Thought I'd throw in my 2¢ with this little build. I've been playing around with some of the Aurasound drivers + 3D printed front baffles and foam core enclosures. I've landed on one design that turned out really well.
It's a 4L foam core enclosure tuned to about 50Hz, 15mm thick walls, with a 3D printed front baffle so I could try integrating the port as well as making mounting a bit easier. Drivers are crossed at 500Hz, first order on the woofer and 2nd order on the tweeter. The sim response from Akabak looks pretty OK too.
They sound really good! Plenty of bass for such a tiny footprint, mates were convinced I had a sub hiding in the room somewhere.
Will eventually build the enclosure from MDF but the foam core works wonders for quick tests!
It's a 4L foam core enclosure tuned to about 50Hz, 15mm thick walls, with a 3D printed front baffle so I could try integrating the port as well as making mounting a bit easier. Drivers are crossed at 500Hz, first order on the woofer and 2nd order on the tweeter. The sim response from Akabak looks pretty OK too.
They sound really good! Plenty of bass for such a tiny footprint, mates were convinced I had a sub hiding in the room somewhere.
Will eventually build the enclosure from MDF but the foam core works wonders for quick tests!
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Thanks! Yup I did, it's fairly basic and over-kill in terms of the quality of the parts used (cost almost as much as the drivers!) but it does the job pretty well.
The 3D print works great for tests like this, I've always had issues mounting drivers in foam core and usually end up just hot gluing them in which makes recycling for new builds a nightmare.
If you get the chance to give printing a go, make sure it's at a high percentage infill otherwise you get some nasty resonances and de-lamination going on around the woofers. It allows for some really cool design possibilities though!
The 3D print works great for tests like this, I've always had issues mounting drivers in foam core and usually end up just hot gluing them in which makes recycling for new builds a nightmare.
If you get the chance to give printing a go, make sure it's at a high percentage infill otherwise you get some nasty resonances and de-lamination going on around the woofers. It allows for some really cool design possibilities though!
I have used 3d printing but for mostly internal synergy horn type stuff. Just did not think of using it for the baffle.
Here was my bookshelf point source horn:
A Bookshelf Multi-Way Point-Source Horn
Here was my bookshelf point source horn:
A Bookshelf Multi-Way Point-Source Horn
I just bought XRK's favorite driver, peerless TC9FD $12 to go with my other 30 or so - Why, I don't know, I guess I'm addicted. Anyway, I would like to ask XRK, of all the enclosures you have made with the Tc9fd, which is your favorite because I want to make one.
On the subject of 3d printing: I have printed spiral ports that have worked well. I was wondering, Skyrocket, since I have the same aura speaker in my basket of many speakers, would you be ok to send the 3D baffle file. I know you spent a lot of time designing it so no problem if you don't want to.
Thanks
On the subject of 3d printing: I have printed spiral ports that have worked well. I was wondering, Skyrocket, since I have the same aura speaker in my basket of many speakers, would you be ok to send the 3D baffle file. I know you spent a lot of time designing it so no problem if you don't want to.
Thanks
Thanks X!
Just wanted to say thanks to Xrk for inspiring my latest foam core build. It took me days to put this together start to finish, rather than weeks if i did it out of traditional materials and methods. I used a TB1876 subwoofer and two Dayton CE65W-8's with a TPA3118 plate amp. It sounds better than expected. I hope the foam core can hold up to the beating the 1876 is giving the enclosure walls.
Just wanted to say thanks to Xrk for inspiring my latest foam core build. It took me days to put this together start to finish, rather than weeks if i did it out of traditional materials and methods. I used a TB1876 subwoofer and two Dayton CE65W-8's with a TPA3118 plate amp. It sounds better than expected. I hope the foam core can hold up to the beating the 1876 is giving the enclosure walls.
Thanks X for your advice on which enclosure to use for your favorite driver. I have been reading about 0.40x K'nator for the last 6 hours. However, I did come across another of your post where you said that The deepest clearest bass with TC9FD is the DCR design I made. It's 50Hz and fairly low distortion at moderate volumes = Viva la Vifa! Curvy Cabinet DCR with TC9FD.
Also, I think you designed a wall mounted Amltl that you really liked that got down to about 35Hz with the TC9fd (maybe I got that wrong since that would be impressive.)
So just to be sure before I start cutting foamcore, which do you like better?
Thanks again for all that you do for this forum - you are everywhere!
scott
Also, I think you designed a wall mounted Amltl that you really liked that got down to about 35Hz with the TC9fd (maybe I got that wrong since that would be impressive.)
So just to be sure before I start cutting foamcore, which do you like better?
Thanks again for all that you do for this forum - you are everywhere!
scott
No but I've used those big plastic containers you get from Bunnings to store things. Made a Frankenstein test speaker to test crossover. Big baffle woofers at end open baffle style the plastic bin was the chamber for two five inch miss and a tweeter in a D'appolotto fashion . Silicone and grey gaffer tape a plenty.
