where I have the speakers set up.
 
Playing around with my new Galaxy Audio (bottom right).

The plan is to put some of these speakers in the wall soon for an infinite baffle configuration with bass support below. I'm a big fan of the W5 Tang band (incidentally I have the venerable TC9 also and I can tell you that open baffle I'm hard pressed to tell the difference between it and my W5, the W5 just does more bass in a sealed box which is another reason I like it so much:)).

Nevertheless, the W5 and TC9 are a bit shy on top. I've been using the 3 and 4" Faital's to make up for that, they are anything but shy on top, but they get a little fatiguing for my ears and don't always sound "natural" and as lush as I'd like.

So I pulled the plug on the Galaxy Audio. For the $52 price of admission I gotta say this is a very well behaved, great sounding driver and well made. Neodymium magnet, aluminum frame, heck it's even got ferro fluid. It's a touch louder than the Tang Band, 92.5 vs 90, but that doesn't seem to hurt their harmonizing at all.

It sounds terrific in this hybrid, sealed, Brio Trio even without a 20uf. I can't wait to get it inside the wall where I think they both belong, but I'm enjoying them quite a lot right now.

Happy speaker building.
 

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a small BSC circuit would've probably solved the Faital's higher sensitivity and ear fatiguing feeling.

Glad you found and like the Galaxy Audio driver. That's their 5" version, right?
Never heard them, but the most important is what they can do for you.

Good luck with the construction!
 
Thanks! Yes, it's the 5"

Yes I need to stop being lazy and learn me some more audiophile skills. Problem is, in addition to the aformentioned laziness, it's fun to buy new speakers and fairly easy to sell the ones you get tired of. It doesn't help that some people preach audio goodness through a pure signal path either.

I am very happy with it though. If it did more bass I think I'd ditch the w5's and that's saying something. I think it's doing just what I need it to though, help out just a tad on top without hurting the sweet midrange of my Tang's. I guess a 20uf wouldn't hurt that idea either. Next stop at PE I'll be getting a few. You'll definitely be hearing from me if they improve the sound even more.
 
I have not bought the plans. I am really curious about the crossover. I feel like it might make a huge difference. I built mine by doing a lot of reading to find out the height and dimensions. I then looked around for pre-cut wood pieces at the local craft store. I was able to put together a nice looking pair. I do think that they are a 3-4 inches too tall for my tastes and my listening chair. For the crossover, I looked at the charts for the upper frequency driver on the website and tried to replicate all of the charts as best I could. I have about a half dozen different versions of the crossover saved and I change it around based on the room where I have the speakers set up.

I'm going to do another build similar to the one I did in the 90's. Then I used heavy cardboard tubes about 36" high with a top firing 4" woofer and front firing paper cone tweeter with very low fs. They had a really engaging sound with great imaging. This time I'll use a BR design in PVC with much better drivers and a front firing open baffle TG9
 
Hi guys,
I started a new thread in the multi way forum for my new build. I am playing around with the Nola Micro Reference Gold. I also posted some pictures with it. They sound really great but I would like to try them with the 5" woofers in the cabinet. Do you guys have any suggestions for solid 5" woofers?
 

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Sorry if this has already been suggested - I’m reading through the thread slowly. Is it possible that the two drivers are in series and the single cap is used to bypass one driver? That would have only one driver delivering HF (OB?) and both delivering LF.

The wntire basis of this project design is such that the open baffle driver can't perform at a high enough spl at lower frequencies to keep up with the ported driver below it before reaching xmax. I believe the original design had the upper open baffle driver high passed at 1khz but I could be wrong. You could probably go lower but overall spl would become a limiting factor. Some with more technical knowledge could probably give a better explanation or suggestions.

Wes