It's tempting on cost basis but i avoid using cat5 after previous experience of cat4 sounding dull. For short runs the Neotech wire is well worth while.
I've been using Van Damme 4mm speaker cable for a while now but i'm thinking of trying some thinner solid core, bass can at times get a bit much (and a tad loose) in my new place. I struggled to find affordable solid core cable here in the UK that's not domestic twin and earth mains cable (tried that before and was not impressed) but i just came across a Jantzen speaker cable which is affordable high purity solid core stuff. I might get some to try with the FE's quite soon.
006-0080: Jantzen Speaker Cable, 2 x AWG 17, 1 metre | Hifi Collective
I've been using Van Damme 4mm speaker cable for a while now but i'm thinking of trying some thinner solid core, bass can at times get a bit much (and a tad loose) in my new place. I struggled to find affordable solid core cable here in the UK that's not domestic twin and earth mains cable (tried that before and was not impressed) but i just came across a Jantzen speaker cable which is affordable high purity solid core stuff. I might get some to try with the FE's quite soon.
006-0080: Jantzen Speaker Cable, 2 x AWG 17, 1 metre | Hifi Collective
The Amtrans twisted pair that Dario suggested looks good, i might try some in my DCB1.
This looks decent for interconnects, good price too Neotech NEI-3004, UP-OCC Copper Interconnect Cable | Hifi Collective
This looks decent for interconnects, good price too Neotech NEI-3004, UP-OCC Copper Interconnect Cable | Hifi Collective
The braided socks will add capacitance, a twisted pair inside a metal case is already well insulated.
Use instead the Mogami cable I've indicated if you want a screen.
The signal is two wires: Signal Flow and Signal Return.
Both MUST be connected for the signal circuit to be complete.
If you use a coaxial cable for the signal connection, then the shield is the Signal Return and it MUST be connected for the signal circuit to be complete.
If you use a screened/shielded twisted pair, then the two cores are the two wire signal connection.
The screen/shield has absolutely nothing to do with the signal circuit. In a balanced impedance connection, the screen/shield is NOT connected to any part of the signal circuit. The screen/shield goes to chassis at both ends.
Where it's relevant you simply repeated what I've already wrote...
Your comments on balanced cabling are not relevant on the My_Ref.
The balanced cable in this case is used as an unbalanced one so that one of the two signal wires is used for signal and the other for signal return.
In such case the shield can be connected to signal return or chassis.
Absolutely, because in this case the balanced cable is used as an unbalanced one.
Go back and read what you posted.
You said
That's the crux. You were advising how to make an unbalanced connection. Yet you referred ONLY to using balanced cable !
Without the important distinction, Members could misread your advice as meaning that any balanced cable connection can have the screen/shield connection to the signal return.
That interpretation of your misleading advice is completely wrong.
It is your misleading statement that leads to that incorrect interpretation.
You said
and omitted that you were actually describing a unbalanced connection.
That's the crux. You were advising how to make an unbalanced connection. Yet you referred ONLY to using balanced cable !
Without the important distinction, Members could misread your advice as meaning that any balanced cable connection can have the screen/shield connection to the signal return.
That interpretation of your misleading advice is completely wrong.
It is your misleading statement that leads to that incorrect interpretation.
Last edited:
Andrew, while in general you're right is also true that everything must be read in its context... we can't reinvent the wheel each time...
The My_Ref has only unbalanced connections and this is a thread about building it so it's implicit that we're not talking about balanced connections.
Seems good but it's not suitable, too much thin.
According specs it's rated up to 50V, the My_Ref could arrive to over 70V.
This depends on whether the 50V is RMS. If it is, it'll be fine. It's worth checking with Jantzen.
I'd have thought the mention of RCA should have been enough of an indicator
What do you think of the Jantzen speaker cable i linked to Dario? I was thinking it might do ok in runs of 3 metres.
70Vpk gives an equivalent power into 8ohms of 306W
We all know that is impossible.
The maximum output voltage of a damaged chipamp could be a supply rail voltage, i.e. ~38Vdc
The maximum signal voltage at the output would be ~25Vac, if the load was disconnected.
50V rated cable for a chipamp is OK provided you don't go bridged.
1.15mm diameter is ~1sqmm.
1sqmm is OK for very short (<1m) runs into normal sensitivity speaker/s and OK for medium runs (1m to 2m) into high sensitivity speaker/s.
Jantzen obviously agree since they advertise it as a speaker cable!
Last edited:
I have used similar cross section for both internal and external cabling.
But I have a rule: keep the speaker cables short and use longer interconnects.
I have even used smaller wire for mid and treble duty where the Q altering effect of speaker cables is not an issue.
Take Jantzen's 1sqmm of speaker wire. At a conservative 3A/sqmm you have a continuous rating for the cable of 3Arms.
That gives an equivalent speaker input of 70W continuous. Allowing for +10dB peaks, that indicates that 1sqmm is OK for upto 700W speakers, if added resistance is not an issue for Q alteration.
But I have a rule: keep the speaker cables short and use longer interconnects.
I have even used smaller wire for mid and treble duty where the Q altering effect of speaker cables is not an issue.
Take Jantzen's 1sqmm of speaker wire. At a conservative 3A/sqmm you have a continuous rating for the cable of 3Arms.
That gives an equivalent speaker input of 70W continuous. Allowing for +10dB peaks, that indicates that 1sqmm is OK for upto 700W speakers, if added resistance is not an issue for Q alteration.
I once had a setup using DNM solid core speaker cable with a 55W KT88 valve amp. That stuff was only 0.8mm diameter, it worked well and seemed to tighten up that amps quite loose bass. It didn't work well with my transistor amps, probably due in part to the length at that time (9 meter runs).
The updated version - DNM Products - Details of Solid Core Cables
Ideally i would like to try some solid core cable around 1.5mm dia (not twin & earth) but i couldn't find anything suitable. DNM now sell a heavier version which is 1.3mm but at almost £30 per meter it's not cheap.
Wish i could just place a mono block behind each speaker and use very short good quality cables but she wont have it.
The updated version - DNM Products - Details of Solid Core Cables
Ideally i would like to try some solid core cable around 1.5mm dia (not twin & earth) but i couldn't find anything suitable. DNM now sell a heavier version which is 1.3mm but at almost £30 per meter it's not cheap.
Wish i could just place a mono block behind each speaker and use very short good quality cables but she wont have it.
Last edited:
I have not used mains cable. It is not twisted, but it is fairly close coupled. The insulation is quite thick and that reduces the capcitance a bit compared to very thin insulation.
You could strip off the outer+E and make your own twisted pairs. Copper is copper and it will have the same sound effect as any other copper with the same capacitance and inductance values. The dielectric will probably be polyvinyl (PVC) and some will try to convince listerners that using that will impair the sound quality !
But I believe the biggest potential for improving amplifier performance is to shorten the speaker cables. Remove or reduce the reactive effects of the cable from the amplifier's drive requirements.
You could strip off the outer+E and make your own twisted pairs. Copper is copper and it will have the same sound effect as any other copper with the same capacitance and inductance values. The dielectric will probably be polyvinyl (PVC) and some will try to convince listerners that using that will impair the sound quality !
But I believe the biggest potential for improving amplifier performance is to shorten the speaker cables. Remove or reduce the reactive effects of the cable from the amplifier's drive requirements.
Last edited: