I'm currently building speakers cabinets made from MDF which are near completion so I'm starting to work through what finish I wish to put on them. They are for in home use for stereo listening.
Current thoughts are a simple flat black finish which would suit the look I'm after.
Initial research says, generally flat paint is great as hiding imperfections but not durable, collects dust and cleaning can wear its surface, thus has some challenges.
One approach considered but lengthy is;
- 1st coat, enamel based primer (which I have on hand)
- 2 coats of flat black enamel applied with roller and sanded between coats
- a final coat (or 2) of flat polyurethane clear for durability.
There's alot of steps and curing time here.
Are there easier approaches to achieve a flat durable finish?
Current thoughts are a simple flat black finish which would suit the look I'm after.
Initial research says, generally flat paint is great as hiding imperfections but not durable, collects dust and cleaning can wear its surface, thus has some challenges.
One approach considered but lengthy is;
- 1st coat, enamel based primer (which I have on hand)
- 2 coats of flat black enamel applied with roller and sanded between coats
- a final coat (or 2) of flat polyurethane clear for durability.
There's alot of steps and curing time here.
Are there easier approaches to achieve a flat durable finish?
This works a treat. Hard and durable especially on MDF and chip board.
Hammerite Smooth Metal Paint Black 750ml | Metal Paints | Screwfix.com
Hammerite Smooth Metal Paint Black 750ml | Metal Paints | Screwfix.com
I handed over my steel speaker stands to a metal frame manufacturer.
They applied a melted plastic finish that has turned out to be pretty durable.
I think they heated the stands in an oven and then electrostatically sprayed the plastic power onto them where it melted on the hot steel surface.
Not suitable for an MDF box.
They applied a melted plastic finish that has turned out to be pretty durable.
I think they heated the stands in an oven and then electrostatically sprayed the plastic power onto them where it melted on the hot steel surface.
Not suitable for an MDF box.
An over-kill finish would be truck bed-liner. You can throw bricks in your pickup in Florida sun and it still looks OK. With lesser abuse it should look perfect forever. There's DIY spray and Pro PaintShop versions. You might get a discount if you can leave the boxes at the painter until he has another job in the same color (usually Basic Black, but others are available).
> heated the stands in an oven and then electrostatically sprayed the plastic
"Powder Coat". New in the last decade or so; very common in the last 5 years. They clean the metal the usual ways (solvent, maybe heat), hang on a grounded rack and spray plastic powder with a charged-up gun, then put them in a hot oven so the plastic melts and sets. Done well, it withstands life under an off-road vehicle (I have also seen it peel in a few salty winters). It used to be only Gloss Black and "sorta chromey", but now there are hundreds of eye-dropping colors in the books, and ordering a sexy color is not very expensive (like custom car paint).
> heated the stands in an oven and then electrostatically sprayed the plastic
"Powder Coat". New in the last decade or so; very common in the last 5 years. They clean the metal the usual ways (solvent, maybe heat), hang on a grounded rack and spray plastic powder with a charged-up gun, then put them in a hot oven so the plastic melts and sets. Done well, it withstands life under an off-road vehicle (I have also seen it peel in a few salty winters). It used to be only Gloss Black and "sorta chromey", but now there are hundreds of eye-dropping colors in the books, and ordering a sexy color is not very expensive (like custom car paint).
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Powder coat has been around a while.
Not for MDF though - needs to be conductive for electrostatic attraction.
Like most finishes it doesn't like sharp edges - that would make it peel when exposed to the weather.
For outdoor use it should be applied over hot dip zinc galvanize or wet spray primer.
For MDF, as an alternative to paint how about stick-back vinyl?
Not for MDF though - needs to be conductive for electrostatic attraction.
Like most finishes it doesn't like sharp edges - that would make it peel when exposed to the weather.
For outdoor use it should be applied over hot dip zinc galvanize or wet spray primer.
For MDF, as an alternative to paint how about stick-back vinyl?
I've tried flack black for the backs of my speakers. What a disaster. 
