Heya guys,
I am planning to build a portable audio device from a wooden log
What I want:
2 Fullrange drivers (6" max, outside diameter must be below 16cm) With acceptable sound.
An amplifier, preferably with a bluetooth option.
A lithium battery
Lowest possible room (approx 4-5 liters for each driver)
I am planning to build a simple boombox with only the necessary components. The only things I want to put on the outside of the case are a charging port for the battery, an aux-in for the sound input and a power switch. There is no need for Stereo sound or any specialties for Higher sound Quality, its just a simple Boombox
I need to find the right drivers (max. 100€/unit) to achieve this goal, and Tips to find a good AMP for it. As well I appreciate help and tips regarding my design.
Here's an attachment of the case so far.
Wooden ghettoblaster - Album on Imgur
I hope you can help me.
Regards
HCB
I am planning to build a portable audio device from a wooden log
What I want:
2 Fullrange drivers (6" max, outside diameter must be below 16cm) With acceptable sound.
An amplifier, preferably with a bluetooth option.
A lithium battery
Lowest possible room (approx 4-5 liters for each driver)
I am planning to build a simple boombox with only the necessary components. The only things I want to put on the outside of the case are a charging port for the battery, an aux-in for the sound input and a power switch. There is no need for Stereo sound or any specialties for Higher sound Quality, its just a simple Boombox
I need to find the right drivers (max. 100€/unit) to achieve this goal, and Tips to find a good AMP for it. As well I appreciate help and tips regarding my design.
Here's an attachment of the case so far.
Wooden ghettoblaster - Album on Imgur
I hope you can help me.
Regards
HCB
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Take care that the log does not crack due to humidity changes and wood drying out. As an option, you can put a PVC pipe inside
Yeah, in fact the log has been made almost two years ago, so no worries about it drying anymore. The PVC pipe isn't actually a bad idea, and I am considering to do just that. Alternatively I could reinforce the inside with some hose clamps, and after which "wrap" the inside with some latex wrapping to still have it airtight if the wood ever cracks up somewhere.
HCB
The drivers look nice, though are not suitable for this case, the shape should be a circle in order to be mounted properly to the case. The amplifier seems good, I'll mark that one down c: Thanks for your response!
HCB
You'll want to have a separate compartment for each driver, I think, and a lid in the middle to service the electronics.
6" fullrages - maybe this one'll do? https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-2144-6-1-2-paper-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--264-959
You'll want to find a EU webshop for it, I think.
Johan-Kr
6" fullrages - maybe this one'll do? https://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-2144-6-1-2-paper-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--264-959
You'll want to find a EU webshop for it, I think.
Johan-Kr
Regarding size and shape, those ones are perfect, the only thing that rises suspicion is the optimum cabinet size section, does the "Sealed Volume 0.60 ft.³" mean that I need 0.60 ft.³ of airspace for the speaker to produce a listenable sound, or does it work properly with less airspace as well?
HCB
HCB
You can go down to around 8 litres per driver. This is a quick simulation, using the published specs. Green line is 16 litres. Red line is 7.8 litres.
You won't get a lot of bass out of a 6" fullrange in a relatively small, sealed box. The constraints of getting a decent hf response, will neccessitate a relatively high fs and limited excursion capabilities, I'm afraid.
The 8 litre box will probably sound like it has more bass, by sacrificing a little low end. It's a common trick for small speakers, and it will not be any worse than for instance a pair of LS3/A speakers.
Johan-Kr
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You won't get a lot of bass out of a 6" fullrange in a relatively small, sealed box. The constraints of getting a decent hf response, will neccessitate a relatively high fs and limited excursion capabilities, I'm afraid.
The 8 litre box will probably sound like it has more bass, by sacrificing a little low end. It's a common trick for small speakers, and it will not be any worse than for instance a pair of LS3/A speakers.
Johan-Kr
Just add in one of Rod Elliott's Linkwitz Transform projects and you'll be good to go!
Linkwitz Transform Subwoofer Equaliser
If you have a 6-inch inside diameter log that is 3 feet long, that would be 0.59 cubic feet, which looks to be fine for the TangBand W6-2144 driver.
Linkwitz Transform Subwoofer Equaliser
If you have a 6-inch inside diameter log that is 3 feet long, that would be 0.59 cubic feet, which looks to be fine for the TangBand W6-2144 driver.