The DCR is very good but is for near field as the volume is limited as it uses a rather oppressive BSC circuit to get the response flat. For overall musical listening enjoyment, the Karlsonator is better. The wall mounted AMLTL gets deep mostly due to room modes and assistance of being wall mounted.
I'm struggling with some theory about the selection of a wall mounted cornu vs a smaller wall mounted tapered T-Line. My assumptions are and they could easily be wrong:
1. Both will be help with wall bass enhancement
2. The horn will be louder (T-Line just needs more watts) but the bass will not be as deep as the T-Line taper will lower the fs/fb.
3. T-Line will be smaller
4. I think there will be less resonance problems with a stuffed, 1/3 driver placement, tapered T-Line (although I'm not sure about that.)
5. both can have the same depth
6. Both can be covered by art cloth.
So I must be missing something, and being a student of the forum's experts, I'm just trying to learn.
Also, I would like to understand why a dual T-Line (almost twice as large) as a single T-Line - see picture. Is it louder, or less resonance, or just a marketing thing? If it has merit, I would like to add it to my builds.
And lastly, and most important, since I will be using your (Xrt971) build of either the 0.40x Karlsonator or the DCR in a near field small room, I just really want to be sure that in that environment, which you would choose. I only ask again, because you mentioned "Near Field" and that is where it will be.
Thanks
1. Both will be help with wall bass enhancement
2. The horn will be louder (T-Line just needs more watts) but the bass will not be as deep as the T-Line taper will lower the fs/fb.
3. T-Line will be smaller
4. I think there will be less resonance problems with a stuffed, 1/3 driver placement, tapered T-Line (although I'm not sure about that.)
5. both can have the same depth
6. Both can be covered by art cloth.
So I must be missing something, and being a student of the forum's experts, I'm just trying to learn.
Also, I would like to understand why a dual T-Line (almost twice as large) as a single T-Line - see picture. Is it louder, or less resonance, or just a marketing thing? If it has merit, I would like to add it to my builds.
And lastly, and most important, since I will be using your (Xrt971) build of either the 0.40x Karlsonator or the DCR in a near field small room, I just really want to be sure that in that environment, which you would choose. I only ask again, because you mentioned "Near Field" and that is where it will be.
Thanks
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Make all of them out of foam core and see what you like. All are 4-6 hrs of time each to make and have their own special qualities. If you want big sound on a wall (but less bass extension) then Cornu. If you want desktop computer speakers with deep extension and accurate sound, then DCR. If you want the most efficient, easy to listen to, high smile factor, and still compact bookshelf or computer speaker, but don't care about accuracy, the 0.40x Karlsonator. If you must have accurate and on wall, then a flat pizza box style tapered TL can work. You just have to start building and less fretting over choosing the "right" one. There is no right one - as any DIY'er will tell you. You make one speaker after another on a long journey.
What I will reiterate though after making about 40 different speakers is this: there is no higher bang for the buck and smile factor than the 0.40x Karlsonator. It uses a less than a $1 sheet of foam core, a $12 driver, and has immense sound presence for its size. A great first project. If you are more serious and want accurate sound then make the DCR, but it sounds no better for general listening.
What I will reiterate though after making about 40 different speakers is this: there is no higher bang for the buck and smile factor than the 0.40x Karlsonator. It uses a less than a $1 sheet of foam core, a $12 driver, and has immense sound presence for its size. A great first project. If you are more serious and want accurate sound then make the DCR, but it sounds no better for general listening.
Perfect answer and it gave me the info I needed to make the right choice. I already have many builds, both foamcore and wood but not a TL or Cornu so it will be fun. For me, after so many builds (but not as many as you), the theory and collecting info on different types of enclosures/drivers is more exciting then the actual building since I already have two Home theater systems with 4 subs and over 25 speakers.
So the build I'm going to do and will publish it here, will be a foamcore combo wall/desktop 12x12x4 adjustable 26 to 38 length Tapered T-line for 3 and 4" drivers.
Thanks for all your help
PS, I still would like to know about my Dual vs single T-Line and why some designs use it, if anyone knows.
So the build I'm going to do and will publish it here, will be a foamcore combo wall/desktop 12x12x4 adjustable 26 to 38 length Tapered T-line for 3 and 4" drivers.
Thanks for all your help
PS, I still would like to know about my Dual vs single T-Line and why some designs use it, if anyone knows.
Hi xrk971
In this post ##2875
Foam Core Board Speaker Enclosures?
I didn't see anywhere TABAQ (a speaker that impressed me) especialy the folded_TABAQ. For placement in a distance of almost 10~15 cm (I'm in Europe-Greece. Metric system) from the wall, sounds better in a 14m2 (bed)room from the DCR ?
In this post ##2875
Foam Core Board Speaker Enclosures?
I didn't see anywhere TABAQ (a speaker that impressed me) especialy the folded_TABAQ. For placement in a distance of almost 10~15 cm (I'm in Europe-Greece. Metric system) from the wall, sounds better in a 14m2 (bed)room from the DCR ?