Some of my observations on speaker cables affecting the sound

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I was accused for not being serious. Here my second attempt.

He was, more or less, right.
Master Jedi, you sure can read mind without knowing they guy.


Other things being equal, more inductance will reduce high frequencies. In most cases you won't notice, though.
I have dog hearing.


You noticed a difference between two different 8in cables? Are you serious?
They come in different color.


You want the cable series impedance to be similar to or less than the amplifier output impedance, much less than the speaker impedance, and not varying too much with frequency. An 8in length of almost anything conductive will do this. Similarly, you want the shunt impedance to be much higher than the speaker impedance. Almost any insulator will do this. Hence copper in PVC is fine for speaker cables; mains house wiring cable is about the cheapest way to buy this, but it is not very flexible.
I think the difference becomes more apparent after about 5in.


Silver is certainly bright - when you look at it. When you use it as a conductor for audio frequencies it is remarkably similar to copper.
Color alone can change the sound.


Very slightly higher conductance, so very slightly lower resistance - negligibly so. No difference in inductance and capacitance, as these are determined by cable geometry, not conductor metal (assuming not ferromagnetic).
Well you just offended 99% of the oxygen population.


Not possible in this universe, as we can't speed up light.
Yes, it's called dark energy.


That is possible, although it would be a strange design.
Audiophile is stranger than strange.

I think if you actually do some sums instead of repeating old wive's tales gleaned from the internet you will find that short audio cables don't resonate at anything like audio frequencies so they can't cause the effects you describe.
Maxwell equations work all the way down to DC.


Believing in good cables is a faith position based on internet chatter, not facts. Believing that one needs a high resolution system to tell the difference is a fundamentalist faith position, propagated to ensure that the faithful keep the faith.
"I am running on faith".


You may be confusing the highly engineered and rather expensive RF probes used at GHz frequencies and 50 ohm impedance for things like wideband oscilloscopes and vector network analysers, with the cheap piece of wire you need for a short audio connection.
Where I come from, every in. matters.
 
Maxwell equations work all the way down to DC.

Yes, they do. They'll also tell you that at anything close to audio frequencies, nothing is happening. Flippant remarks like that won't get you far here. I'm a Physics grad, so I've derived the equations you refer to from first principles. I know what they are and why they work, and I know for a fact I'm not close to some of the guys you're talking to here.

Your observations are fine, when taken within their limitations. Limitation #1: you're human. So are the rest of us. As a human, expectation bias is a huge factor in deciding if you like something. Have you done any blind testing, to remove such biases?

Chris
 
you made me spit coffee on my keyboard :)

You write it as if they did not affect speaker frequency response

In a sense, that's correct, they are imaginary, though in a mathematical rather than colloquial sense (it's too bad that imaginary numbers were given that name, it confuses people; perhaps "quadrature" might have been a better term). Of course they affect frequency response.

Fred Davis and Dick Greiner pretty much covered all of this 35 years ago. There's no magic here, the boring old engineering answers are experimentally correct. The OP can measure frequency response and see if his wires are altering it in any significant way. If not, he can look for a psychological explanation if he's actually interested in what's going on.
 
andy2 said:
All I am going to say is inductance and capacitance are not "real" impedance. They store and release energy.
The series inductance will store energy but when it releases it can potentially spike up to higher potential which will create higher harmonics at high frequency.
You seem to know the words, but I am not entirely sure that you know what they mean. A cable cannot generate harmonics, unless it has very poor connectors on the end. Yes, inductance and capacitance are not (mathematically) real; they are (mathematically) imaginary and so just as (reality) real.

The same principle is used to make up convert voltage regulator where you get higher output voltage than your input voltage.
You may be confusing higher potential with higher harmonics.

While it's true that the series inductance and shunt capacitance will eventually form a low pass filter, but before it can get there, there will be ringing like overshoot and undershoot.
It is true that in the approach to a filter corner frequency you get significant phase shift well before there is any significant amplitude change, but in a speaker cable (especially an 8in one!) you are nowhere near any corner frequency so there is nothing of any consequence going on.

It seems like you're trying to be funny.
I am being very serious, but in my own funny way.

Although end connection is important, I don't think a good or lose connection will fundamentally change the sound. A good or bad connection can't change the sound characteristic like harsher treble, more sibilance, loose bass ...
Bad connections are about the only thing about a cable which can change the sound. OK, there is something else: a really bad cable can let in lots of RF interference and that can change the sound via intermodulation. To be this bad a cable has to be very very cheap, very expensive, or DIY. Curiously, some people actually like the resultant sound.

A "bad" amp could mean a lot of things. A good sounding amp may be sensitive to cable impedance which you say is bad, while a good amp on paper may sound pretty "bad" to my ears. I suspect a lot of mass market Japanese receivers have pretty good specs on paper but we all know they don't sound very good.