Looks great fresh, but as you mentioned, doesn't stay that way long. Picks up every smudge, fingerprint, dust, dirt, whatever - like a magnet. I ended up just going to semi-gloss
Very interested to see what you come up with.
Looks great fresh, but as you mentioned, doesn't stay that way long. Picks up every smudge, fingerprint, dust, dirt, whatever - like a magnet. I ended up just going to semi-glossVery interested to see what you come up with.
Flat-flat black is easy to blemish because it´s kinda soft, glossy is hard but shows fingerprints, intermediate "semi glossy/satin" surface is the best of both worlds.
FWIW, paint base is usually the same, just glossy has a slower evaporating solvent so drops have time to attract each other and sort of "self level" by capillarity/surface tension, "flat" black (or any colour) has addes a small percentage of "flattening compound", usually finely ground "Industrial" Talcum or Gypsum so ther "break the surface" ; big problem is you scratch that surface (even with your nails) and partially expose talcum/gypsum grains, so surface becomes grayish instead of black or scratch becomes "polished" and slightly blacker than surroundings, in any cases scratches or bumps are way more noticeable than they should be otherwise.
I mix my own paints (for front panels, speaker frames, cbinet back panels, etc.) and found a "magic proportion" if you wish, where I add only enough "flattening compound" to regular glossy paint to turn it *slightly* dull, or "satin".
About 1/4 of the amount needed for "full dull".
Result is the best compromise.
You sometimes can find such grade of paint premixed in a can, ask store clerk for "the black satin paint used to paint trucks and such".
Here´s a discussion on such paints and they mention a few brands and how to apply them.
Just avoid the last clearcoat some mention, because it defeats the "satin" idea, adds gloss on top.
Projects - Satin Black Paint? What's the best option??? | The H.A.M.B.
FWIW I make my own "flattening agent": just a light paste of Industrial Talcum (can use cosmetic grade of course ) mixed with some paint Thinner, make certain you have no lumps.
Add just a little and test the paint on some disposable surface.
Of curse the premixed one can be used straight, just stirr it well first because "flattening agent" (now you know what it´s made of ) sinks to the bottom of the can on storage.
FWIW, paint base is usually the same, just glossy has a slower evaporating solvent so drops have time to attract each other and sort of "self level" by capillarity/surface tension, "flat" black (or any colour) has addes a small percentage of "flattening compound", usually finely ground "Industrial" Talcum or Gypsum so ther "break the surface" ; big problem is you scratch that surface (even with your nails) and partially expose talcum/gypsum grains, so surface becomes grayish instead of black or scratch becomes "polished" and slightly blacker than surroundings, in any cases scratches or bumps are way more noticeable than they should be otherwise.
I mix my own paints (for front panels, speaker frames, cbinet back panels, etc.) and found a "magic proportion" if you wish, where I add only enough "flattening compound" to regular glossy paint to turn it *slightly* dull, or "satin".
About 1/4 of the amount needed for "full dull".
Result is the best compromise.
You sometimes can find such grade of paint premixed in a can, ask store clerk for "the black satin paint used to paint trucks and such".
Here´s a discussion on such paints and they mention a few brands and how to apply them.
Just avoid the last clearcoat some mention, because it defeats the "satin" idea, adds gloss on top.
Projects - Satin Black Paint? What's the best option??? | The H.A.M.B.
FWIW I make my own "flattening agent": just a light paste of Industrial Talcum (can use cosmetic grade of course
) mixed with some paint Thinner, make certain you have no lumps.Add just a little and test the paint on some disposable surface.
Of curse the premixed one can be used straight, just stirr it well first because "flattening agent" (now you know what it´s made of
) sinks to the bottom of the can on storage.
I recently bought a mixer from a speaker-builder who built a roadcase for it out of scrap plywood. He painted the plywood in Duratex. It looks fantastic, and hasn't chipped yet when I throw it in the back of the van.
