Did you read the very first post in the thread?
It has links to two posts in the thread that contain attachments with the parts lists for two different setups. [Feb 2013 and Feb 2015 updates to the first post]
Or click on "search this thread" toward the upper right of the page, and search for "Parts List".
Cheers,
B B
Hi Jano,
Sorry for the delay in answering, failed to get any new post notifications.
Thanks for the comments.
I don't have any professional tools just basic home diy stuff. The acrylic discs were cut using a router and home made circle jig. The hubs were cut using a standard 1 1/2" hole saw. The framework that sits on top of the uc unit cut with a hand wood saw for thin bits and the router for the 20mm side rails. All the bits are "glued" together using Weldon 4. This is the stuff aquarium makers use to put together acrylic tanks. Most of the acrylic was from my scraps bin. The gears are standard grade module 1 gears purchased somewhere on eBay. They were one of the more expensive bits at about £5 each.
I haven't had much time to build more bits. I'm also building rinse and drying cycle machines. As a batch of cleaning solution isn't exactly cheap l am going to wait until all the bits are made before I start experimentation.
During my one test clean and play with the cleaner I set the temperature to 40°C. When the temperature light went out I stirred the water then checked the temperature with a thermometer. Bang on 40. And it stayed there. After some of the horror stories about temperature control of these machines I was pleased with this result.
I'm off on my travels for a week or so, so no building for a while.
Niffy
Thanks, I was now able to find the parts list. Unfortunately, it seems a bit too long and involving for what I am looking for. So I have just ordered these parts from ebay for around $25. When they come I will nail it to a simple wooden frame.
0.6 rpm 12V motor:
Reversible Multiple Geared Motor High Torque Turbo Worm DC 12V GW370 2-100RPM US | eBay
5mm X 300 mm threaded rod:
M4-M20 Round Head A2 Stainless Steel 304 Fully Threaded Rod - Retail Pack | eBay
Rubber tubing to connect the rod and motor:
5/16in(8mm) OD 3/16in(4.8mm) ID USA Made Latex Rubber Tubing BLACK 1ft (#604) | eBay
DC power female connector cable
DC Power Female Connector Cable Pigtail Plug Wire | eBay
Hopefully everything fits up nicely. Ill start with wing nuts to secure the records. I will use a generic 12V power supply which
That's a lot of wing nut spinning up and down a 300mm rod if you want to do more than one record at a time. You'll quickly look for alternatives I bet.
Good luck with your build.
Cheers
B B
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That's right! Any suggestions for alternatives than wing nuts? I saw someone used hockey pucks with a hole drilled inside for an interference fit. Anything I can use from home made stuff ? Or maybe magnets?
I've made combo label protector/dividers from large cork rounds (stoppers in my parts list or coasters), and have also used a 4.25" hole saw to cut dividers from rubber anti-fatigue mats and different types of foam.
Using vinyl (or rubberized) magnetic sheet is an intriguing idea. You could use the peel and stick variety to glue to almost any type of core material and have the magnets hold the records in place with on one each side of the LP. Round, 4" diameter electrical junction box covers also work. Most come with a rubber gasket of some sort that can be used to help protect the record label.
Best,
B B
Using vinyl (or rubberized) magnetic sheet is an intriguing idea. You could use the peel and stick variety to glue to almost any type of core material and have the magnets hold the records in place with on one each side of the LP. Round, 4" diameter electrical junction box covers also work. Most come with a rubber gasket of some sort that can be used to help protect the record label.
Best,
B B
wet play was very popular in the 80s and does reduce surface noise. The odd thing is that all reports are that, once wet played, a record is ruined for dry playing. There is a thread discussing this 'reducing record surface noise'. Certainly for records where there is damage rather than just dirt it is a last resort. And there is the added benefit that it damps the fundamental cartridge resonance at LF (8-12Hz).
well for aluminium cantilevers you have a nice protective coat of aluminium oxide. What are the 'other problems'.
Btw anyone with an evening to waste can read this thread off vinyl engine. https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22360 . Some interesting meaurements, a whole heap of conjecture. Just like here really
Btw anyone with an evening to waste can read this thread off vinyl engine. https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22360 . Some interesting meaurements, a whole heap of conjecture. Just like here really
BB, whilst I appreciate this thread should not be pulled off topic is DOES open up something that possibly should be discussed. Which is when NOT to clean a record. There are measurements that show the friction increasing when you wet clean a record. So on new clean vinyl (depending on formulation) you could make things worse. Audibly worse? That depends .
.
Even if you try and massage it this way it is still OT, though. The thread is about how to build US record cleaners. Not pros and cons. Feel free to start your own thread on that topic.
Verify the voltage from your power supply and make sure it is DC not AC voltage.