Conrad Johnson preamps are known for being sensitive to high capacitance interconnects, yet we all know how good they sound.
As a general rule, the more fussy an item is about cables the worse is its electronic design. This remains true however expensive or popular it is. Some people even believe the opposite: that cable fussiness is a sign of 'fine discrimination'! Of course, people who design bad circuits are happy for this misconception to remain popular; some of them may even believe it themselves.

You noticed a difference between two different 8in cables? Are you serious?
They come in different color.
Your sense of humour seems to work in a different way from mine.
 
We seem to be talking about internal wiring in the speaker cabinets, from binding posts to crossover and from crossover to driver terminals. Wire lengths mentioned have been 2 feet, 8 inches, and 4 inches. Let's assume worst case, 2 feet. What is the resistance/capacitance/inductance of the wire? Blue Jeans don't seem to mention the electrical characteristics of their "house brand" wire on their web site, though I'm sure they would tell you if you asked, but I see they also sell Belden 5T00UP. The data sheet for that cable says it has 0.15uH/ft, 26pF/ft, and 1.02R/1000ft. Now, what are the values of the resistors, capacitors, and inductors in your crossover network? What is the tolerance of those components? Would the lumped values of the cables fall within the tolerance ranges of those components? Assuming the components are exactly the value labeled, how much does the cable change the transfer characteristic of the crossover network? Now assume your wire has twice the R/L/C of the Belden cable, or half. Feel free to vary each of them independently; how much does the frequency response of the network vary?

Until you have answered these questions you are just guessing.
 
Although end connection is important, I don't think a good or lose connection will fundamentally change the sound. A good or bad connection can't change the sound characteristic like harsher treble, more sibilance, loose bass ...
I've actually observed on an oscilloscope the effects of a bad connection due to a mechanical connection device. Until there was enough current flow to clear (re-establish) the connection, to burn off the oxidation and molecular migration, there was a drastic dynamic range expansion effect. The connection was VERY non-linear in that way. That could cause a harsher or more sibilant perception of the sound.

In this case it was an inter-stage relay (just ahead of the power amp), but I think it's a similar situation. Once current flow cleared the connection, I would have to wait a day before it would do it again. This oxidation and migration would actually grow back in a day. The relay contacts weren't well sealed. It had a loose fitting plastic snap on cover, which apparently wasn't good enough, since the amp was used in the kitchen of a restaurant where various fumes and humidity varied all over the place day after day.
 
Bottom line: I went to the trouble of finding gold alloy Banana plugs I could solder wires to, not just use the set screw types (more common). And I use 16AWG AC line cord bought for 50 cents a foot at the hardware store. The cables are about 12 feet long. My Engineering background tells me this is fine, and should stay good for many many years. I may lose a few watts out of 120 watts driving my speakers, due to the resistance of the cables, and I don't care, because it doesn't cause any significant increase in distortion.
 
We have relays in products which we specify a minimum load of 5mA. Less than that can result in oxidation and intermittent contact. If you are going to run low current, special plating alloy or gold is necessary.

I still have my 20' long 14AWG speaker wires from college. They still work fine with 96dB/W-M speakers and a 56W/channel amp. Loss is minimal into 8ohm nominal speakers.

I switched to 12AWG for my 100W/channel amp downstairs as it has lower output Z than the amp upstairs which is 35 years old. Although I can't hear any difference from the 14AWG wire.
 
Some of my observations on speaker cables affecting the sound
Lately I've been playing around with trying different speaker cables given some of what I've had at hands and my own intuitive conclusions. I always knew speaker cables make differences but it's interesting how much different it could make. Speaker cables have been controversial within the diy communities and even with the professional magazines. I remember reading a magazine article and the author went so far to saying that cables probably one single area where it gives the audio industry a bad name due to use of and this is his exact word "snake oil" marketing tactics being used. I once had an argument with a CalTech graduated guy at work who actually is one of the very smart person I know and told me that cables make no difference or at least so small that it makes no difference. Well who's the daddy now.

Anyway, I've been building speakers for about 10 years, and naturally with limited resources I always bought the cheapest cables for speakers for my budgets. I've tried the CAT5 diy and also using foil Goertz inductors wound awhile back and for what they are, they are OK, nothing bad or offensive but I always found they lacked resolution and dynamic but I never really tried to understand critically why although I sort of know why vaguely. A few years later, I then bought a pair of 8in. 10AWG Blue Jeans cables and I noticed an increase in resolution although not drastically but it’s there. My system has a rather warm and somewhat slow bass relatively, and I always thought it had to do with my speakers and the Conrad Johnson Preamp. Even with that, the sound is rather pleasant and nothing is really offensive. I also bought a pair of Blue Jeans 12AWG cables and when I tried it on the same system, to my surprise the sound is quite different. Gone are the slow bass and warmth. The sound now is quite forward with brighter treble. The bass is faster although with less perceived weight. It's like my speakers have had a different voicing altogether. Since they are both Blue Jeans cables, I was very surprised. Although one pair is 10AWG and the other 12AWG, I didn't think it would make that difference.