Acry-Tech DuraTex Black 1 Quart Roller Grade Cabinet Texture Coating Kit with Textured 3" Roller
Acry-Tech DuraTex Black 1 Quart Roller Grade Cabinet Texture Coating Kit with Textured 3" Roller
FWIW, there is powder coating for MDF as well - as with metal, not something generally affordable to the DIYer
Powder Coated MDF or Wood Components
Powder Coated MDF or Wood Components
I just painted a wood box to hold a soundbar with Rustoleum black satin enamel and two weeks later it still has a strong chemical smell. Wife refuses to deal with it, carried it outside herself. It was what I had on hand, if I were buying something to do it, I would probably look at some of the elastomeric aerosol paints like SEM Color Coat. Lots of color choices. It would, of course, be somewhat "experimentational."
Interesting - thanks. Was thinking about using that stuff on a very challenged Leslie cabinet. Will make sure I use it in the garage.
If you're looking for spray paint, their Pro line puts out a lot of solids, and definitely should not be used indoors -- but it's good to go after a few hours from a VOC POV. It's quite hard, also. I've used it both in my cargo van interior and to paint some video camera mounts I made for commercial purposes (small scale prototypes).
If you're looking for spray paint, their Pro line puts out a lot of solids, and definitely should not be used indoors -- but it's good to go after a few hours from a VOC POV. It's quite hard, also. I've used it both in my cargo van interior and to paint some video camera mounts I made for commercial purposes (small scale prototypes).
I have used the same process, except for the final coat, I apply a clear satin or low gloss finish -- also with a roller. As you note, the roller gives a slight texture, which tends to hide imperfections, and the clear coat can be dusted or wiped with a cleaner occasionally.
Attachments
Gives excellent results on aluminum sheet. I have used the spray can version for my amps. I was under the impression that the stuff in the can as pictured had to be diluted and sprayed on not brushed.
Best way to cure paint is to leave the part that is painted in the hot sun.
nash
Thanks to all for your replies.
I should be painting in a few weeks so will post results, I'm just finishing the front panels of my cabs.
I've done 2 coats of oil based primer, which smells for a week.
Based on my paint stores advise, I'll try out a Dulux product in a can called Duramax in Flat Black which is a fast drying enamel. The store claims its superiour to rust-oleum. They also said stick clear of interior paint in regards to durability.
I'll do a test of this and see test it for marks, fingerprints before deciding on a final clear coat.
Will post in a few weeks.
I should be painting in a few weeks so will post results, I'm just finishing the front panels of my cabs.
I've done 2 coats of oil based primer, which smells for a week.
Based on my paint stores advise, I'll try out a Dulux product in a can called Duramax in Flat Black which is a fast drying enamel. The store claims its superiour to rust-oleum. They also said stick clear of interior paint in regards to durability.
I'll do a test of this and see test it for marks, fingerprints before deciding on a final clear coat.
Will post in a few weeks.
HI there,
I work with paints for a living, and matt finishes are amongst the hardest to keep looking pristine, as they are practically impossible to touch-up satisfactorily. Gloss finishes are easy for spot repairs, where the edges can be polished in, but matts usually require a complete respray. There is no problem with the actual durability of most paints (a matt finish is a conventional paint containing extra matting agents), but that the finish is so intolerant of marking, especially greases which change its reflectivity.
2-pack acrylics and polyurethanes are amongst the toughest and hardest finishes, but it is the optical properties of the matt finish which is the problem, since there is no way to restore it after damage, although greases will simply wash off. Be prepared, whatever paint chemistry you use, for a finish which will not look at its best for very long unless it remains completely untouched.
Cheers, Carl.
I work with paints for a living, and matt finishes are amongst the hardest to keep looking pristine, as they are practically impossible to touch-up satisfactorily. Gloss finishes are easy for spot repairs, where the edges can be polished in, but matts usually require a complete respray. There is no problem with the actual durability of most paints (a matt finish is a conventional paint containing extra matting agents), but that the finish is so intolerant of marking, especially greases which change its reflectivity.
2-pack acrylics and polyurethanes are amongst the toughest and hardest finishes, but it is the optical properties of the matt finish which is the problem, since there is no way to restore it after damage, although greases will simply wash off. Be prepared, whatever paint chemistry you use, for a finish which will not look at its best for very long unless it remains completely untouched.
Cheers, Carl.
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