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Full range drivers normally doesn't have very much Xmax. The construction details needed to do treble well, combined with high(ish) sensitivity will usually set limits to what Xmax can be achieved.
There are some exceptions. Seas has a new one, the FEA18RCZ 6,5", that has 6mm p-p Xmax and 14mm p-p Xmech. This can handle some LT boost. About 50Hz -3dB should be doable.
H1794-08 FEA18RCZ
Johan-Kr
There are some exceptions. Seas has a new one, the FEA18RCZ 6,5", that has 6mm p-p Xmax and 14mm p-p Xmech. This can handle some LT boost. About 50Hz -3dB should be doable.
H1794-08 FEA18RCZ
Johan-Kr
Almost all of parts express' is sold at loudspeakerfreaks, including ones like HiVi and Dayton.
Oh and xmax is c-p not p-p.
P-p is 6mm.
Fenalaar: I don't want to be rude, but get yourself up to date with the terms xmax and xmech. Xmax is centre to peak linear (non distorted) and xmech is also centre to peak but true mechanical limits (possibly over thermal limits) at which if it goes further it rips. Xmech is usually also the case when the coil former hits the back plate or leaves the air gap.
Cheers,
Anna
Oh and xmax is c-p not p-p.
P-p is 6mm.
Fenalaar: I don't want to be rude, but get yourself up to date with the terms xmax and xmech. Xmax is centre to peak linear (non distorted) and xmech is also centre to peak but true mechanical limits (possibly over thermal limits) at which if it goes further it rips. Xmech is usually also the case when the coil former hits the back plate or leaves the air gap.
Cheers,
Anna
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Seas clearly states their figures as p-p. The practice varies between makers.
Volt for instance states on the product page for the B2549 max excursion at 36mm. When you dig deeper to the spec sheet, you find this is a p-p figure, whereas Xmax here is defined as +-10mm.
Trusting spec sheets to conform to standards, and stick to the definition of c-p can bite your behind.
There's no need to be condescending. The Tangband is an underhung design with a 10mm air gap. A c-p Xmax of 3mm here would imply a vc height of only 4mm. Given that Tangband doesn't state explicit if they use +- figures or p-p figures, the lesser figure was most probable. (Yeah, I know a$$ u me)...
However, given that the Tangband has an underhung voice coil, I would still be careful about pushing it very much with a Linkwitz transform, even though the 3mm figure is c-p.
Oh, and by the way - Loudspeakerfreaks are Europe-audio under another name. You may want to do som research before shopping.
Volt for instance states on the product page for the B2549 max excursion at 36mm. When you dig deeper to the spec sheet, you find this is a p-p figure, whereas Xmax here is defined as +-10mm.
Trusting spec sheets to conform to standards, and stick to the definition of c-p can bite your behind.
There's no need to be condescending. The Tangband is an underhung design with a 10mm air gap. A c-p Xmax of 3mm here would imply a vc height of only 4mm. Given that Tangband doesn't state explicit if they use +- figures or p-p figures, the lesser figure was most probable. (Yeah, I know a$$ u me)...
However, given that the Tangband has an underhung voice coil, I would still be careful about pushing it very much with a Linkwitz transform, even though the 3mm figure is c-p.
Oh, and by the way - Loudspeakerfreaks are Europe-audio under another name. You may want to do som research before shopping.
I know about Europe audio. Trust me though when I say I'm very very satisfied. Me and Jean have been getting along well and he's very open to feedback to. They changed alot for the better!
They do have a very large catalog. Posts on the forum indicates that one should be careful, and don't pay by wire transfer - only visa/mc. Also, if you're in a hurry, do not order items that aren't in stock.
Especially Tangband is a bit of a b@stard to deal with for suppliers. They have very large minimum order quantities, so while they have a large catalog, most suppliers will carry only a limited selection. If a particular Tangband item is not in stock at your supplier, you may be in for a lengthy wait.
Especially Tangband is a bit of a b@stard to deal with for suppliers. They have very large minimum order quantities, so while they have a large catalog, most suppliers will carry only a limited selection. If a particular Tangband item is not in stock at your supplier, you may be in for a lengthy wait.
Thats from the past. We pay by digital wire transfer and we even get refunds if I cancel my order On the spot. When i accidentally screwed up and ordered the wrong driver I asked to change it to the right one and the extra few bucks were discarded. Can't say with the almost a thousand bucks I've spent there that I'm at all disappointed. If it were so bad I wouldn't order there.
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