I then examined the constructions of the cables and they are quite different. The 10AWG is made of a lot of thinly and very fine strand coper fiber whereas the 12AWG pair is made of much thicker stands and there are quite few stands. Based on the dimension alone and everything being equal without knowing the actual quality of the coper, the 10AWG pair will have much lower inductance vs. the 12AWG, but on the flip side, again everything being equal, the 10AWG will have much higher capacitance. With so many strands, the air gaps between those strands will create an dielectric effect hence the increase in capacitance. With some generalization, more inductance will favor higher frequency hence the brighter sound. The 10AWG with higher capacitance will favor low freq. vs. high freq.

I then cut the 8in. 10AWG cable in two halves – now it’s 4in. cable. Now, the sound is still pleasant but gains more speed at the bass, but I think the inherent characteristic is still there that it’s somewhat on the warm side but only with less of it.

I often hear from others that certain cables will be either brighter or warmer. My DIY CAT5 due to its construction will inherently have much more capacitance hence the lack of dynamic. Likewise my Goertz foil inductor DIY cables due to the flat coper will probably have higher cap. than inductance. So I guess the trick for making a neutral cable is having the balance of capacitance and inductance, but what is the balance, what is the appropriate ratio, and to be honest I am not sure. My guess Is it will depend on the amplifier output impedance and the overall impedance of the speakers. It will be tricky, but my guess is there is a range beyond which there will be resonance and ringing. So does that mean that all you need is to have a good balance of inductance and capacitance? As I mentioned in the previous sentence, if both are quite high then there will be ringing and resonance. I’ve read that some cable manufacturers literatures that some try to optimize for lower inductance but if may be done in favor of increase capacitance.

Case in point: I bought a pair of Supra 12AWG cables from Madisound and I do like it. On Madisound Supra website there is a nice article about the R/L/C of the cables which talks about how Supra optimizes the cable construction to favor less inductance, and I do find the bass could be a bit faster.
The other components is the resistance. I think resistance is always bad. It seems the lower is always better. Although if the cable is excessively high inductance and or capacitance, the higher resistance can help damping the resonance, which makes the sound less aggressive at the expense of dynamic. No cables will be perfect. Given each manufacture technique, the coper will have some inherent self inductance and capacitance and resistance. You have to find the right balance. Some coper will need to have finer stand whereas other type of cables can do with thicker stands. Silver are known for having a bright treble. I guess silver although has higher conductance, low resistance, but also higher inductance vs. capacitance. Even if your cables have very low both capacitance and inductance, but if the capacitance is a lot lower than the sound will be on the bright side of neutral. Well at least this is what I think.

The internal cables of my speakers were pretty the cheapest I could find. I always use the one I bought from Frys for a few bucks. My DIY speakers are of three way and I always found the bass was somewhat weak and lagging like there was some type of delay. I always thought that because of my transmission line not tuned correctly or the SEAS 10in. not strong enough. What surprising is there is only a foot of cables from the speakers binding post to the bass Xovers and another foot from the output of the Xover to the 10in. bass driver. How can 2 feet of cable make such difference? I then replace them with the 12AWG Supra I got from Madisound, and the bass is much deeper and much more integrated to the mid and treble. It has transformed the entire sound. Who could have guessed that two feet of cables can make so much difference? Either the Supra has magic or the stuffs I got from Fry’s was the absolute worst. The only thing I wish from the Supra is slighter faster response on the bass.

As long as we are on the same subject, when I shielded my tweeter xover, I found the sound gained more focus. Although I did a few other things, I don’t know how much of it came from the shielding.

Anyway, I thought I would post some of my findings here. My opinions could be wrong. It would be a lot easier if I started with some decent cables, but my budget is limited so I had to prioritize.

Comedy gold. Another candidate for the list.
 
We have relays in products which we specify a minimum load of 5mA. Less than that can result in oxidation and intermittent contact. If you are going to run low current, special plating alloy or gold is necessary.

I still have my 20' long 14AWG speaker wires from college. They still work fine with 96dB/W-M speakers and a 56W/channel amp. Loss is minimal into 8ohm nominal speakers.

I switched to 12AWG for my 100W/channel amp downstairs as it has lower output Z than the amp upstairs which is 35 years old. Although I can't hear any difference from the 14AWG wire.

I used to have a hard time telling differences from cables and interconnects until I was able to get a decent high resolution system in a proper setup.
 
andy2 said:
I used to have a hard time telling differences from cables and interconnects until I was able to get a decent high resolution system in a proper setup.
If you can genuinely tell the difference between interconnects then this means one or more of the following is true:
1. some of the interconnects were faulty or so badly designed that they were failing as simple pieces of wire (N.B. tests have shown that even a banana is good enough to act as an interconnect, or was it mud (or both?))
2. the source is badly engineered and has too high output impedance
3. the amplifier is badly engineered and has no input RF filter
4. your system grounding has problems
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.